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  #21  
Old 29-03-2005, 10:12 PM
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janoskiss (Steve H)
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Quote:
Originally posted by slice of heaven As Astro_south has pointed out the normal configuration is 3 push-pull screws.
I think he meant that there are 3 pull screws (collimating) plus 3 push screws (locking). The springs serve as temporary "push" support while collimating.

Yes, stiffer springs would make the locking screws redundant. The stock springs are probably a compromise between catering for weak fingers and supporting the mirror. I do like the psychological "job done"/"nail in coffin" security that the locking screws give me. (But as we've already established, I needs professional help.)
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  #22  
Old 29-03-2005, 10:18 PM
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ballaratdragons (Ken)
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Does anyone have a photo of their non GS collimation screw system? Please show us GS owners an alternative.
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  #23  
Old 29-03-2005, 10:28 PM
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You might be right Steve. My mistake. I read it quickly between kids stuff. My 2 other newts have 3 single push/pull bolts for adjusting.

Laurie, Distortion is a big concern...Good point

Slice
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  #24  
Old 29-03-2005, 10:30 PM
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BD......No digi camera. Throw the 3 'lock' screws away and thats the setup.
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  #25  
Old 29-03-2005, 10:43 PM
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Ken, I just got my new 2nd hand cheapo camera connected to the puter. Here is the back of a non-GSO (DSE 4.5") reflector:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~jano...irrorhouse.jpg

It's one of the the simplest setups you could have. There are three nuts that do the pulling and three springs that do the pushing. The bolts are fixed to the mirror housing.

Last edited by janoskiss; 29-03-2005 at 10:47 PM.
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  #26  
Old 29-03-2005, 10:49 PM
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ballaratdragons (Ken)
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Thanks Steve,

That's the same set-up as my old 4.25" reflector!
It was easy to collimate. I might have to ditch the lock screws and put in heavy springs and see if that works for a heavier mirror.

Hey, now you have a camera, you can stick a pic in of your scope and one of you in 'Send a Pic of yourself'.
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  #27  
Old 29-03-2005, 10:57 PM
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Ken & all, Not much of a pic. but the 3 collimation screws have very heavy springs fitted, (1" long x 3/4" diam. x 1/8" gauge approx).
Not quite valve springs but close.
As I said before, *bottom them out*, the undo about 1 turn each & collimate from there. Then NIP the lock screws.
I only have the 3 to adj. so this is how I do mine.(without the nip of course). L.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (collimation2.jpg)
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  #28  
Old 30-03-2005, 12:13 AM
slice of heaven
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Well there you go.
Probably a good thing that other thread got lost.
Hope this has lifted the clouds of confusion for some.
The 'lock' screws aren't.
Fit the heavier springs. A couple of dollars isn't much for a proper fix.

Slice
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  #29  
Old 30-03-2005, 12:29 AM
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I think the GSO adjust+lock system is fine and has its advantages over a 'stiffer spring' system. Just need to treat the locking screws with care (like the bolts of a freshly built cylinder head).
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  #30  
Old 30-03-2005, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ballaratdragons
Hey, now you have a camera, you can stick a pic in of your scope and one of you in 'Send a Pic of yourself'.
Done with the latter. The rig will have to wait. I'm having some serious problems with the Dob that need to be fixed or otherwise sorted out. If the problem is as bad as I think it is, you'll see lots of closeup pics.

Last edited by janoskiss; 30-03-2005 at 01:27 AM.
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