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  #21  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:35 PM
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steve000 (Steve)
just a bit obsessed

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Join Date: Jul 2010
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I expect some warp, but the goal is to last 5 years tops. I have some metal plates and if it goes bad fast then I'll use them, too much work for now, more of an experiment than anything.

I bolted everything together today and its done, just gotta seal it then build the cover.
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  #22  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:36 PM
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ZeroID (Brent)
Lost in Space ....

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The good old drill press can be a very useful tool. I do any alignment critical tapping in that.

My pier plate is wood. 2 x 23 mm thick layers of 17 ply epoxied and screwed together then another layer of 7 mm x 5 ply as the mount head base. Varnished and sealed. It hasn't moved at all, perfectly flat and rigid.
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  #23  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:14 PM
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LewisM
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Ply is OK, but NOT quarter sawn treated radiata pine (seeing the wood they use for treated wood is usually "scrub" pine anyway - low quality).

Saw some THICK sheets/plates of clear acrylic/polycarbonate (lexan perhaps?) at Bunnings the other day for $50 for a LARGE sheet, 1.5" thick. Was thinking it would make a GREAT pier head plate - relatively easy to cut and waterproof (though may craze in UV - not sure)
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  #24  
Old 02-04-2013, 01:00 PM
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ZeroID (Brent)
Lost in Space ....

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LewisM View Post
Ply is OK, but NOT quarter sawn treated radiata pine (seeing the wood they use for treated wood is usually "scrub" pine anyway - low quality).

Saw some THICK sheets/plates of clear acrylic/polycarbonate (lexan perhaps?) at Bunnings the other day for $50 for a LARGE sheet, 1.5" thick. Was thinking it would make a GREAT pier head plate - relatively easy to cut and waterproof (though may craze in UV - not sure)
Radiata isn't good for anything really. Cheap fences and cheap housing.

The Polycarbonate (?) would never see sunlight, no problem
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