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  #21  
Old 17-01-2013, 10:40 PM
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John0z (John)
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David,

Hi. This link http://ca.skywatcher.com/upfiles/en_...1316546656.pdf shows how the Synscan is installed into the Heq5. The control panel has two cables on it which is threaded into that tiny hole. To access it, via these instructions, looks like removing the side cover and then the upper cover to get access to the other end of the cables. I will try this with my mount and see how hard it is to remove the control panel - while I have it out, I will work out its schematic, then put it back.

-John
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  #22  
Old 18-01-2013, 09:23 AM
HunterGeo (David)
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Hi John,

I was able to open up those covers but once I got in there, the cabling really is a tight fit, and they don't really like being unplugged from the main board, either. You'll see what I mean when you get to it - good luck!

-Dave
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  #23  
Old 18-01-2013, 09:57 AM
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stardust steve (Steve)
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Have you looked at the connections especially the neg- conn on the back of the barrel of the cig connection. Some of them have really small tabs and the wire might have come off. I noticed this as I was soldering up a power lead.
Hope you find it and hope it's an easy fix

Edit- it appears I am a bit late on the scene, glad to hear its fixed
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  #24  
Old 18-01-2013, 10:52 AM
HunterGeo (David)
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Hi Steve,

Thanks for the thought, but the wiring itself is intact. Replacing the wire (or re-soldering it) would have been too easy...

I figured out that it's the switch itself that is the problem; not flicking the switch has (temporarily) solved the problem until I can replace the switch itself as it is an intermittent issue (so once I got it actually working, I just left the switch on and now just unplug the power lead when needed). It's not completely fixed, but it'll suffice for now.

Just admired your shot of M42 ( http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=100440 ); will discuss that in that thread, as I have a few questions for you.

Cheers,
Dave
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  #25  
Old 18-01-2013, 12:34 PM
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John0z (John)
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David,

Ok - the connectors are a little tight but using a small screwdriver, you can pry each end out a little, then it comes off ok. These are similar to those connectors used on the old printers. Good thing I did this, I found that a spider had taken temporary residence on the board under the power switch connections.

Once the connectors are removed, the control panel can pull out further to allow access to two small screws with washers that fasten it to the housing. This would allow the switch to be disconnected. To put it back together, the board has to slide in so that the RJ12 and RJ45, power socket etc go back into the respective holes in the housing.

I had a quick look at my parts supplier for this switch, but haven't found it yet - I had already put it back together so will open it again to find out the switch manufacturer.

Also, I noticed that my gears were not meshing well, only half a gear thickness, so adjusted this while I had it open - also there was no grease on the gears, another thing to do I suppose.

Anyway, glad that you have it working for the time being.

-John
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  #26  
Old 18-01-2013, 01:29 PM
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John0z (John)
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Heq5 swutch

David,

I took the switch out - it is made by ZhongXun and the closest I can find at their website is http://www.zxgroup.com/en/productSho...&productid=203

The main difference is that the cut-out on the panel is 13.5 x 8.5 mm. A search on eBay found a few suppliers of KCD11 switches which are probably the equivalent - reasonably cheap, so could be worth the chance to see if they will fit. One supplier says the cut-out is 13 x 8 mm, the other gives the size of the switch itself as being 15 x 10 which is very similar to the existing switch I have.

Anyway, just thought I would let you know if you want to go down that road, If I do find a switch in my various parts collections that would work, I will certainly PM you.

-John

P.S. Maybe Skywatcher might have this as a spare part - could be worth a phone call to Bintel or Andrews.
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  #27  
Old 18-01-2013, 02:14 PM
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marki
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A whole $1.25 but it is black not red.


http://www.altronics.com.au/index.as...=item&id=S3201

Some others.

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=prod&grp=297

Mark
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  #28  
Old 18-01-2013, 05:54 PM
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The Altronics switch looks like it works - the diagram shows one dimension to be wrong, but should be ok. S3201 at $1.45, not bad.

Thanks Mark - didn't get a chance to look at Altronics.
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  #29  
Old 20-01-2013, 03:01 PM
HunterGeo (David)
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Hi John and Mark,

Thank you both very much for all that info. I'll print this off and put it on my noticeboard so I've got it when the switch does (inevitably) die.

A thousand thank-you's.
David
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