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Old 03-11-2008, 10:21 PM
Zed (Zeljko)
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What to do next ?

Hello to you all !

First of all I would like to say that my knowledge in this field is very limited, so any kind of advice will be greatly appreciated !
Some time ago a friend gave me a telescope in disassembled state.
The main tube is approx. 1.4 m long and about 180 mm dia.
There is a lid on one end and a mirror mounting cell on other end.
Also it contains second mirror mounted at 45 degrees.
It has a custom built box for transport.
The focusing device is older type - it takes small diameter eye-peces. It came with 3 of those eye-pieces.
There is a finder scope mounted on the side.

The main mirror is enclosed in its own box, and hasnt been used at all.
It is 152 mm dia or 6 inches.

I would like to know how useful is 6 inch telescope for observing objects other then the Moon ?

Would it be worth making a stand for it and where to find plans ?
I have access to whole engineering workshop so I can make more complicated designs.

Is it possible to change focusing device to a more modern design so I can use larger diameter eye-pieces which are more available at the shops ?
http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/C...p\DSC01223.JPG

Thank you !
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:12 AM
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Blue Skies (Jacquie)
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Hello Zed,

You have a Newtonian telescope there. You've described the Primary mirror as being 6" across but to rebuild the scope you will need to have some idea of what the focal length is.

Why?

You indicate that you would like to replace the focuser, the part that hold the eyepieces, so that it can take standard 1.25" eyepieces. To do this you will need to know the focal length. If you could tell us the height of the focuser we might be able to work it out without you getting the mirror out yourself, but from the figures you've already given it indicates its around an f/8 or 1200m long (I'm going to skip stuff here and recommend that you look up the terms used to describe telescope parts and also how Newtonian telescopes work. There should be heaps of info around)

A 6" scope will introduce you to the deep sky, with open clusters, globular clusters and some of the brighter galaxies. A 6" f/8 usually does a good job on the planets, too.

Making a dobsonian mount is the easiest way to go.
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Old 04-11-2008, 11:40 AM
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erick (Eric)
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The good news, Zeljko, is that it sounds like it is a straight newtonian design, with no lens fitted in the focusser tube in order to reduce the length of the tube by two. If so, it will be much easier to collimate.

What is the eyepiece barrel diameter? - 1.25" or 0.96". If 1.25" - plenty of good eyepieces are available. If 0.96", yes you are limited.

For the moment, you should put it all together as it is - rough up a dobsonian mount, and get it collimated and see how it performs.

Be aware that a basic 6" reflecting telescope on a dobsonian mount, of good entry level quality, sells for around $369 (Andrews Communications website). So spending lots of money getting this one working and mounted may not be the best investment?
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Old 04-11-2008, 11:57 AM
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rmcpb (Rob)
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Yep, put it together and see how it goes as it is. Then start considering what you can change to improve it if you decide to go that way. If nothing else it will be a great learning experience if you decide to continue in astronomy.

The 6" f8 was the workhorse scope for most amatures before the cheap Chinese scopes became available. Well worth sticking with BUT remember Eric's advice about the value of any upgrades.
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  #5  
Old 04-11-2008, 05:42 PM
Zed (Zeljko)
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Thank you for your advice !
I will put it together using all the parts that came with it. I think I saw a thread somewhere on how to align - collimate the mirrors. It looks like very delicate operation, but I think i can do it.
Also making a dobsonian mount out of 20 mm plywood should be quite easy operation because it looks like all the major parts can be cut on the water-jet cutter which I use on daily basis at work...

Erick thanks for pointing out economic feasibility of the project, and as far as the eyepieces go they are 0.96" or 24.38 mm and they are 22,20 and 12.5 mm focal lengths. I'm sure I have seen 6 mm focal length piece somewhere in the box...
Do I need any other eye-pieces ?
I should be able to make entire mount for less than $50
How do I measure the height of the focuser ?
I guess it has to be measured from the tube to the top of it, but fully extended or fully collapsed ? I'm asking just for future reference, just in case I decide that it is worth improving.
Btw. I tried posting a picture of the primary mirror still in its box but it didn't work out..

Thank you once again !
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:22 PM
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erick (Eric)
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Does the tube have any altitude bearings on it? Or holes for them? I suspect this may have been once associated with an equatorial mount to which it would have been mounted with a set of tube rings - but they are not present as well.

Look at the photos of the GSO dobsonian-mounted telescopes and that will give you an idea of the type of bearings you need to fit to the scope. If you can make them on a set of rings that go around the scope, then you can loosen and slide the tube up and down a little to find the right balance point. Check you leave enough space underneath so the scope can be swung to vertical without hitting the bottom of the base.

Just get started with the supplied eyepieces to see how it goes.

Re collimation - it's pretty straightforward. If the primary mirror is not "centre-spotted", you should do that before you mount it in place. Just search "centre spotting mirror" or similar and you should find some "how-to" guides with photos. Best to put one of these ring binder reinforcement rings in the centre which allows easy use of a laser tool (hmm - but they will all be 1.25" dia or larger?). OK, just a texta spot will do for visual collimating - it can be a "chunky" spot so it's easy to see - not a fine dot. Don't worry about the middle of the primary mirror. It is under the shadow of the secondary mirror and contributes virtually no light to your image at the eyepiece.

Why didn't the picture work out? Couldn't ake a god one or couldn't attach to your post? How about a few pictures of the scope and focusser - pictures really help people to comment and suggest.

Cheers, Eric
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:07 PM
Zed (Zeljko)
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I took pictures with my digital camera, they came out ok but I couldnt attach them to my post. I will try again now..
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:26 PM
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monoxide
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nice

the primary looks good, definately need a new secondary mirror though (the smaller one)

hard to tell but the focuser looks like its 0.96"

theres a 2" rack and pinion focuser for $20 from here:
https://www.bintelshop.com.au/Product.aspx?ID=6380
obviously its not a top notch focuser but it will be good enough to get you going.
you can get a new secondary mirror from the same place too so for around $60 - 80 the tube will be in working order.
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  #9  
Old 04-11-2008, 08:43 PM
Zed (Zeljko)
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I managed to clean up secondary mirror under running water.I did not use anything to wipe it clean, just running water and a drop of dishwashing liquid. Later I dried it out using compressed air on low pressure. Does this look ok ?
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  #10  
Old 04-11-2008, 09:39 PM
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erick (Eric)
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Good enough to get started. For all the dust and marks we see and cringe over, there is plenty of reflective surface to give an image.

How old do you believe it to be?
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Old 04-11-2008, 10:26 PM
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Blue Skies (Jacquie)
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The optics do look in pretty good condition for their age.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zed View Post
How do I measure the height of the focuser ?
I guess it has to be measured from the tube to the top of it, but fully extended or fully collapsed ? I'm asking just for future reference, just in case I decide that it is worth improving.
Eric made a good comment about considering cost, its a one I often make myself to people considering building scopes. But if you would like to upgrade here is what you need to measure and think about.

Rack the focuser out until it is about half way, perhaps to where the 22mm eyepiece comes into focus. Without the eyepiece in it, measure from the side of the tube to the top of the focuser. That will be the height of the current focuser. But if you replace it the new one will most likely be a different height, and you then need to take into account the focal length of the telescope - a change in focuser will probably require a new tube to be made as well if the current tube is not long enough.

I mentioned about measuring focal length before; to be sure about the length try this (this is also what you need to measure up with the new focuser and tube if you go that way). I wrote this some time ago when I was trying to put some notes on telescope making together.

*******

1. Know the focal length of your mirror (f).

2. Measure the average height of your focuser.
Rack your focuser out about half way and measure from where it sits on the tube to the top of the draw-tube. This is (h).

3. Measure the diameter of the tube and halve it to get (r). If the tube is quite thick, add the tube thickness to r as well.

4. Put the primary mirror in its cell and hold it against the outside of the tube, marking where the top edge of the mirror sits. Make sure all bolts and knobs etc are contained within the tube. At this stage you may also like to mark a ring around the tube where holes for the cell are to be drilled.
Alternatively, sit the cell, with the mirror in it, on a table and accurately measure the height to the top edge of the mirror. Mark this distance on the outside of the tube.

5. You can now calculate the distance (d) for the focuser placement
d = f - (r + h)

Once you have d, you can measure from the mark you made on the outside of the tube for the top mirror edge to where the centre of the focuser should be. Mark this spot, then drill or cut your hole out.
6. Once you have your focuser placement, you can look at placement for the spider. You want to leave enough room between the spider and the secondary mirror cell for adjustment and collimation purposes. In other words, don't put the spider too close to the focuser (but don't put it too far away either).

7. Note- You do not have to be super-precise! The travel in the focuser will compensate for small errors in measurement. This is one reason you must remember to extend it when measuring h.

Also, make sure you place the primary mirror cell and the spider perpendicularly in the tube. This will make final collimation of the telescope much easier to achieve
**********

Hope that helps.
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  #12  
Old 04-11-2008, 10:28 PM
Zed (Zeljko)
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Im not sure how old it is. I had it for about 3 years now, but it could be more than 10 years old... Secondary mirror mounting bracket looks faded, the paint has peeled off. Should I respray it with matt black paint ?
I think I will put it together next weekend....
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  #13  
Old 05-11-2008, 06:38 AM
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GrahamL
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What A great looking scope .. Its quite probably much older than 10 years and is very well made.. You could very easily build a simple dob base for this without wrecking the tube ... rmpcb ( rob) had a great article floating around in the archives i think on doing this ... what happened to the original mount ?

good luck
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Old 05-11-2008, 05:38 PM
Zed (Zeljko)
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I think it might be at least 34 years old !! I found " The Journal " of the Astronomical Society of Victoria in the box with the telescope. It is dated October 1974 !
I don't know what happened to the original mount, probably lost long time ago... By Galileo himself maybe, the telescope is old enough ...
There is another magazine ( also came with the scope) that describes how to make a mount.
Interesting thing is that there is no mention of Dobson mount, probably wasn't invented when the magazine was printed.
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Old 05-11-2008, 10:50 PM
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erick (Eric)
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Hey Zed, put it together carefully and don't change anything yet. There may be some interest from collectors in such an old scope in good condition.
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