We purchased the Solar Scout 60 with the intention of using it's parts in our DIY solar set ups which has worked well. We have actually never used it as supplied. We do occasionally see the image from the scope on the screen while setting up prior to adding the extra etalon for double stacking. From those quick views we have never been impressed with the scope so we took the opportunity to experiment with it a bit to see if we could get an image we were happy with.
Initially, no matter what capture settings we played with the image was terrible. Our first change was to add a 40mm aperture mask as the scope as supplied is operating at F15.5 when DayStar's own documentation for the Quark states that it is best to operate at F25 or better F30 and above. The 40mm mask brings the focal ratio up to F23.25. We had already read of someone using a 37mm mask which makes it F25. Still it was difficult to focus the image. Our next step was to add an IR cut filter to the focal train before the reducer.
This is the result.
Final set up was DayStar Solar Scout 60 with 40mm aperture mask, ASI178MM plus IR cut filter and 0.5 reducer.
In our opinion, for single stack, the 40mm Lunt provides better images much more easily.
Interesting results Peter and Clare. Sometimes you win sometimes not - Ha imaging is tricky and requires a lot of experimentation. Thanks for the report, John W.
Hi Clare & Peter, a low powered nose Barlow in front of the Quark( telescope side) will increase your focal ratio. The Quark's built in telecentric Barlow will still give you a telecentric beam into the etalon. Don't mask the aperture as you will lose resolution.
I stack Barlows when I use my ED72 for H alpha imaging. A focal reducer behind the Quark will bring your image scale to a more usable level.
There is a bit more glass in the image train and you may get some reflections, but this can be cured by using flats.
Interesting results Peter and Clare. Sometimes you win sometimes not - Ha imaging is tricky and requires a lot of experimentation. Thanks for the report, John W.
Thanks John.
This was just an experiment to see how the scope as sold performs and is not our usual set up. We probably won't bother again.
Hi Clare & Peter, a low powered nose Barlow in front of the Quark( telescope side) will increase your focal ratio. The Quark's built in telecentric Barlow will still give you a telecentric beam into the etalon. Don't mask the aperture as you will lose resolution.
I stack Barlows when I use my ED72 for H alpha imaging. A focal reducer behind the Quark will bring your image scale to a more usable level.
There is a bit more glass in the image train and you may get some reflections, but this can be cured by using flats.
Martin
Thanks Martin.
This was just an experiment to see how the Solar Scout performed as sold. We don't and won't be using it in this way.
The Solar Scout is a dedicated self contained scope designed so the average user cannot make any changes. The manual states many times that it can't be disassembled or changed in any way. We have totally ignored this for our set ups but if you are using it as sold, there is no simple method to place a barlow ahead of the Quark unit as it is screwed in place with no front thread or nose piece.
The objective lens on the Solar Scout is figured for F3.6 which is a pretty wild lens. It is a doublet. Even though in theory you are only focusing a single wavelength of light, 656.3nm, it looks pretty furry.
Wow, that is some serious disassembly work. Really interesting to see the internals. All we needed to do for our set up was simply remove the Solar Scout Quark in it's housing from the scope by undoing four screws and make an adapter for it to fit onto a M42 thread.
We noticed your set up in the thread showing your peltier cooled camera. Do you have any details of that set up and has it been successful? What camera are you using and how much cooling have you achieved? Why cool for solar or do you use this camera for DSO long exposures?
Clare & Peter, I cool all my Solar cameras, the chip temperature with cooling is stable at about 32 degrees, uncooled the temperature is around 48-50 degrees. If the camera gets too hot the performance suffers and the sensor chip will degrade over time.
At the end of a four hour session the camera body is still cool.
I run a 12v Peltier module at 6v which lets me utilise a smaller heatsink and fan to keep the weight down as there is a fair bit of weight in the image train when using a Combo Quark with a Baader tz4.
Clare & Peter, I cool all my Solar cameras, the chip temperature with cooling is stable at about 32 degrees, uncooled the temperature is around 48-50 degrees. If the camera gets too hot the performance suffers and the sensor chip will degrade over time.
At the end of a four hour session the camera body is still cool.
I run a 12v Peltier module at 6v which lets me utilise a smaller heatsink and fan to keep the weight down as there is a fair bit of weight in the image train when using a Combo Quark with a Baader tz4.
I use a ZWO ASi 174mm and a ZWO ASI 290mm.
Martin
Hmmm, there's some food for thought here. We have a couple of peltier junctions sitting idle, it might be time to look at this. 48-50C is a bit of a worry. Thanks for the info Martin.
Just for a bit of MacGyvering I use these mobile phone peltier coolers that easily clip onto the back of a ZWO camera with a bit of extra rubber for the grips to fit (cooler size 67mm - ZWO diam 62mm). I also use a CPU/GPU thermal heatsink pad to ensure good conductivity. And then I use the same power brick as I do for the Daystar Quark to run it. They do work surprisingly well!
You can get them from AliExpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004532226683.html
Just for a bit of MacGyvering I use these mobile phone peltier coolers that easily clip onto the back of a ZWO camera with a bit of extra rubber for the grips to fit (cooler size 67mm - ZWO diam 62mm). I also use a CPU/GPU thermal heatsink pad to ensure good conductivity. And then I use the same power brick as I do for the Daystar Quark to run it. They do work surprisingly well!
You can get them from AliExpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004532226683.html
That's a great solution ken and would save a lot of work.
Just for a bit of MacGyvering I use these mobile phone peltier coolers that easily clip onto the back of a ZWO camera with a bit of extra rubber for the grips to fit (cooler size 67mm - ZWO diam 62mm). I also use a CPU/GPU thermal heatsink pad to ensure good conductivity. And then I use the same power brick as I do for the Daystar Quark to run it. They do work surprisingly well!
You can get them from AliExpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004532226683.html
That's very cool Ken
We had actually seen this suggested on a DSO forum where someone was using an uncooled planetary camera for long exposure subs. Thanks for the link. Have you measured how much it's cooling your camera? It seemed from the other discussion that a reduction of 10 degrees on the sensor was normal. It looks like Martin's set up is achieving better than this, maybe even up to 20 degrees.
Unfortunately no, I haven't been able to test the actual temp, although they do get darn cold on the cooler plate!!!
My process is simply to help the camera stay cooler while solar imaging. Regardless of ERF and UV/IR filters, I wanted to try and keep the temp within the cam a bit cooler.
Player One have a solution for their Apollo series of solar cams, but it is a simple fan and radiator and you need to affix it to the camera with double-sided thermal tape and bolts, plus it costs well over $100. So to get a peltier cooler that is easy to fit and doesn't require permanent mounting is a win in my books!
Here's a Firecapture screenshot taken this morning after about 1.5 hours imaging with my ASI 174mm, the temperature remains quite stable all through my imaging sessions.
Unfortunately no, I haven't been able to test the actual temp, although they do get darn cold on the cooler plate!!!
My process is simply to help the camera stay cooler while solar imaging. Regardless of ERF and UV/IR filters, I wanted to try and keep the temp within the cam a bit cooler.
Player One have a solution for their Apollo series of solar cams, but it is a simple fan and radiator and you need to affix it to the camera with double-sided thermal tape and bolts, plus it costs well over $100. So to get a peltier cooler that is easy to fit and doesn't require permanent mounting is a win in my books!
Thanks Ken. We'll put together something with the bits we have and do some testing.
Here's a Firecapture screenshot taken this morning after about 1.5 hours imaging with my ASI 174mm, the temperature remains quite stable all through my imaging sessions.
That looks good Martin.
In your pictures, you have an actual temperature controller on the peltier. We did a quick test with a 30mm x 30mm peltier junction powered via a 12V to 5V buck converter. Under load it was actually at 4.88V. This was stuck with heat sink adhesive pads to an old 80486 CPU heat sink and fan. Running continuously attached to the camera, it simply stabilised at a temperature of around 26C on the sensor. This was with a not a particularly warm ambient temperature, probably around 14C. (We were capturing video with the camera as we normally would during this test.) The case of the camera was very cool to touch and there was no condensation. From this test it seems questionable whether it would ever reach a temperature needing to be turned off. Does your set up actually turn on and off in use, and if so, at what temperature on the probe attached to the case? Have you experienced any issues with vibration caused by the fan?
I wasn't sure If running a Peltier on a cool day would create excessive condensation around the camera. I got a lot of condensation on my first cooled camera project a ASI385mc when I used it at night, so I use a thermostat on all my cooled cameras.
I don't have a problem with vibration as I put heatshrink tubing in the fan mounting holes and rubber washers either side of the fan to absorb the vibrations.
I wasn't sure If running a Peltier on a cool day would create excessive condensation around the camera. I got a lot of condensation on my first cooled camera project a ASI385mc when I used it at night, so I use a thermostat on all my cooled cameras.
I don't have a problem with vibration as I put heatshrink tubing in the fan mounting holes and rubber washers either side of the fan to absorb the vibrations.
Thanks Martin. That's interesting as we originally bought the peltier junctions for a camera we use at night and haven't yet got around to using them. Sounds like for the solar camera we might go without the controller. It saves a bit of extra weight which is a good thing. We'll have another look at our fan mounting. Hopefully if we get any sun this week we might be able to do an actual live test and see how it all goes.
Thanks Martin. That's interesting as we originally bought the peltier junctions for a camera we use at night and haven't yet got around to using them. Sounds like for the solar camera we might go without the controller. It saves a bit of extra weight which is a good thing. We'll have another look at our fan mounting. Hopefully if we get any sun this week we might be able to do an actual live test and see how it all goes.
Sounds good, I might try Ken's idea, JB hi fi sell, phone coolers for $49 and they might be a good option. When I first made my coolers about 5 years ago these things never existed.
I wasn't sure If running a Peltier on a cool day would create excessive condensation around the camera. I got a lot of condensation on my first cooled camera project a ASI385mc when I used it at night, so I use a thermostat on all my cooled cameras.
I don't have a problem with vibration as I put heatshrink tubing in the fan mounting holes and rubber washers either side of the fan to absorb the vibrations.
