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  #21  
Old 18-02-2009, 01:35 PM
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Quark (Trevor)
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Thanks for starting this most interesting thread Bert.

As someone only just getting into DSLR imaging I think this subject is very pertinent.

I wonder whether Mike might make this thread a "sticky" so that this information is easier to access and doesn't get lost as other posts push it further down through the forum.

Regards
Trevor
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  #22  
Old 18-02-2009, 01:48 PM
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As Trevor said; thanks Bert for this thread.

I am not doing flats yet, but will soon and this informations will be very helpfull.
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  #23  
Old 18-02-2009, 03:42 PM
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Here ia a helpful web site
http://www.hiddenloft.com/notes/CCDAP02.pdf
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  #24  
Old 18-02-2009, 08:07 PM
Hagar (Doug)
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I must be missing something in this as I understood a normal image process included the use of Darks, Flats and Bias files. Maybe I am wrong but it sounds like how to suck eggs to me.
Perhaps we can expect some images with a bit more colour and less washed out.

Last edited by Hagar; 18-02-2009 at 09:25 PM.
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  #25  
Old 19-02-2009, 12:39 AM
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Octane (Humayun)
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Doug,

Not everyone does the whole rigmorale. I can understand that.

I think the point of this thread was to show how important it is to subtract dark frames from your flat frames. Seems like common sense, but, a lot of people don't do it, and it shows in the final image.

Regards,
Humayun

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagar View Post
I must be missing something in this as I understood a normal image process included the use of Darks, Flats and Bias files. Maybe I am wrong but it sounds like how to suck eggs to me.
Perhaps we can expect some images with a bit more colour and less washed out.
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  #26  
Old 19-02-2009, 07:56 AM
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Humayun, yep I do it to the letter as well, just as I was showen by some of the very experienced on this site.

However I reckon where it all falls down is in the final processing of the data, at which some of us are not that experienced, me for one.


I know that if I could master all the aspects of processing the final image, my images, (although I'm happy with the results), would have more impact.

Leon
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  #27  
Old 19-02-2009, 08:03 AM
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iceman (Mike)
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Doug, the purpose of this thread was specifically about "darks for your flats". Not darks, or flats, or biases on their own.

Not everyone takes darks for their flats.
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  #28  
Old 19-02-2009, 08:47 AM
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Leon,

I've watched your progression from your very earliest efforts to the newer widefields with the Tak. You've come a very, very long way, in a relatively short amount of time.

I'm glad to read that you do the whole process!

You're right about the final processing. It's something that takes a long time to master. Where most people probably fell asleep reading Jase's very descriptive image descriptions, I'd soak that stuff up and love it.

Regards,
Humayun

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Originally Posted by leon View Post
Humayun, yep I do it to the letter as well, just as I was showen by some of the very experienced on this site.

However I reckon where it all falls down is in the final processing of the data, at which some of us are not that experienced, me for one.


I know that if I could master all the aspects of processing the final image, my images, (although I'm happy with the results), would have more impact.

Leon
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  #29  
Old 19-02-2009, 08:59 AM
Hagar (Doug)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman View Post
Doug, the purpose of this thread was specifically about "darks for your flats". Not darks, or flats, or biases on their own.

Not everyone takes darks for their flats.
Mike , with flat framed exposure times normally held well below the 30 second mark there is absolutely no need to take darks for your flat frames. Bias files on the other hand are quite a diferent matter. The read noise must be calculated into the flat frame to ensure a good quality master flat frame. The fact that most if not all image calibration programs go through a calibration and normalisation process when creating a master Flat and sets all the pixel integer values at a scaled value to set the calibration masterfile, the need for a dark is totally negated.
Berts example image is a section of an image which could well be a read aberation or noise or could be a harmonic setup by the fact that his camera is surrounded by TEC coolers etc which it was not designed to compensate for. Astro cooled CCD cameras have any aberation or harmonics created by electronics built into the in camera processing.
It must also remember that a DSLR while manufactured to work through a wide temprature range are optimised to operate correctly at a mid range area and to change this and try to reduce the operating temprature to the bottom end of the range will affect the operation of the camera in some way or another. Even the Astro DSLR's manufactured by central ds in korea, only cool the CCD and leave the remainder of the electronics alone. The cooling system of these is designed as a specific modification and is fully filtered to reduce harmonics etc.

Any dark frame calibration is taken into account during the overall calibration process and when the final calibration is staged in the software a combined calibration is carried out by a set routine which compensates for all of these abnormalities.
Flat frame images are not just a matter of taking a short image where the peak ADU count is 1/3 of the total full well capacity of the camera but should actually be taken at an exposure level which places the exposure in the linear range of the affected camera and all CCD's/CMOS sensors have a diferent linear range. To complete these files effectively you should graph the performance of your camera output and use an exposure which puts your flat exposure in the linear range of the camera sensor.
It is all a lot more complicated than just using an ADU count to guage your exposure.

Anyone who takes an image should use Darks Flats and Bias frames to calibrate their images and I know full well that a lot choose not to use some or even all of these calibration files. I am guilty of this on numerous occasions and usually nmention this fact when I post an image and usually get a comment back to ask why not. This choise is a personal one usually made for various reasons, be it time or just pure laziness, it is just a desision made at the time. If all images were to be used for full scientific purposes almost all images produced and posted on this and other forums would not cut the mustard.

The fact that this operation has made a diference to Berts image is great for Bert but may well impart other imperfections to an image when not using a modification like Bert has made to cool his camera to a point where at times may well be operating outside it's normal operating range. Any electronic equipment operating outside the normal will create small aberations which require further processing to repair. A top of the line camera such as the 5D should not be creating the type of aberation which is present in the attached image and may require some adjustment at the factory to correct this or it could be caused by something external to the camera.

Over compensation during the calibration process can and does lead to images being washed out and devoid of depth of field and is quite evident in a lot of wide field images in particular. Images often appear to have a grey wash or appear to have been taken through fine cloud which even strips a lot of the colour depth out of the image.

Last edited by Hagar; 19-02-2009 at 09:56 AM.
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  #30  
Old 19-02-2009, 12:46 PM
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Doug makes a lot of valid points. I am happy for him to be devils advocate as I do not possess all knowledge. The banding pattern and noise you see in the dark for the flat are at room temperature. This banding pattern and noise is far higher than any banding pattern or noise in any images taken with the camera at -10C. What was happening was that a really clean image was being unduly modulated by the uncorrected flat. In other words the banding pattern and noise was being introduced by the flat correction.

I tried using bias frames for correction in IP but these were taken at -10C.

I have found it is far better to use a dark frame at the exact same temperature as the lights. And use a flat corrected with a dark at the same temperature whether at ambient or -10C. Then no bias frame is needed at all in the corrections as it has all ready been taken into account.

The main purpose of the fridge is to have the camera in a constant temperature environment. The fridge is temperature controlled to plus or minus 0.1C even with large ambient temperature fluctuations that we get in Melbourne over one night.

On a hot summers night say 22C I run the fridge at -5.0C. On hotter nights even higher. These temperatures are well within the operating range of the camera as the electronics and sensor will be several degrees hotter than the fridge temperature. In fact the sensor rises by about two degrees from idle (camera on) to taking long exposures. So it is important to equilibrate the whole system by having the camera constantly exposing so then the darks will match the lights exactly. Even then it is not quite as good as ICNR! The real advantage is I get twice the number of images per night.

Healthy criticism should not be discouraged. We can all learn something from each other. I wonder where Jase goes for advice?


Bert
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  #31  
Old 19-02-2009, 03:16 PM
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Humayun, many thanks for your encouragement much appreciated, as for Doug and Bert, excellent points to ponder on, but I might just stay out of this one.

Leon
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  #32  
Old 19-02-2009, 03:24 PM
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Here is an image done with a corrected flat and showing full frame.

Full res 3.8MB
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~fmlee/CarNF.jpg

Here is the same data with an uncorrected flat.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~cheekyfish/carhdrD.jpg

The really faint data is far better.


Bert

Last edited by avandonk; 19-02-2009 at 03:36 PM.
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  #33  
Old 19-02-2009, 05:04 PM
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The entire crux of this debate is about reducing the noise in an image.
Noise comes from various sources including (but not limited to) dark noise, read noise, random noise, cosmic rays etc.
The important 2 here are probably read noise and dark noise and it depends which is more prevalent in the exposure.
For short exposures the read noise becomes greater than the dark noise so subtracting a dark that has inherent read noise in it may actually increase the noise in the image. This is when just using an offset for the flat frames is of benefit.
You can reduce the read noise by averaging large numbers of dark frames or bias frames before subtracting them. This is where ICNR falls down for short exposures (and probably why the cameras don't allow it below a certain exposure time.)
If the flat frame exposure is long enough that the dark current is the dominant source of noise then the subtraction of a dark will help.
In the end for non science images it probably doesn't make a lot of difference.
I've attached an article about the detection of exoplanet transits using amateur equipment. It has a very nice explanation of the sources of noise in images.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 1.pdf (164.0 KB, 3 views)
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  #34  
Old 19-02-2009, 06:17 PM
Hagar (Doug)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avandonk View Post
Here is an image done with a corrected flat and showing full frame.

Full res 3.8MB
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~fmlee/CarNF.jpg

Here is the same data with an uncorrected flat.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~cheekyfish/carhdrD.jpg

The really faint data is far better.


Bert
Do I read the title of the second file correctly and guess it is a HDR processed file or is it a true corrected or uncorrected raw image with just a possible linear or curved stretch?

With both images could you also give some idea of the actual calibration used. eg. Flats, bias and darks or Flats, flat darks, darks etc. It will make understanding the diference a little easier.

Thanks
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