Just attach them to the front of the dome and they can rotate with it. You dont even need to use good attachments, just call them "decorative".
LOL, yeah just like the stupid handles. For those that don't know; the only poxy thing about the Scope Dome is the decorative handles that don't have long enough screws to go through the body of the shutter. So they you either drill our the holes just a little which results in the handle flopping about or just silicone up the holes.
the decorative handles that don't have long enough screws to go through the body of the shutter. So they you either drill our the holes just a little which results in the handle flopping about or just silicone up the holes.
I guess I don't understand. Why not just purchase some longer screws?
I guess I don't understand. Why not just purchase some longer screws?
Just observation Ernie, there are supposed to be the right screws for the job. I will have to either silicon up the holes or buy longer screws. The handles don't do much once the drives are engaged. So I might as well silicon on the holes.
I was in Clayton Bay on the week end visiting my inlaws, I drove past about midday on Sat. and saw a few guys there working away.
Your observatory and your new Dome Look Very nice...Well Done.
In the last week I have been slowly installing the electrical equipment to automate the dome.
In the first image I have installed the shutter inverter and shutter connection board. I have wired up the limit switches and power lead to the inverter.
In the second image the homing sensor is in position and the dome motor is temporary installed.
The third image shows the shutter motor wired and the open limit switch to the right. The white timber is the prop to hold the top of the dome open properly. I am trying to source a expanding prop, but for now this will do. For some reason the domes sometimes need this prop. Without the prop the shutter does not slide up and down easily.
The fourth image shows the dome connector board and inverter completely wired up. You can also see the umbilical cord which rotates around the dome. It will be connected the USB board which controls the entire dome. It is yet to be wired up.
The last image shows the mess I created by sorting out the new computer (red box off to the right of the coffee table). Visible is the STXL, PMX, Atlas focusor and under that is the Pyxis 3" rotator. All the cables are just to make it all work. I have finally got it all talking to CCDautopilot. I just need to commission it all in the dome, doing tpoint, V curves, collimation and work out how to use SkyX.
More commentary and pictures as I complete things.
How heavy is that mount, Id put it at the end of the table or risk snapping the table in half how you have it ! just trying to protect your sexy furniture , , ,
How heavy is that mount, Id put it at the end of the table or risk snapping the table in half how you have it ! just trying to protect your sexy furniture , , ,
Not that heavy and the table is made from 40mm MDF. All packed up now though.
The only thing that seems out of place with all this high end gear is the GSO RC. I guess you must have faith in it that it will be worth it. It seems the weak link in the chain, like putting a Ferrari V12 in a VW. But I know you have an upgrade path in mind.
The only thing that seems out of place with all this high end gear is the GSO RC. I guess you must have faith in it that it will be worth it. It seems the weak link in the chain, like putting a Ferrari V12 in a VW. But I know you have an upgrade path in mind.
Greg.
You get what you pay for Greg as you know. The optics on it are fine for now, but one day as I mentioned to you before I will get a big scope as a replacement. I know what these optics can do now with flexure and average guiding; I think I can produce much better images yet with the right imaging train. Until I can afford to replace this scope, I will see just what these GSO RC's can do. I have seen some really nice images out of them drifting around on CN. I think the only failing is the tubes on the 12" scopes. I have an order to replace that with the new truss which is soon to be shipped. If I can wring out fine detail with this mirror set in a truss then that will work for me for a few years until I look at a 17"CDK or 17"RC. If not I have at least satisfied myself that I have done what I could.
You get what you pay for Greg as you know. The optics on it are fine for now, but one day as I mentioned to you before I will get a big scope as a replacement. I know what these optics can do now with flexure and average guiding; I think I can produce much better images yet with the right imaging train. Until I can afford to replace this scope, I will see just what these GSO RC's can do. I have seen some really nice images out of them drifting around on CN. I think the only failing is the tubes on the 12" scopes. I have an order to replace that with the new truss which is soon to be shipped. If I can wring out fine detail with this mirror set in a truss then that will work for me for a few years until I look at a 17"CDK or 17"RC. If not I have at least satisfied myself that I have done what I could.
Truss is the way to go. I see the problems a few have had with tubes in the CDK12. I had a tube RCOS 12 inch and I don't recall problems with that particularly but it probably had more thermal current issues than I realised. Flexure/current are probably the weak points of a tube. A CDK17 in your area should perform like Martins in the Sierra Nevadas.
I finished wiring the dome shutter today. I had to use a continuity tester on the umbilical cord as there are 14 wires and 13 of them are black. You need to test each cable to determine which end belongs to which at the other end.
I have provided a video for you guys to check out the shutter opening and closing.
In the coming days I will wire up the dome motor and associated wired components such as the homing sensor and the shutter encoder.
The blue will go nicely with the red of the PMX, SBIG and the computer case.
For those that don't know; the only poxy thing about the Scope Dome is the decorative handles that don't have long enough screws to go through the body of the shutter. So they you either drill our the holes just a little which results in the handle flopping about or just silicone up the holes.
