The price drop is probably about clearing stock. This model has been discontinued afaik.
In terms of the rockerbox and cell mods then you should aim your searches at the 16" lightbridge which is the same cell and similarly constructed base. The LB16 would have a vastly larger user base so there are a lot more mod discusions.
Heavier duty springs on the Collimation bolts to prevent the mirror going out of collimation when changing altitude. tbh though after getting a new set for my LB16, I think the OEM springs are fine as long as you compress them more. ie. tighten all 3 all the way back. Loosen one a turn and then never touch that collimation knob again. Collimate your primary with the other two and only the other two for ever more. This prevents you gradually over several collimations letting the primary creep up on the bolts to a point where the springs aren't compressed enough to provide enough resistance for stable collimation. You only need 2 collimation bolts to collimate the primary. What I gather is that the springs were definately underpowered on the smaller GSO models and everyone just assumed the 16" models were as bad. They are not. GSO did upgrade the springs for the 16" versions.
If you are replacing the springs then its just a case of loosening all the bolts and popping one out and replacing it before moving onto the next.
Heres what a German guy called Deister did to his GSO 16" with metal cable and turnbuckle.
GSO String Strut mod
This kind of mod would also solve Shroud attachment issues.
The GSO's use silicone between the edge of the mirror and the rim of the mirror cell for edge support. The thickness of the GSO 16" mirrors means the mirror is more tolerant of less than perfect edge support like this and most people don't have a problem caused by the silicone edge support. Where it is a problem for most people however is when the mirror needs a bath. You can't remove the mirror from the cell without cutting the silicone. Some people fearful of disrupting their silicone edge support strip all other hardware from the cell and wash the mirror still stuck to the cell. Others decide to kill two birds with one stone and get rid of the silicone to make it ewasy to remove the mirror and implement a better edge support system. This is drilling 2 threaded holes on the bottom of the cell rim at the mirrors centre of gravity 90 degrees apart and using a nylon bolt through those holes to hold the mirror.
Now, I think you might find the following thread interesting.
GSO Collapsible Strut conversion
This was a guy who converted his solid tube Zhummel(GSO) to a Strut system like a Skywatcher Flextube using Moonlite Truss hardware. After reading the thread I realised that although to some it might seem like a step backwards for me with a truss lightbridge in terms of flexure, I nevertheless could see very many Pro's and few cons other than flexure if I were to do a similar conversion to my Lightbridge. Neither of us would need to go through a load of Dremel cutting discs like he had to to cut out the middle section of his Solid tube.
IMHO while I did have to think about a conversion from Truss to 3 Strut for a while before making my mind up, for you it could be a no brainer. You already have to think about a cable string mod to remove flexure anyway. You could even use your old struts to make the outriggers for a wheel system similar to what this guy did, so its not like your old struts would go to waste
You would now have a scope that didn't dominate the space it was in set up when collapsed into R2D2 configuration
but with no assembly required to use. Just extend the UTA. Just wheel it out with the built in handtruck system. BTW one can safely trim off the circle baseboard and groundboard to make it fit through doors.
With a collapsible strut conversion one might then question whether one should have bought the 16" Skywatcher Flextube. Don't worry, you still made the right choice. The SW FT is a behemoth. The Rockerbox sides are nearly a foot taller than our scopes. The Lower OTA is longer and heavier than ours. The UTA cannot be removed for lifting or transport like ours could with the Moonlite truss hardware. The fact that the Non Goto version of the SW FT uses the same parts as the Goto means that both versions rides higher than ours (to clear their azimuth motor) and thus puts the EP out of reach at zenith of all but the 6'4" brigade. ie. EP height is a good 5 inches higher than ours despite the fact that the scope is the same apeture and focal length as ours.
Finally have a look here where I asked Dobstuff guy Dennis Steele about the string mod.
String Mod discussion
Feel free to barrage me with further questions if need be.
