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Old 06-12-2011, 09:40 AM
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graham.hobart (Graham stevens)
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rosette advice-

I would really like to get some Rosette action, I have taken some so far but it is quite blue, using an unmodified canon camera + 80mm refractor. My question is this..
Am I on a wasted journey trying to get some 'redness' on the rosette' using an unmodded camera? (because of dominant Ha)
Or-
What sort of exposure lengths would get me some of the rosy tint with my unmodded system?
I have done 8 mins subs already on this set up when the moon goes down so could feasibly push it to ten mins. But would I just be gettin the same blue version because of the Ha insensitivity?
Much appreciated advice
Graham
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Old 06-12-2011, 10:54 AM
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bmitchell82 (Brendan)
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you got it big fella, if its mainly Ha you wont get it! no matter how much time you put into each intergration
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:53 PM
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rcheshire (Rowland)
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I did this with an ED80, unmodified 1000d and astronomik cls-ccd filter - 800iso 3.5 hours. ~5 minute exposures. Not sure about the Rosette.
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:09 PM
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graham.hobart (Graham stevens)
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rosette

Do you reckon the CLS filter would help? I have one but have found it causes a blue tinge on everything.
Graham
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Old 06-12-2011, 10:23 PM
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rcheshire (Rowland)
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Depends how you use it. With your setup expose 5 - 7 mins - say 3.5 - 4 hours. Colour calibration will fix blue tinge.
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  #6  
Old 07-12-2011, 12:50 AM
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bmitchell82 (Brendan)
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The red you see isn't the Ha, its almost nigh on impossible for a standard unmodified camera to capture Ha. Its like saying a narrow band OIII filter is capturing Ultra violet.

This is why when people take photos of the Tarantuchla nebula with a un modified DSLR its well blue, but if you take the same image with a modified or astro CCD its well pretty much red with some faint hints of blue. here is a un modified canon 40D and this was taken a week or two back same telescope different camera/filter here in narrow band Hydrogen alpha, so you can appriciate the data that the camera is missing!

Unfortunately although you will get some red colouring which is right on the cut off for the daylight filter most of the signal is blocked out 9 times out of ten the lovely colour that you see in images taken with normal unmodified cameras is to do with post processing and is a byproduct of "knowing the colour" so you make it red its not the 3.5hrs of intergration that has made it red. As for the CLS filter it reduces the light coming into your camera in the Sodium and Magnesium i believe bands (orange lights = sodium vapour white lights = magnesium vapour). This is why they claim to give your images more contrast, think of it like this with a paint brush and paint you put some lines on a white piece of paper all in the same types of colour eg red and blue. its striking, very contrasty between the three shades now you get a spray can of a slightly different shade of reds and blues stand back say half a meter and you spray or dust the whole picture. Now it doesn't look so contrasty all the inner bits have filled in, the CLS and consequently any "nebula enhancing" filters do is stop the mist of the other colours from entering the CCD/eye and as such giving a Contrasty view.

Hope that helps a little with your understanding of what light is making it to your camera sensor!

Brendan
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  #7  
Old 07-12-2011, 12:52 AM
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graham.hobart (Graham stevens)
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rosette

Sure does my man, didn't think I would get much 'natural' red from my set up on the rosette. Maybe I should just post my blue one!
Graham.
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Old 07-12-2011, 12:57 AM
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sorry that first one was ment to be my blue tarantchula...

here is the right one then you can see whats missing
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