Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton
Happy to help where I can Peter, though there are others here with much more experience than me. How do you find focusing with the DSLR, and do you have manual or motorfocus. I only ask because I thought the image a little soft for a night of good seeing? And I have difficulty focusing DSLR's. But it could be any one of many things.
The misalignment of RGB suggests a low elevation ? Ah! I see that from Baltimore Saturn had only about 20 degrees elevation, is that right?? If so that would explain a lot, and in that case a pretty good job.
Collimation and Tube currents can also affect your image.
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I thought that I could have done a better job of focusing. I just started using a JMI EV3CM Event Horizon electric Crayford focuser and thought that would be the answer to my focusing problem but I'm not sure that I'm using it correctly. When I pushed the button on the hand control switch to advance the Crayford tube the image of Saturn split in two. I ended up rotating the focuser knob on my SCT which is a very imprecise way of focusing plus it introduces problems related to mirror flop of the primary mirror. I'm thinking of buying the JMI's "Smart Focus" but I'm not sure if it's worth doing:
http://www.jimsmobile.com/buy_motor_...tm#Smart Focus
Another mistake I made is that I should have focused on a star or one of Saturn's moons rather than Saturn itself. I'll try that next time. Finally I'm thinking of buying a program called ImagesPlus DSLR Camera Controlf to automatically control focus but I have to play with the program demo to see if it would help.
http://www.mlunsold.com/ILCameraControl.html
I do my imaging from my condo balcony which means that I can only see celestial objects when they fall below 40 degrees altitude. Above that the ceiling of my balcony blocks my telescope from seeing anything but the balcony ceiling.
I do have a question; do you think that it would be worth upgrading from my 8 inch SCT to an 11 inch SCT? I was thinking that if I could capture more light with a larger aperture that I could reduce the DSLR exposure time and "freeze" the atmosphere to better reduce the distortion. Do you think it would make a significant difference?
Thanks Clayton I've been to a lot of AP forums but this is by far the most helpful one and your input here goes a long way to explaining why that is true.
Peter