I am looking to get my first scope and it’s a toss-up between a Skywatacher 10” or a GSO 12”. I intend to have a look at a wide spectrum of objects but I’m most excited about looking at DSOs.
It is only around $100 more for the GSO 12” from Andrews ($200 difference between the GSO 10” but the SW 10” I can get locally ), it is bigger and comes with a bunch more EPs and on paper looks like the better deal.
However, I have not seen a 12” in person. I’ve had a chance to look through, pick up and play with the SW 10”. I drive a Toyota Camry Wagon so it is well within the manageable size range and appears to be an excellent scope.
1. Can anyone comment on any pros and cons for either of these scopes or brands?
2. How considerable is the size increase from a 10” to a 12” (1200mm to 1500mm) in the practical world? I am a standard 6 foot lad in my 20's.
3. I am told there will be little aperture advantage in bright suburbia but how noticeable is the difference in viewing at a dark location?
4. Is there much difference between the Pyrex and BK7 mirrors in terms of optical quality?
5. I will probably get a laser collimator but are there any other goodies I should grab straight away?
6. I would like to stick to a closed tube because I may decide to mount the OTA onto a EQ mount at a later stage, is this feasible with a 12” or will it be too heavy and difficult to stabilize?
As I have a 12" overal I wouldn't go back down. But I now have a shoulder injury and expecting surgery early next year. Although not the cause of the injury having only a 12" means it will be a lot longer after recovery before I can start using it.
Apart from that apeture rules. If there is a small convern for size get a collapsible. big positive from me.
Skywatchers are more available in Perth than GSO's
I have a 12" skywatcher truss dob and they are a lot bigger than the 10". No way would I want a solid tube 12". My old 10" solid tube skywatcher just fit across the back seat in my honda civic. If you plan to go to dark skies grab the 10". Far easier to transport and a 10" under dark skies will easily outdo a 12" in the 'burbs.
I'd be tempted to go the GSO 10" just for the better focuser over the skywatcher.
A camry wagon has heaps of space and if you are confident that you can fit it in the back then go that way. There's no way i'd be able to fit a 12" in any of my cars, besides it would weigh too much for me to be wanting to cart it around regularly.
I have the 10" collapsible skywatcher and i am more than happy with it
Hi Ross, to IIS.
If you stick to a 10", either a solid tube or truss type will be ok.
If you want a 12", I would highly recommend that you purchase a truss or strut type, like the Lightbridge or Skywatcher.
If the 12" is to stay in one place, a solid tube will be ok, but if you will be transporting it, the size and weight will be against it.
I own a 12" lightbridge, it's 3 main sections makes it easy to setup and pulldown as well as transport. I've seen too many friends battle with the physical size and weight of the solid 12".
The solid tube's main advantage is the price, approx $300 cheaper.....
However, I have not seen a 12” in person. I’ve had a chance to look through, pick up and play with the SW 10”. I drive a Toyota Camry Wagon so it is well within the manageable size range and appears to be an excellent scope.
1. Can anyone comment on any pros and cons for either of these scopes or brands?
2. How considerable is the size increase from a 10” to a 12” (1200mm to 1500mm) in the practical world? I am a standard 6 foot lad in my 20's.
3. I am told there will be little aperture advantage in bright suburbia but how noticeable is the difference in viewing at a dark location?
4. Is there much difference between the Pyrex and BK7 mirrors in terms of optical quality?
5. I will probably get a laser collimator but are there any other goodies I should grab straight away?
6. I would like to stick to a closed tube because I may decide to mount the OTA onto a EQ mount at a later stage, is this feasible with a 12” or will it be too heavy and difficult to stabilize?
Thanks in advance
Hi there and
1. I own a 10" skywatcher, used to own a gso/lightbridge and have used a 12" gso. The GSO dob comes by default better equipped than the Skywatcher. This includes a fan on the primary, right angle finderscope (Skywatcher has straight through), a 10:1 crayford focuser (Skywatcher is not crayford), bobs knobs on secondary/primary (skywatcher still uses alan screw type on secondary) and I think the GSO has a better altitude tension bolt.
2. There is a considerable size difference between a 10" and 12" scope. The 10" is far more portable without comprising too much light. Only you can answer though whether its suitable for your observing conditions or not. If size isn't an issue than leap at the 12" Otherwise go for the 10'er.
3. For an experienced observer, you will definitely notice the difference in dark skies between a 10" and 12". It's not dramatic, but its there. The other advantage of 12" is down the track you most likely will start adding filters (like UHC and OIII) to enhance the contrast of certain DSO's. These will reduce the light entering the eyepiece. A 12" will certainly show a brighter image than a 10".
4. The Pyrex will cool quicker in theory, but in practise I've found scopes of this size (especially 2" thick mirrors) still require an hr (give or take) to cool down.
5. Telrad and dew heaters! They are a must. If you purchase a truss scope, than a shroud as well.
6. I guess you want to do some astrophotography? Otherwise it's not recommended to mount such a scope on an eq mount for observing. I won't comment on astrophotography for dobs on eq mounts as there are better people on these forums who can answer that
1. I own a 10" skywatcher, used to own a gso/lightbridge and have used a 12" gso. The GSO dob comes by default better equipped than the Skywatcher. This includes a fan on the primary, right angle finderscope (Skywatcher has straight through), a 10:1 crayford focuser (Skywatcher is not crayford), bobs knobs on secondary/primary (skywatcher still uses alan screw type on secondary) and I think the GSO has a better altitude tension bolt.
Just to clarify, i don't about the solid tubes but the collapsible skywatcher dobs have a crayford style focuser.
I had a solid Bintel 300 mm dob (none of that imperial cringing at my place) and it was a big heavy beast, not very portable at all, even less so if you fit it with Argo Navis or something (takes more care).
I trundled it around at home on a hand trolley, and this was quite a good thing. When I took it somewhere, that was a major production as I have a sedan, so a wagon would be much better. You might like to carefully measure the length of the OTA and diameter of the base to see where they would fit best.
It would always arrive and set up to be miles (no, kilometres!!) out of collimation, but then so would a truss dob I guess, so no difference there.
A friend of mine has a 250 mm Lightbridge, and (although he is not the most patient person I ever met) it always looked to be an irritating amount of fiddle to get it assembled. And then the collimation had to follow. The cigarette butts down there did not help either.
In all, with the considerations from others here, I would buy a solid tube 250 mm dob, and make sure it had a 2 speed Crayford focuser, strong collimation springs, and Bob's Knobs or similar.
As to the collimation, I greatly liked using a barlowed laser, but there is a wide variation of opinion in that area, so I will register one vote only.
A big scope can either be a blessing or a curse. Many big scopes are purchased with the best of intentions, but only for their owners to down-size or, worst of all, give up.
I really suggest, in fact, I always now suggest that the stary-eyed get to an astro-club or some other local star party, and see these things in action. There you will see how the owners deal with the portability issues, what accessories they use, and how they perform.
Accessory wise, a laser is fine, but I do suggest a "chesire eyepiece". These will deal with the position of the secondary mirror in relation to both the primary and the focuser. The laser alone won't and you'll be cheating yourself of both photons and image quality with only the laser.
Other stuff, no need to rush. Learn with the gear the scope comes with first. Accessories can be a real money pit. You can also take your new Cyclops to further star parties and look to borrow other's eyepieces and see how these perform, both in the scope and to your preference.
Sorry Geoff,
Can't agree about the Lightbridges taking so long to set up.
I've had my 12" LB for nearly five years.
From unpacking to collimation (as long as I don't start chatting with someone) takes approx 10 mins, and I have quite a number of extra bits to attach. I've also found that collimation is either extremely close to perfect, or just needs a small turn of one collimation knob.
Just to clarify, i don't about the solid tubes but the collapsible skywatcher dobs have a crayford style focuser.
cheers
If you compare the GSO 10:1 crayford focuser to the skywatcher style you'll see they are chalk and cheese. Not that the GSO is crash hot or anything, but the skywatcher is far more flimsier and doesn't last as long as the gso.
If you compare the GSO 10:1 crayford focuser to the skywatcher style you'll see they are chalk and cheese. Not that the GSO is crash hot or anything, but the skywatcher is far more flimsier and doesn't last as long as the gso.
What I’ve gathered from IIS, other sites and word of mouth is that the increased aperture probably isn’t going to provide much benefit in the ‘burbs but will provide brighter images of the DSOs I’m after at the cost of mobility.
I’m still not 100% decided but am leaning towards the 12” essentially because I am fairly well equipped and used to moving painfully large objects. I already have a trolley so rolling it out of the house into the garden shouldn’t be too painful and measuring the Camry wagon deems it suitable for my intended monthly excursions to darker sites.
I have however ruled out the Skywatcher and Bintel scopes (thanks mbaddah for the link). I prefer the arsenal of the accessories and cost of the GSO over the Skywatcher and the freight from Bintel to Perth is much greater than the cost of the free telrad
Our school bought a 12 " GSO from Andrews (solid tube) and it looks like a hot water system. Saying that on the first night my mate tested it out I phoned him to see what the views were like and 15 minutes later i was at his place and we found 15 galaxies in an hour. It was and is fantastic. I am 46 and fitness level 7/10 and have no problems moving/lifting it I do recommend that when you become as nutty as my mate and I that you have two people when trying to mount it on an EQ6 Pro.
In exactly the same position as the above person... considering a 12" Dobsonian however for my budget it might be better to get a 10" Dobsonian + whatever else I need to get started. There's plenty of interesting advice here... however more advice at this stage would be appreciated!
), it is bigger and comes with a bunch more EPs and on paper looks like the better deal.
to IIS.
Otherwise go for the 10'er.
) takes approx 10 mins, and I have quite a number of extra bits to attach. I've also found that collimation is either extremely close to perfect, or just needs a small turn of one collimation knob.
