I've taken my M-210 apart for a service. It hasn't had one that I know of, and the focuser has become a little notchy, rather than moving with the liquid-smooth motion that Tak focusers are known for.
Given that the helical focuser itself is brass, and there wasn't much of the old grease left on it, what would one recommend to re-grease it with? A silicone-based grease or oil? The original grease is your typical yellow/orange grease colour - not black or white as per lithium. I don't want it to run when hot (as they invariably get when at star parties during the day) and I don't want it to increase in viscosity too much either.
The only other part that needs a decent smear is the main central baffle tube, around which the outer sleeve connected to the mirror cell itself slides. It's a very close lapped fit. It certainly doesn't want to become gluggy.
Thanks John I should probably have asked "does anyone know what the exact original grease that Takahashi uses is?". I'm pretty sure that the lapped centre baffle is critical in terms of the viscosity. The whole mirror assembly slides super-smoothly up and down this tube, and I'd prefer to use what Tak themselves use. The helical focuser doesn't matter so much. Do you know what this Superlube is based on?
Having read an old Cloudy Nights thread on the same subject the recommendation was the same as John's...Superlube which is a multi-purpose synthetic lubricant, containing Syncolon (PTFE) particles held in suspension and can handle variation in temperature.
I will still let you know what TNR comes back with.
+1 . For any bearings SuperLube spray (thin film) any gear/worm Superlube gel. I have used it over the years. Doesn't drip in the heat or clog in the cold. Good all rounder. Most importantly it doesn't mix with water. I had problems in the past with a whole bunch of other greases that got sticky when exposed to dew repeatidly.
The 774 series consists of silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon of various viscosities depending upon how much mechanical dampening is required of various components. The damping greases also provide good water resistance.
So you have two choices to start with, Superlube or Nyogel. If you go the Superlube don't use the spray on version..just my 2 cents worth.
I looked for SuperLube locally, but couldn't find any. I settled on a 30mg tube of "Inox MX6 with PTFE". This food-grade grease is fully synthetic, and is designed for both cold and hot temperature environments. It is waterproof and won't care about dew or ice.
Hans and David - thanks very much for the intro to damping grease. I'll see how the Inox goes, but will definitely investigate your recommendation. THe surfaces I'm working with in the Mewlon are all easy to clean off and re-apply new grease to whenever I like.
