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Old 14-07-2010, 10:21 AM
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sejanus (Gavin)
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Question for the Tak gurus

With the 106ED vs the 106N, can you use the f/3.6 reducer that they make for the 106ED on the older 106N?

cheers

Gav
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Old 14-07-2010, 11:37 AM
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I had a look in the system chart in an online copy of the FSQ-106N manual and it didn't mention the reducer at all. The fact that it's called a Reducer "QE" also seems to imply it's for the 106ED. Still, that doesn't prove it won't work. You could try asking here: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/UncensoredTakGroup/

Cheers,
Rick.
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Old 14-07-2010, 11:45 AM
jase (Jason)
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The F/3.6 reducer is only supported on the FSQ106-ED series, such as FSQ106-ED, FSQ106-EDX and FSQ106-EDXII.

It will not work on the earlier FSQ106 or FSQ106N models due to limited back focus.
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Old 14-07-2010, 02:32 PM
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sejanus (Gavin)
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thanks for that. bit of a bugger but f/5 is still decently fast.

thanks
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Old 14-07-2010, 03:21 PM
jase (Jason)
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Indeed, F/5 is a fast enough light cone. You've also got to think of the other aspects. FSQ operating at F/5 has a critical focus zone of 55 microns. This is quite a small window which is easily displaced as the ambient air drops, hence you need to refocus regularly if you want sharp looking data. Operating at F/3.6 drops the critical focus zone down to 28.5 microns. Here just the very slightest shift will result in softer data. Obviously with automated computer controlled focusing routines, its not a challenge, but expect to be refocusing every 20 to 30mins until the ambient air temperature has stabilised during the course of the night.
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Old 14-07-2010, 03:40 PM
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Octane (Humayun)
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There's got to be a way to bodgy up a solution. There's enough Takahashi adapters to build a house with, I'm sure a solution exists. :pray:

It's something I've been thinking about with my system. If it comes to it, mosaicing with 200mm or 300mm L-series glass, with aperture masks might be a better way to go.

H
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Old 14-07-2010, 04:17 PM
jase (Jason)
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No chance H. You can bodgy up the adapters to couple the reducer to the scope, but you will not reach focus. I pushed a note to Art from TNR (Main US tak dealer) to confirm.

FSQ106 @ F/5 has a BFD of 120mm
FSQ106ED @ F/5 has a BFD of 178mm

Many complain that they can't even get certain eye pieces to reach focus with the old FSQ due to its shorter BFD.

http://www.buytelescopes.com/Topic/1...cus-guide.aspx
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Old 14-07-2010, 04:18 PM
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Thanks, Jase.

H
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Old 14-07-2010, 04:27 PM
jase (Jason)
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Here's a good resource page for those interested in the FSQ series. Ronchi and Spot Diagrams included for the FSQ enthusiasts

Quote:
FSQ SERIES
1999/6: The new product FSQ-106 tube announcement (106-530). Modified Petzval desing, 4 lenses / 2 fluorite.
2000/6: New product FSQ-106N (Kai) tube announcement (106-530), lens shade becomes sliding system.
2007/1/30: New product FSQ-106ED tube announcement (106-530). Modified Petzval desing, 4 lenses / 2 ED.
2008/4/18: New product FSQ-85ED tube announcement (85-450). Modified Petzval desing, 4 lenses / 2 ED.
http://www.astrosurf.com/ilizaso/Tak...-106ED/FSQ.htm
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Old 14-07-2010, 05:06 PM
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I've spent plenty of time on that site.

H
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Old 14-07-2010, 05:57 PM
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Must admit a lot of the stuff on that website is over my head

Basically tossing up between a 2nd hand 106N or a brand new 106ED. I read that the 106ED doesn't produce as saturated colours as the fluorite based 106N which doesn't exactly sound like an improvement to me.

The 106N looks pretty good at this stage.
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Old 14-07-2010, 07:34 PM
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I have used both the FSQ106N and the FSQ106EDX.

Firstly the current version of the FSQ is the FSQ106EDX111.
It has replaced the unpopular captains wheel with a molded solid connection between the OTA and the focuser. It has a camera angle rotator.

I have said that before that the 106N series with the fluorite seemed to produce more colour saturation and colourful images than the 106ED.
I have had some say it is all the processor of the image and not the scope.

I disagree. I imaged extensively with both and processed the images the same way. The difference was the scope. Now why is another matter. I do not see ED lensed scopes in general doing worse than fluorite Tak doublets in the colour department. Usually quite the contrary as fluorite triplets are rare and Tak mainly made fluorite doublets which unfortunately were really high end semiAPO's.

Fluorite does have very little light scatter. It therefore has slightly better throughput. It may be very marginal though. Perhaps it is more likely something to do with the lens coatings which are clearly different.

The 106ED is probably sharper (the 106N is very sharp though).
The 106N had a slight problem with vignetting where bright stars along the edges of the image only, had a dark tunnel through them. I am told that was vignetting.

106N has a better focuser (stronger), better focuser lock (the 106ED causes focus shift when you fully lock it a real flub by Tak whose reputation for focusers is really great).

The 85ED has returned to a focuser setup that looks like the 106N so the Tak engineers probably know of this weakness.

The 106ED though has better backfocus (which means you can use your normal diagonal and could use binoviewers which you can't with the 106N).

Really the major feature for me is the 106ED reducer. It is a work of optical art and transforms the scope to even widerfield and F3.65 and superwidefield. The reducer as mentioned does not work on the 106N.
That question was often asked on the Tak uncensored site.

Yes Jase is right, F5 is plenty fast and wide enough. But the reducer opens up a whole new world and yes the critical focus zone becomes even narrower.

I would suggest a Robofocuser for either model. I just got a Robofocus with the special FSQ mounting plate plus I got the shaft connector specific to the FSQ106 otherwise Robofocus tends to wobble as the shaft connectors have too big an opening and cause a wobble of the motor.

As to the colour saturation issue I would also point out that Rob Gendler exclusively used the 106N and his widefield mosaics are to this day in my opinion unsurpassed for beauty and colour saturation. Just stunning.

Having said that the 106ED is a highend scope. FSQs rule the world of small wide field imaging and have been the best available scope for some time. I am told the Pentax 125 is like a 125mm FSQ (its also a Petsval).

An FSQ125ED would be an awesome future Tak product. Imagine a Tak FSQ150ED - oh my!

So either scope is a real gem and pretty much the best you can get for its aperture. The TMB105/6.2 was a competitor for a while. There is an AP scope that is about 106mm as well.

A 2nd hand 106N is quite a bit less than a new 106ED. Also keep in mind when you buy a Tak scope the first thing you realise is there is an extra $800+ needed to be spent on rings, finder scope, case etc. A 2nd hand one often has these expensive items included.

There may be a serious competitor with the just released TEC110mm eclipse fluorite triplet. It is US$4,500 which is pretty good as it comes with rings and a case I think. Yuri makes a field flattener for it and it is F5.6.I think that makes it about the same or close in price as a FSQ106EDX111 with rings and a case.

So you can have your fluorite and eat it too hehehe. No images from one yet so it is more of an expectation. I am expecting one in the coming few months and I can let you know what I think of it. TEC though make superlative scopes so I am expecting a lot from it. The main reason Yuri used fluorite is it enables him to get faster F ratios with the same colour correction. Colour correction is "easier" to achieve with higher F ratio scopes than fast F ratio scopes.

Greg.
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  #13  
Old 14-07-2010, 07:53 PM
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sejanus (Gavin)
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thanks heaps for that info Greg.

One question - does the 106ED vignette at all with the f/3.6 reducer?

edit - also, if you had to buy a Tak 106 - what would you get these days? The N or the ED? Price aside...

cheers
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Old 14-07-2010, 07:54 PM
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No, the differences are marginal Greg. If presented with data of the same target from both instruments, you'd be hard pressed to distinguish the difference.

Saturation is the dominance of a hue in a colour and is often referred to as colour intensity. What ever you wish to call it, it has very little to do with the instrument, but post processing. You can make hues pure (saturated) or grayscale (desaturated) as you see fit. To make sure we are all clear on the differences between hue and saturation, I've attached the below chart (no idea where it come from as I found it in work course material!). As you move into the center of the wheel, the hue of a particular colour becomes less dominate. At the center, no hue dominates and is therefore considered fully desaturated. Saturation is the dimension running from the outer edge of the wheel (fully saturated) to the center (fully desaturated). It is possible to reach the same level saturation with ED glass through post processing (if at all needed).
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Old 14-07-2010, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley View Post
It has replaced the unpopular captains wheel with a molded solid connection between the OTA and the focuser. It has a camera angle rotator.
The captains wheel certainly does suck when it comes to imaging. If you happen to also have the finder scope attached you can't rotate the imaging train a full 360 degrees as it typically bumps into the dovetail or mount plate. Very restrictive.

Not only that, if you want to do any framing/composition remotely, rotating the capitan wheel isn't an option. So you're left with the only option of locking down the wheel and putting on a CAA with Astrodon Takometer. That effectively turns a regular FSQ106ED into and EDXII as this is what Tak now provide (as you note Greg) to address such an issue. The captain's wheel was a bad idea IMO. With the CAA, rotating the camera is a breeze, even with a payload of MMOAG, U16M/wD9 cooling and filter wheel.
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Old 16-07-2010, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sejanus View Post
thanks heaps for that info Greg.

One question - does the 106ED vignette at all with the f/3.6 reducer?

edit - also, if you had to buy a Tak 106 - what would you get these days? The N or the ED? Price aside...

cheers
Yes there is vignetting with the reducer but it corrects with flats. All scopes that I have used do not produce an image that is even all the way across the image. Some require flats more than others. The Tak BRC250 for example, the FSQ106ED with reducer even the AP140 with reducer. But then the flats totally handle it. So is that really vignetting like you asked (implying something that can't be corrected in processing?) then no it does not vignette.


Now you've put me on the spot. I currently have the 106EDX with a camera angle rotator (one of Taks great accessories - such a nice piece of gear I am surprised other manufacturers don't copy it).

I think I would stick with the 106ED as I really like the reducer.
It also is smaller (shorter). The microfocuser is as good as it gets (better even than a feathertouch). The other points are small issues really.

As I say you'd be ecstatic with either. If money were an issue then the 2nd hand prices of nice 106Ns with rings etc would be really tempting knowing that in some ways it is better than the 106ED. If the reducer (which is not everyone's cup of tea) was your thing then the 106ED is the go. No other scope really can match it for the money - F3.65, pinpoint stars to the corners of a 16803 chip and 106mm aperture - WOW. If you wanted to use binoviewers then the 106ED is the choice (not sure you can even use binos on a 106N - probably not).

You are really comparing a US$2800 or even less scope (106N) with a US$4500 scope (106ED with rings etc). So its quite a bit more for the EDX. You might even scope a 106N with quick release finder brackets and a finder scope and a case for that sort of money. So they are a bargain for what is still a magnificent scope.

Plus when you bring it in GST is calculated on the higher price as well making the difference in price even more.

When considering the price, I say the 106N is the clear winner unless you really want the reducer or use binoviewers in which case the EDX is the go. If you want perfect colour correction then the 106ED is the go.

Greg.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jase View Post
No, the differences are marginal Greg. If presented with data of the same target from both instruments, you'd be hard pressed to distinguish the difference.

Saturation is the dominance of a hue in a colour and is often referred to as colour intensity. What ever you wish to call it, it has very little to do with the instrument, but post processing. You can make hues pure (saturated) or grayscale (desaturated) as you see fit. To make sure we are all clear on the differences between hue and saturation, I've attached the below chart (no idea where it come from as I found it in work course material!). As you move into the center of the wheel, the hue of a particular colour becomes less dominate. At the center, no hue dominates and is therefore considered fully desaturated. Saturation is the dimension running from the outer edge of the wheel (fully saturated) to the center (fully desaturated). It is possible to reach the same level saturation with ED glass through post processing (if at all needed).


I probably have all my 106N data. I may image the same target one day just out of interest to see if what you say is true (it may well be).

I think it was more the coatings rather than fluorite versus ED glass where the difference is a subtlety rather than a heavy difference. Both are amazing but I would always opt for fluorite all other things being equal if I could get it. The new coatings have an almost mustard colour whereas they used to be a grass green. I am sure the 2 coatings do not have the same properties. Roland Christen has done quite a lot of work on coatings. Roland talks down fluorite but then Tak used fluorite for years and marketed its advantages. TEC is now about the only fluorite scope maker. Yuri says there is a measurable difference but I think he mainly uses it to achieve faster F ratios with the same or better colour correction. Certainly my TEC180 has perfect colour correction - zero. Which is good for an F7 scope. But then so does my ED glass AP140 which is F7.5.

Roland produced that custom made 206EDF for Tony Hallas and put a lot of attention getting high end coatings. Tony's images with that instrument broke new ground on familiar objects much like the ASAs did at one point in Wolfgang's hands. It would seem coatings are a little world in themselves with their differences and qualities. But the highend coatings cost a lot so what we get on our scopes is not the same as what Tony Hallas got.

For the same price range this scope would outperform either of them, an AP130 F6 for $4000 negotiable - thats about $1900 under normal price unless there is something wrong with it:

http://www.astromart.com/classifieds...fied_id=691236

Oh I see, the guy has no ratings. Hmm - could be a scam. He has no posts, not posted an image, not posted anything, not sold anything before and suddenly a high end AP for $1900 less than normal. Risky.

Or this a Televue NP127is for $4700 (he'd probably take $4500 or less):

http://www.astromart.com/classifieds...fied_id=690526

I have also seen a Tak TOA130 on Astromart recently for under $4000. That would be hard to beat and better than
an FSQ106 in that it is a more versatile instrument (FSQ is really only widefield). There is a nice reducer available on a TOA130
and an extender as well giving F5.25 and F11 or so. It would need a G11 or better mount to handle it though.

There is quiter a large amount of choice around the US$4000 band and a larger aperture scope can be gotten.
I saw a TMB 152 going quite cheaply recently as well. The US guys are hurting financially so low demand plus the need for cash = bargains for us (for a change).


Greg.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jase View Post
The captains wheel certainly does suck when it comes to imaging. If you happen to also have the finder scope attached you can't rotate the imaging train a full 360 degrees as it typically bumps into the dovetail or mount plate. Very restrictive.

Not only that, if you want to do any framing/composition remotely, rotating the capitan wheel isn't an option. So you're left with the only option of locking down the wheel and putting on a CAA with Astrodon Takometer. That effectively turns a regular FSQ106ED into and EDXII as this is what Tak now provide (as you note Greg) to address such an issue. The captain's wheel was a bad idea IMO. With the CAA, rotating the camera is a breeze, even with a payload of MMOAG, U16M/wD9 cooling and filter wheel.
Yes the captains wheel was a bad idea. It was a nice feature on the Tak BRC250 which is perhaps where Tak got the idea from to use it on other scopes. But on the BRC the corrector had to be kept at the same distance from the primary mirror so the captains wheel made sense (the corrector fitted inside the captains wheel).

Greg.

Last edited by gregbradley; 16-07-2010 at 10:53 PM.
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  #17  
Old 17-07-2010, 02:52 AM
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Greg and Jase,

Can the microfocuser be retrofitted to the FSQ-106N?

Probably a moot point really as I'll be going the RoboFocus route.

H
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Old 17-07-2010, 09:23 AM
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thanks greg, I really appreciate all the info.
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Old 17-07-2010, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Octane View Post
Greg and Jase,

Can the microfocuser be retrofitted to the FSQ-106N?

Probably a moot point really as I'll be going the RoboFocus route.

H
There is a Tak microfocuser you can fit to the 106N. I had one on mine.
It isn't the same one as on the 106ED. It may pay to ask or I'll ask for you on the Takncensored site. My initial thought is no as the 106ED has a recess for the stiffening bracket of the microfocuser which is built in to the focuser unit. The original microfocuser add on is a good unit but I found mine a tad spongy but it worked. The new one is very firm and no sponge. It isn't 10:1 like the original I think it is 6:1. Very very nice, the best of any I have used including the more famous Feathertouch.

Robofocus is the way to go anyway. Make sure you get the custom mounting plate and also the correct shaft connector for that specific scope. Robofocus standard shaft connector has a hole which is a bit too large and it causes the unit to wobble. I just got proper mounting plates and exact connectors for all my scopes because of that. The wobble meant focus increments were more accurate going in than out or the other way round.

Greg.
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Old 17-07-2010, 01:18 PM
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Thanks, Greg. Appreciate the information.

Will be getting in touch with the RoboFocus mob in the not too distant future.

H
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