Help Collimating Skywatcher SW600

[roccop]

Hey Everyone,


A sincere Happy New Year to you all and your families.


I will get down to my question.


My SW600 looks like it may need collimating.



Need some help please.


I do not know where to start......well I have an idea but need the old fashioned advice from been there done that members who could assist me.


I dont want to send the tube away for it to be done....would rather tackle the task myself as a challenge.


Thanks


Rocco

[toc (Tim)]

Originally Posted by roccop

Hey Everyone,


A sincere Happy New Year to you all and your families.


I will get down to my question.


My SW600 looks like it may need collimating.



Need some help please.


I do not know where to start......well I have an idea but need the old fashioned advice from been there done that members who could assist me.


I dont want to send the tube away for it to be done....would rather tackle the task myself as a challenge.


Thanks


Rocco

I dont own a reflector, but I think this is my fav Collimation article:

http://www.andysshotglass.com/Collimating.html

and this thread is also useful:

http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthrea.../o/all/fpart/1

[roccop]

Thanks Tim,



I probably should be more descriptive about what I asking.....


I understand the principle behind collimating..........my querie is that at the base of the primary mirror are 3 small philips head screws.


Are these screws the ones that I adjust the primary mirror with or am I to remove the large black end cap/cover on the primary mirror side which would then expose the required screws to allow adjustments?



I dont want to touch the wrong screws.......just need to know from an owner of an sw600 whom has collimated as to what I should and should not be touching.

Andyshotglass is a great site and the collimation video is 100% helpfull but as i mentioned i need to know what areas/screws do what at the primary.


Cheers


Roc

[mill (Martin)]

You have to remove the black endcap.
Behind it are 6 screws, 3 bigger and 3 hex screws.
The big screws are to collimate the scope and the hex screws are to lock the mirror.
Undo the lockscrews first and then collimate the scope.
After collimation tighten the hex screws again (not too tight).

[roccop]

Sincere thanks Mill,


just what I was after.



Cheers



Roc

[RobF (Rob)]

Do you have a collimation tool to help Roc?
(cheshire or laser? - I find the cheshire no nonense and gives me great alignment)

[Spanrz (Brett)]

Originally Posted by RobF

Do you have a collimation tool to help Roc?
(cheshire or laser? - I find the cheshire no nonense and gives me great alignment)

+1 there.

I found using the cheshire the best to use first, then the use of a laser then use the "barlowed laser" procedure.
I found it most difficult to just use the laser on it's own.

The "barlowed laser" just shows even after standard laser collimation, how much you can still be out. (only by a few mm, but every mm is a fuzzy picture).
http://www.cameraconcepts.com/barlow...ollimation.pdf