Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley
Hi Doug,
Thanks for the tips. You lost me there on the A and E figures. What are they?
I used it for the first time last night and it was quite simple.
I have the simple directions for polar alignment printed and taped to one
of my counterweights for reference.
To verify north I simply pushed the scope a bit so the objective end of the scope (not camera end) was moved slightly in the direction of north and took an image to see which way the star moved to define "star drifting north or south".
It then became no different really to using a reticle eyepiece except way easier and less fuss and shifting everything around.
I think I improved my drift alignment siginifcantly in a fairly short time (25 minutes or so). I like it.
Unfortunately it clouded over but I wanted to see how the guiding errors went after this tweaking. I expect it was improved and longer sub exposures would have been possible with no rotation effects.
How closely do you try to get it? I am usually satisfied with practically no drift rather than this 15 minutes no drift I have read but never seen. Is it actually achievable? I have a Tak NJP mount with very low PE (3 arc seconds or less) and I don't think it will do it so I wonder.
Greg.
|
A & E = Azimuth East west and Elevation North south measures are in arc seconds. The G11 gives feedback in A and E accuracy whenever you do a star alignment. It creates a pointing model after 3 star alignment and improves its pointing model the more stars you synch on.
With the NJP you should be able to get your RA drift down to near nothing. JohnG has an NJP and I think from memory with a good alignment with Startag he is down to about 0.03 arc second accuracy.