Nexstar C11 Alt Az, EQ6

[Zuts]

Hi Guys,

I have a Nexstar C11 and was thinking of doing some imaging through it. This is crazy but, it has a Losmandy dovetail and I was thinking of putting the whole unit on the EQ6, without removing the OTA. Does anyone think this would work?

I have a wedge but the Celestron wedge is a pain to align and dont wish to use it.

To do this I would have to get a vixen to losmandy adaptor, hence the question as I cant just run out and test.

Paul

[bindibadgi]

I'm interested to hear people's opinions on this. I want to see photos too; it sounds like it would look rather ridiculous!

My completely uninformed opinion is that you'd be better off removing the OTA from the fork first because it would reduce the weight and the EQ6 would be more stable that way, especially for imaging. Of course I don't even have one so I don't know how easy that is to do.

[g__day (Matthew)]

I just re-read what you asked - you're disconnecting the OTA from the old mount right - so that only C11 OTA and Losmandy dovetail is all you're connecting to the EQ6 - else dis-regard what I suggest below.

* * * * * *

It very well could attach if you can mate the Losmandy dovetail (Presumeably a "D" type) to the EQ6. I mated my C9.25 with a Losmandy D dovetail to a Vixen Atlux by using the Takashi / Losmandy D connector (supplied from Bintel).

What does the head of your EQ6 look like - I had to remove the head of the Atlux (the vice taking a 40mm wide bar, connected by two screws 40mm seperated) and confirmed the Tak connector had holes 40mm apart (and takes the 100mm wide Losmandy D dovetail).

[Zuts]

Originally Posted by g__day

I just re-read what you asked - you're disconnecting the OTA from the old mount right - so that only C11 OTA and Losmandy dovetail is all you're connecting to the EQ6 - else dis-regard what I suggest below.

* * * * * *

It very well could attach if you can mate the Losmandy dovetail (Presumeably a "D" type) to the EQ6. I mated my C9.25 with a Losmandy D dovetail to a Vixen Atlux by using the Takashi / Losmandy D connector (supplied from Bintel).

What does the head of your EQ6 look like - I had to remove the head of the Atlux (the vice taking a 40mm wide bar, connected by two screws 40mm seperated) and confirmed the Tak connector had holes 40mm apart (and takes the 100mm wide Losmandy D dovetail).

Hi,

No this is not what I am suggesting. I am suggesting I just throw the whole thing on the EQ6, alt/az base and all. I dont want to remove the OTA as I would never get it back again, the ALT/AZ arrangement is great for viewing but no good for imaging, and i cant be bothered using the celestron wedge. So I thought point the Scope straight up on the ALT/AZ arms, lock the clutch and throw the whole thing on the EQ6.

I just looked at the manual and it weighs 30kg. So maybe it wouldnt work

No harm asking though.

[peter_4059 (Peter)]

30 kg's

At least EQ6 pros are cheap these days if you destroy it.

[jase (Jason)]

Originally Posted by Zuts

No this is not what I am suggesting. I am suggesting I just throw the whole thing on the EQ6, alt/az base and all. I dont want to remove the OTA as I would never get it back again

Paul, I initially thought you were kidding, then I realised you weren't. Don't take this the wrong way, but I have absolutely now idea what you were thinking! Crazy! Don't do it!

OK, back to reality...
Removing the OTA on the NexStar11 isn't as hard as you think...and yes, you can get it back together and be reassured the OTA will still perpendicular with the fork arms so your goto slews will still be accurate in Alt/Az. Sounds impossible, but I've done it.

Remove the external plastic cover of the lower arm that contains the control paddle insert. You'll see there is a large nut. This needs to be loosened, DONT remove it. Proceed to remove the screws that attach the OTA. Once all have been removed, the OTA is no longer fixed, but held in by pins - be very careful at this point. Slowly push the arm you loosened the large nut on. This will disengage the pin from the OTA and the OTA will be free. Putting it back is the reverse. The pins ensure the OTA is perpendicular again.

I'm probably making this sound easy, as its a little daunting the first time you do it...but Paul, think of those galaxies you can chase at 2800mm <grin> reality check however...not sure how the eq6 would handle such a focal length at 10 or 15 min subs! Give it a go, but don't blame me if you start tearing your hair out in frustration. Long focal length imaging isn't for the faint hearted. To get good results you need to invest money in a good mount (yeah yeah, everyone says this, but its true) and you need to have patience - seeing conditions can wreck havoc on resolution. Jeez I feel like a I'm stating the obvious. Anyway, its an all or nothing affair.

[Zuts]

No worries Jase, I guess I had a brain freeze and have decided I wont be attempting this feat

Yes , I was thinking about those galaxies at 2800mm; i have a GEG so may try it at 6.3 first, if i summon up the courage to pull the OTA off the mount.

Paul

Originally Posted by jase

Paul, I initially thought you were kidding, then I realised you weren't. Don't take this the wrong way, but I have absolutely now idea what you were thinking! Crazy! Don't do it!

OK, back to reality...
Removing the OTA on the NexStar11 isn't as hard as you think...and yes, you can get it back together and be reassured the OTA will still perpendicular with the fork arms so your goto slews will still be accurate in Alt/Az. Sounds impossible, but I've done it.

Remove the external plastic cover of the lower arm that contains the control paddle insert. You'll see there is a large nut. This needs to be loosened, DONT remove it. Proceed to remove the screws that attach the OTA. Once all have been removed, the OTA is no longer fixed, but held in by pins - be very careful at this point. Slowly push the arm you loosened the large nut on. This will disengage the pin from the OTA and the OTA will be free. Putting it back is the reverse. The pins ensure the OTA is perpendicular again.

I'm probably making this sound easy, as its a little daunting the first time you do it...but Paul, think of those galaxies you can chase at 2800mm <grin> reality check however...not sure how the eq6 would handle such a focal length at 10 or 15 min subs! Give it a go, but don't blame me if you start tearing your hair out in frustration. Long focal length imaging isn't for the faint hearted. To get good results you need to invest money in a good mount (yeah yeah, everyone says this, but its true) and you need to have patience - seeing conditions can wreck havoc on resolution. Jeez I feel like a I'm stating the obvious. Anyway, its an all or nothing affair.

[acropolite (Phil)]

Removing the OTA on the NexStar11 isn't as hard as you think...and yes, you can get it back together and be reassured the OTA will still perpendicular with the fork arms so your goto slews will still be accurate in Alt/Az. Sounds impossible, but I've done it.

Jase, interesting you say that, are the meades any different, I've heard that once dismantled they are very difficult to get re-aligned.

[jase (Jason)]

Can't speak for the newer LX200R's or RCX's Phil. I know if I had one of these, the first thing I'd do is rip the OTA off the fork arms and put it on a solid GEM.

Here are some general OTA realignment notes for the Meades. The two pins on either side of the NexStar arms alleviate these problems. If the OTA is not perpendicular, the pins wont match up. I'd be very surprised if Meade hasn't changed their design to match Celestron's in this regard.

http://www.aurorachasers.com/Astro/Lx200Alignment
http://www.mapug-astronomy.net/Astro...2/AlignOTA.htm