I have a Solenoid connected on a Auto fill water line to a swimming pool which should kick in when the water level drops and then stop when it reaches the right water level.
The last solenoid we had on this line seemed to have failed so a new one was purchased and this one as well does not seem to work either.
So could someone please tell me how might i test this device on dry land so to speak, and see it it actually kicks in and out with some current running through it.
There is power coming from the control box, I know that much as the testing light comes on when it is ready to fill the pool and then it promptly blows to 10Amp fuse when the solenoid is suppose to kick in.
I have a Solenoid connected on a Auto fill water line to a swimming pool which should kick in when the water level drops and then stop when it reaches the right water level.
Hi leon,
Just to be sure : Are you sure it's a solenoid as opposed to a perhaps a (heavy duty) microswitch, which also might be used in such an application? A picture perhaps and/or the specs from the unit you purchased.
Quote:
Originally Posted by leon
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There is power coming from the control box, I know that much as the testing light comes on when it is ready to fill the pool and then it promptly blows to 10Amp fuse when the solenoid is suppose to kick in.
It is a 24 volt unit
It sounds as if there is a short in the circuit wiring or solenoid itself. An electrician or tech would be a good place to start or if you are e-savy and have a multimeter and the device is unplugged and completely removed from the circuit there are some tests possible. Post an image of the device in situ and an image of the solenoid name plate or model number which may be on the body of the device, without unplugging it, unless you are supremely confident of your electrical/electronic skills.
Yes it probably is 24V as you say, but you never know what's nearby: perhaps a 240V AC relay or circuitry .... Careful
The chances of both your original solenoid failing, and a new one being defective, are very low indeed. The fact that the 10A fuse blows when the system is activated indicates that there is most likely a dead short in the circuit [as mentioned by JA]. Check all of the visible cable and connections for signs of damage. There is one other possibility. I assume that the solenoid is attached to a water valve. The valve might be stiff or jammed closed due to corrosion or foreign matter inside it, causing the current to increase enough to blow the fuse. If nothing found, get your local pool guru to look at it.
raymo
Last edited by raymo; 17-06-2023 at 02:07 PM.
Reason: more text
Thanks Raymo, I think it is best that I don't play around with the actual control unit which has so many wires i wouldn't know where to start, probably best to get a sparky in for a look.
I just wondered if one could test the unit when taken out of the system and using a Battery maybe to see it it clicks when touched on the terminals.
Your right two failing is probably not on and I do expect it will be in the actually control box somewhere, but not for me to find.
The water valve is fine and passes water manually.
Yes Leon the solenoid should click when testing this way. I’d even check the old one. Check for any corroded / broken wires from the control box to the pump also could be shorting out.
Good luck!
Can you post a photo of the solenoid? and the switch that controls it?
Also, you mention 24VAC, so you either have a wall wart plugged into an outlet or a transformer directly wired to your 240VAC. A photo of which one it is would be helpful.
My original training was in irrigation design and then valve sales.
Valve operating normally when operated manually -
Still blowing fuse, new solenoid -
Valve blockage (though none exists) has no relation to blowing fuse - these solenoids are designed to be active duty cycle for loooong extended periods.
Problem is probably further up the control line - eg transformer 240VAC to 24VDC is short circuiting.
The first photo shows where the solenoid is fitted on the auto fill line and then the unit itself.
The blue box is the control box with its lid on and then exposing the inside with many wires and gadgets.
And finally the fuse that blows each time the unit is connected.
So at this point I am a bit lost in what is causing this.
On the issue of the fuse: are you sure you have the correct type (fast or slow blow) and current / voltage rating as the fuse specified for the device. Post a high resolution photo of the fuse markings imprinted on the fuse itself and also of the fuse label inside the box. Do you have an electrician friend that could measure the current drawn at turn on through the fuse to make sure things are what they appear to be?
Hey JA the fuse is a F 10 L 250 V now i have to admit I could not buy the exact one as was in the unit so I settled for a 10 Amp from Bursons, no one else had them.
So maybe all this is my fault that wouldn't surprise me
Hey JA the fuse is a F 10 L 250 V now i have to admit I could not buy the exact one as was in the unit
I'm not saying that your problem is definetly related to a wrong fuse, BUT just to rule that out as a first step....
In what way was it different to the original fuse?
Is F 10 L 250V what is marked on the FUSE or inside the device near the fuseholder?
What exactly is marked inside the device near the fuseholder? Picture possibly.
If F 10 L 250V is marked on the fuse, then it's a FastBlow 10A 250V fuse. If the device POSSIBLY requires a slowblow 10A fuse, and i'm NOT saying that it does, then the fast blow fuse may blow where the slowblow type does not. It all depends on the circuit current draw and how fast it rises AND what the manufacturer specifies as required: Fast Blow or SlowBlow /timed fuse.
If you find you need a fuse you can't easily find try FUSECO a Victorian company that can help with all sorts of fuses..... https://www.fuseco.com.au/
NOTE:
Another possible cause of failure given the fuse blowing at turn-on*, is a faulty bridge rectifier (shorted diode/s). Defective capacitors can also cause such failure modes. In either case, those would be an electrician or electronic tech / manufacturer analysis/repair job *EDIT... Actually according to your initial comment it's not blowing at turn on but when the solenoid is about to engage so possibly not as I suggested above, but without the circuit diagram it's hard to know.
I noticed whilst looking at the Control Box picture that the active (brown) and neutral (blue) transformer primary winding connection wires appear to duck past the (potentially) sharp edge of the sheet metal inside the case. See the picture I marked up below. Have your electrician check this out for safety. I doubt it's shorting as then the mains fuse would blow, but it is very poor practice with the wiring to create such a pinch point, if I'm seeing things correctly and not being hoodwinked by the plan view.
The solenoid is rated between 6v to 12v according to what's written on the top, so easy enough to test just connect to a car battery. If it's ok it will click. Assuming the solenoid is ok it sounds like a fault in the wiring from the control box to the solenoid, or an internal fault in the solenoid control circuit on the control board, as it only happens when that part of the circuit is used.
Another thing one could try diagnostically is unplugging the solenoid wires whilst still leaving it in place To avoid leaks and run the system to see if the fuse is still blown
