I am very happy as I walked outside at 10 pm and the sky was clear so I grabbed the Nikon, the 50mm lens and the tripod.
yes tripod only... no tracking.
25 minutes using 5 second subs at 6400 iso and 50 dark frames.
could be better but I am very happy to be able to have a go.
Good Morning everyone and thank you very much for your kindness.
I only just now woke up.
Even though a simple rig and approach it had me up until late with all those little problems that creep in like the camera not downloading for no apparent reason and finally finding the problem..as so often a faulty cable.
But this image was achieved using the little lens I was ready to trash only a week ago.
AND to be able to open my van door and place the tripod at the bottom of my ramp and avoid the mud that is now everywhere just made me feel somewhat it control.
The other lens that I had hoped to use ( the one I wrote about as incapable of manual focus but then coming around) responded to manual focus however the camera must have refocused as the actual image was terrible being so out of focus it was depressing...so rather than fight with that lens I used the 50 mm which I was able to focus without a problem. 50 mm was more than I was happy with for the static tripod approach but I gave it a couple of tests and felt it could work.
But getting a result using a static tripod I was not particularly confident but I was not going to open the observatory given the clouds were no doubt ready to return.
The high ISO came thru better than I expected but the stacked image was hideously blue which I fixed as best I could when in StarTools...
I hope that folk who are considering astro photography gain something from my experience given I did not use an equatorial mount to take advantage of tracking...I did not use the 500 rule to determine exposure but selected 5 seconds because it was as short as I felt acceptable so it was just a guess really. Ordinarily I would have experimented but in these times one has to make a decision and go for it as the clouds will reappear ...as they did moments after I stopped capturing light frames in the hope that I could do something with what I had captured after only 25 odd minutes.
I was going to add flats to try out my new flash light pad ( with built in dimmer ..I even had the pieces of white bed sheet on stand by) but I was tired and as it was I was falling asleep when processing.
So please excuse me being slack.
I used my new intervalometer but as the exposures were only 5 seconds I could have got away without it but I want to become familiar with it as I really hopes to do some widefield with long exposures past 30 seconds which with the intervalometer one can do.
So my message to those folk wishing for an equatorial mount don't wait as if you have just a DLSR with a family snap lens and a tripod you can start now or at least when you get a clear sky. So give it a go..you will learn skills that are necessary when you get to run an equatorial mount..just doing it in the dark is such a big thing to get used to, the concentration to get focus, determining ISO and exposure time, andctgen you get to stack and process all of this will really help when you get further into the game.
I must add that I had to crop 20 % as I just let it run..I did want to repossition the camera every five minutes but did not to avoid wasting any time and perhaps stuffing the focus.
Not only were the clouds a threat but also dew how I got 25 minutes was really a surprise.
Further my skills with the dodge and burn tool in Photoshop came in handy particularly to minimise the vignetting which was very apparent on the right side of the image...but I would have liked to manage that issue via flat frames ..maybe next time.
Never have I needed something as much as I needed to bag this image as I wrote in general chat the wet is really getting to me and realistically I am a tuff sort of character but I had reached near breaking point..living alone is past most people but you need to be able to see some other humans, just for a while so not just going to the post office is very damaging...
Great example for beginners to show just what can be done with simple ' off the shelf ' equipment. Your short exposures has meant your stars are pin sharp and you've shot enough subs to increase the signal and reduce the noise. I really like what you've achieved here Alex. Well done!
...
Never have I needed something as much as I needed to bag this image as I wrote in general chat the wet is really getting to me and realistically I am a tuff sort of character but I had reached near breaking point..living alone is past most people but you need to be able to see some other humans, just for a while so not just going to the post office is very damaging...
Thanks for listening
Alex
Hi Alex,
Good on you for getting out there with a nice result
Quote:
Originally Posted by xelasnave
...
Further my skills with the dodge and burn tool in Photoshop came in handy particularly to minimise the vignetting which was very apparent on the right side of the image...but I would have liked to manage that issue via flat frames ..maybe next time.
There are a few ways to get rid of the vignetting:
Flat frames
Adjust the exposure in specific areas of the image in Photoshop
Dodge/Burn in Photoshop(your mehod)
Vignetting correction in Photoshop
Lens correction in Photoshop
Lens correction in Camera either for specific Nikon recognised lenses or general correction other lenses from Min to max
Of course flat frames are the most complete method as they handle your specific lens's characteristics in terms of vignetting and dust spots, BUT if you want a simpler / easier ride that corrects for the vignetting and other lens distortions then you should consider using Lens corrections in Photoshop. Photoshop recognises many lenses and can correct for their distortion, vignetting and somewhat correct for some chromatic abberation using Lens profiles for most lenses. I checked and your Nikon 18-55mm AF-P VR lens profile is listed in Photoshop CC2017. To employ lens profiles, open Photoshop, select and drag in your images to the Photoshop work space, whereupon an Adobe Raw Panel will open with the multiple images shown. You then select the Lens Icon (the 6th icon in the list in the TOP RIGHT) and CHECK "Remove Chromatic Abberation" and CHECK "Enable profile Corrections". Your lens may come up automatically or your can select it manually from a Maker's lens list. This change is made for the selected image you can then apply it to all your image set using the synchronise function. Try it - A Lazy No Flats method that does more than flats do, except for removing handling dust spots.
I will link to a great video by Tony Hallas which shows the method as well as other astro techniques and equipment.
It's an OLD video from 2014 and Adobe Raw is now a part of Photoshop so it looks different and lens corrections by maker and lens model are now included for most lenses, rather than the simple "vignetting correction" control shown in the video.
Watch the whole thing or go from the 12:40 minute mark for processing in Adobe Raw. https://youtu.be/PZoCJBLAYEs
I know Alex is an avid Startools user so when the developer Ivo Jager saw this video he had an important message to everyone out there using DSLR’s
Take it with a grain of salt if you wish but he’s not the only person who has difficulty with Tony’s presentations and some of his points.
Great example for beginners to show just what can be done with simple ' off the shelf ' equipment. Your short exposures has meant your stars are pin sharp and you've shot enough subs to increase the signal and reduce the noise. I really like what you've achieved here Alex. Well done!
Thank you Mick I really do hope others are inspired to take advantage of the wonderful things that enable us to do some great work without any expensive equipment
.
I can't wait to try more.
Good on you for getting out there with a nice result
There are a few ways to get rid of the vignetting:
Flat frames
Adjust the exposure in specific areas of the image in Photoshop
Dodge/Burn in Photoshop(your mehod)
Vignetting correction in Photoshop
Lens correction in Photoshop
Lens correction in Camera either for specific Nikon recognised lenses or general correction other lenses from Min to max
Of course flat frames are the most complete method as they handle your specific lens's characteristics in terms of vignetting and dust spots, BUT if you want a simpler / easier ride that corrects for the vignetting and other lens distortions then you should consider using Lens corrections in Photoshop. Photoshop recognises many lenses and can correct for their distortion, vignetting and somewhat correct for some chromatic abberation using Lens profiles for most lenses. I checked and your Nikon 18-55mm AF-P VR lens profile is listed in Photoshop CC2017. To employ lens profiles, open Photoshop, select and drag in your images to the Photoshop work space, whereupon an Adobe Raw Panel will open with the multiple images shown. You then select the Lens Icon (the 6th icon in the list in the TOP RIGHT) and CHECK "Remove Chromatic Abberation" and CHECK "Enable profile Corrections". Your lens may come up automatically or your can select it manually from a Maker's lens list. This change is made for the selected image you can then apply it to all your image set using the synchronise function. Try it - A Lazy No Flats method that does more than flats do, except for removing handling dust spots.
I will link to a great video by Tony Hallas which shows the method as well as other astro techniques and equipment.
It's an OLD video from 2014 and Adobe Raw is now a part of Photoshop so it looks different and lens corrections by maker and lens model are now included for most lenses, rather than the simple "vignetting correction" control shown in the video.
Watch the whole thing or go from the 12:40 minute mark for processing in Adobe Raw. https://youtu.be/PZoCJBLAYEs
Best
JA
Thanks you so much for taking your time to help me. I do appreciate it and believe me I do not take it for granted.
I tried to use the lens we were discussing and although I could manually focus when I took the photo it was really way out of focus..I can't explain what happened and admittedly I did not even try to work out what was going wrong as I changed immediately to my little 50 mm lens which is another cheapie..because I knew I had a window of clear sky that would not last...the lens we discussed is the one I would like to use as the shorter the focal length the better for this static tripod thing obviously but I just love getting in as much Milky Way as possible.
I suspect that even having manually focused with the lens we talked about ( and things looked good on screen blown up nice and sharp) the camera at some point tries to refocus...I suspect..unless I bumped it which I will look to next time I try...and it may be crude but if I get another chance I will blue tack the focuser ring once focused..now the camera may not work until it has its way with focus but its behaviour will identify that issue...
Thanks again I am looking forward to watching the video.
I know Alex is an avid Startools user so when the developer Ivo Jager saw this video he had an important message to everyone out there using DSLR’s
Take it with a grain of salt if you wish but he’s not the only person who has difficulty with Tony’s presentations and some of his points.
When I started with my DSLR I use to follow Tony and Jerry Lodriguss all the time
NB: This is not meant to bag Tony merely to point out some shortcomings in the presentation
He is a very experienced and superb DSLR Astrophotographer ( so is Jerry )
Cheers
Martin
Thanks Martin.
I will judge and take what I can use.
In general I try things and often find I use approaches that are different and break the rules but for whatever reason work for me..my approach to gain for example...and with this current shot the ISO is perhaps to high but I doubt going for say 800 would have produced a result.
Mind you I do feel embarased when I read up on gain for example ..not entirely but I must annoy folk who are not so casual as me.
Thanks you so much for taking your time to help me. I do appreciate it and believe me I do not take it for granted.
I tried to use the lens we were discussing and although I could manually focus when I took the photo it was really way out of focus..I can't explain what happened and admittedly I did not even try to work out what was going wrong as I changed immediately to my little 50 mm lens which is another cheapie..because I knew I had a window of clear sky that would not last...the lens we discussed is the one I would like to use as the shorter the focal length the better for this static tripod thing obviously but I just love getting in as much Milky Way as possible.
I suspect that even having manually focused with the lens we talked about ( and things looked good on screen blown up nice and sharp) the camera at some point tries to refocus...
That is what is happening I would suggest as the camera is still in one of the autofocus modes (AF-S, AF-C or AF-A), it needs to but put in to MF manual focus mode via the menu. Unfortunately the D5500 Nikon does not have a direct Focus Mode button on the camera body (cost saving / design simplicity ???)
if you press the "i" button on the rear of the camera it should bring up a menu where you can change the Autofocus mode shown in the picture below as the yellow box in AF-A focus mode. Change it in to MF or manual focus mode using either the touch screen or navigation buttons. ...
That is what is happening I would suggest as the camera is still in one of the autofocus modes (AF-S, AF-C or AF-A), it needs to but put in to MF manual focus mode via the menu. Unfortunately the D5500 Nikon does not have a direct Focus Mode button on the camera body (cost saving / design simplicity ???)
if you press the "i" button on the rear of the camera it should bring up a menu where you can change the Autofocus mode shown in the picture below as the yellow box in AF-A focus mode. Change it in to MF or manual focus mode using either the touch screen or navigation buttons. ... Attachment 290727
Best
JA
Thanks JA you are a champion even if it does not work ...I am getting negative I know thinking the worst...If or when, being now very positive, I get my first photo I will include you as part of the procedure.. I know..Camera Nikon D5500, Stacking Deep Sky Stacker.. Technical Adviser and Lens Control JA.
I have seen that screen ( or very similar) so will see what can be done...one way or the other you have held me off buying a new staradventurer goto mount and another Nikon with a twin lens kit or a Red Cat or both..the wet has me buying stuff that I don't need..
AND although others probably can fault my cheap 50 mm lens I must say that I am very happy with my image and therefore the lens...I expect longer exposures with it on the eq5 at lower ISO and having time to be more careful it will do a job that will be acceptable to me.
I think I paid around $170 for that 50mm and that is a mere fraction of what one can pay as you know.
Thanks again but probably won't do testing tonight as it looks like we may get more rain on top of the rain that I am getting now.
That is what is happening I would suggest as the camera is still in one of the autofocus modes (AF-S, AF-C or AF-A), it needs to but put in to MF manual focus mode via the menu. Unfortunately the D5500 Nikon does not have a direct Focus Mode button on the camera body (cost saving / design simplicity ???)
if you press the "i" button on the rear of the camera it should bring up a menu where you can change the Autofocus mode shown in the picture below as the yellow box in AF-A focus mode. Change it in to MF or manual focus mode using either the touch screen or navigation buttons. ... Attachment 290727
Best
JA
JA
I have found and changed the setting to M and so far my test are positive in that I can focus manually and the focus stays put such that my photo is in focus.
One handy hint, before I forget - a strip of gaffa[*] (gaffer's?) tape or masking tape on the lens focus ring after you've got it focused will stop it shifting if you bump it.
[*] - That cloth-like stuff that tears really easily but sticks to anything.
