Hi all
well after months of waiting, my 12" Lightbridge arrived. The guys from Bintel have been great and now the Lightbridge is at home with me in Daylesford The Lightbirdge came with the 26mm wide angle eye piece, but I also purchased a 15mm wide angle, a 3 x barlow lens and polarised moon filters. I also purchasd an Orion Collimating Eyepiece and a laser Collimator so I seem to be set to start off.
I've had been reading a few threads about some mods prior it its arrival(thanks astronut!).
I have changed the primary and secondary collimation screws with knobs from http://www.astronomy-shoppe.com/ and also changed the springs (from the same place) for the primary mirror.
I think I'm getting the hang of collimation, the laser makes it easier I must say, but boy, so much more to learn. Took the scope out last night (not the best viewing as there was some cloud, but I had to get out there!). Had some problems with the focus and I don't think I cooled in time so things were pretty fuzy - will try again tonight.
I have a question with regard to the Collimation Lock screws. Now that I have replaced the collimation adjustment screws with the springs and knobs, do I need the lock screws? Do I just get rid of them? If so, why? does it make a difference?
Also, I'm sure I read a thread a while ago about some boxes that someone made for the lightridge to make travelling easier and safer, but I can't find it anywhere now - have any other lightbridge owners got carry boxes made?
Would appredciate any other hints I may have missed. Now looking forward to going to some star parties and viewing nights.
Congrats Martin on your purchase. Looking forward to some writeups and progress reports.
If you do a search on 'transit cases' in the forum, I think this is waht your after (Spacezebra).
Can I asked if you looked at getting Bob's Knobs as opposed to the screws from Astronomy Shoppe - is there much of a muchness? I wonder if anyone can comment if one lot of collimation replacement screws/springs after better than the other.
Hi norm
from what I have read, I don't think there is a difference between Bob's Knobs and the knobs from astronomy-shoppe.com. I believe that Bintel are now stocking Bob's Knobs.
Astonomy-shoppe does have "rescue" kits - so you can choose which one you get. I got Resuce Kit which contains Primary and Secondary Collimation Screws, & Springs.
There is also the Complete RescueKit: which contains the LB Collimation Screws, Springs, & Azimuth Knob, but so far I am finding the Azimuth Knob that comes with the Lightbridge OK, so not sure what the Azimuth Knob fromthe rescue kit actually offers you- perhaps someone cna elaborate.
I'll do a search on 'transit cases' and see what comes up - thanks
Martin, you should be able to get rid of the lock screws, I think the way they are positioned means they don't actually act as proper locking screws anyway. How have you found the 26mm QX eyepiece?
And apart from the different shape of the knobs I don't think there is much difference in brands, though I think Astronomy-Shoppe is probably a little cheaper.
Yes, I too ended up removing the locking screws - just replaced the collimation springs with stronger and longer springs. Picked up very strong springs from Bunnings and cut in half. Collimates in a jiff!!
Astronut has undertaken some serious mods to the LB12 and worth having a look at what he has done.
Hi Martin, to The Lightbridge Club!!!!
When it clears, you'll see the amazing ability of this scope.
There isn't any difference between either set of knobs, just when I bought mine Bob hadn't released his yet.
The reason for the azimuth knob in the Rescue kit is that the bottom of the mirror tube scrapes over the top of the knob on its way through.
The solution is either buy a new knob, or you can sand down the existing top using coarse sandpaper. Then to finish it off use very fine paper for a smooth finish.
The reason that you don't need the lock screws is because now you have much stiffer springs, this will help keep collimation and makes the lock pins unnecessary.
Martin you've carried out the most important mods.
Others that you'll find important, powder coat the end rings black and eventually a dew/light shield.
Most of all enjoy your scope, and there's always help here when you need it.
Spacezebra (Petra) bought cases for her 12"LB, I'm sure she can help.
For ease of collimation go to www.andysshotglass.com there is a easy video that takes you through it.
Have fun, John.
John, I noticed with yours you have a dew shield, so that is also next on the list. Mind my ignorance, but which part are the end rings that you powder coated black? Do I just take it in to one of those powder coating places and they do it?
You will have to remove all 4 rings from your new baby, and get the whole ring powder coated flat black.
Just check the yellow pages for someone local.
Depending on their workload, it could take up to a week.
Look down your scope and see the white ring surrounding your mirror, this is "bad medicine" The internals of any scope should be as non reflective and black as possible.
Martin,
Here is a out of focus (sorry) image of the area around the rear cell.
You will notice it's nice and black. Very few reflections.
Check yours and you will see a big white ring, too many reflections are caused by this. Also the image contrast will suffer.
I see what you mean about the white inside the upper tube - just had a good look in there. So when you say to remove all 4 rings, are you talking about the cross points that hold the secondary mirror in place?
NO!!! Don't remove the spider. On each end of the two tubes there is a ring held in place by 6 screws. Unscrew these and lift them off the tube.
The first three are easy, but the last one supports the mirror, so be careful!!
You will have to remove the mirror just like when you replaced the springs. DO NOT take the mirror off it's cell, only the end ring.
I hope I explained this clearly
Hi John
OK, I see what you mean by the 6 screws that hold the rings. And you're right, I think the first 3 would be easy enough, but the one at the bottom of the primary mirror tube - gee - I get the sweats just thinking about it .
I may just wait a bit with that one - let me get my confidence up
On a much better note, just got back from some viewing. OK, WOW! Great scope. My first was M42 - WOW! Saturn got a good viewing as well WOW!
And everyone is right, it's all about getting out there and trying differnt lenses and learning. So thanks all - still a long way to go, but I'm going to enjoy the journey.
Oh, and Petra and John
thanks for the link to the transit cases thread.
Petra, so as not to reinvent the wheel, I noticed in the thread you had some order details. Can you PM them through please and I will call the guys next week to order the cases.
Yes, it will make all the difference. Light being reflected off this will affect the primary and especially the secondary.
The LB's look good in all white (on the outside) but the inside should always be as much flat black as possible.
With too much light light bouncing around the tube, you will have a loss of contrast.
John
just looking at the bottom ring with regard to removal to get powder coated.
That also has the input plug for the fan - was it a hassle disconnecting it - from memory, you have modified that to use another 12volt supply is that right?
So to remove the bottom ring, if you looseen the 3 collimation knobs, remove the spings and then take off the bottom ring using the 6 screws, what happens to the mirror - is it being held on by anything else or does it just drop down - being really, really careful.
when changing the collimation knobs when I first got it, the instructions were always "make sure you change the knobs one at a time, one at a time. . . ."
Congratulations on the new Lightbridge Martin.. I know how you felt waiting. My new Lightbridge 10" is on a truck somewhere as we speak so should get it next week hopefully.
to The Lightbridge Club!!!!
The internals of any scope should be as non reflective and black as possible.
.
- still a long way to go, but I'm going to enjoy the journey.
