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Old 22-10-2015, 09:40 AM
glend (Glen)
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Mono Canon DSLR & Cold Finger Build

Following on from the work done last year on my colour, full spectrum, cooled 450D I've decided to use the spare 450D that I have on hand to build a mono version with updates to the cold finger setup.
First I have to thank Rowland (rchesire) for all the work he did developing and sharing the copper cold finger design.

Recently CentralDS (in South Korea) have started to offer debayering of CMOS sensors as one of their services. Normally this debayering is offered in conjunction with one of their camera products, but is also offered as a standalone mod on some recent models. In discussions with Yun Lee at CentralDS they have agreed to debayer my 450D sensor. Rather than attempt the debayering myself I decided to trust the work to them. The sensor assembly has been sent off to them for debayering. Cost of this is $300USD. Note that JTW does not offer a debayering service anymore, but still publish the instructions for people wishing to try it themselves at their own risk.

The debayering will give me a 12 megapixel (5.2 micron) mono sensor. This is a significant improvement on the resolution available in the bayer matrix colour version, as all the pixels will be collecting photons all the time; unlike the colour version which has some red, some blue, and more green. For a detailed explanation of how the bayer matrix works look here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayer_filter

The initial plan is to use the mono camera for B&W luminance imaging, and narrowband from my observatory. I am leaving RGB imaging for later, once I get through the learning curve for B&W and narrowband - and decide how I would manage filter swaps.

Just a note on RGB filters for mono DSLRs, Astromonik is now offering EOS clip-in RGB filter sets for mono Canons:
http://www.astronomik.com/en/news/RG...er-as-Clip_EN/


So, to the build, I have attached some photos of the strip down of my spare 450D, which is basically as per Gary Honis' excellent guide to DSLR mods which I used last year. My sensor was already full spectrum so there was no need to do any work to it before it went off to CentralDS (and saved alittle money as I don't need to pay them to do that).
The copper cold finger shown in the photo below, is exactly the same as the one in my colour camera (and in Rowland's). I have two possible TECs to be tested: the same 40v40mm 5.8Amp unit used in my colour camera, and a 8amp unit of the same size. I expect the 5.8amp unit will be the final choice for power efficiency as it gives an adeqaure delta T of -25C, and there is really no reason to push the cooling below -5C.

The temperature setpoint controller and power management will be the same unit I built for the colour camera, and as it is attached to the camera by a six wire cable I can simply use the same wiring scheme on the mono camera and just have a single controller for both cameras.

While the sensor is off in South Korea I will be rethinking the argon system and condensation/frost management. Bagging the camera works really well but requires changing from time to time as leaks develop in use, and it makes camera port access an issue. I'd like to create an argon chamber around the sensor and this maybe feasible.

I have included a photo of my step by step tear down "Run Sheet", which I find very helpful in managing all the little screws that need to be removed in a certain order, as reassembly is made easy by just going backwards through the run sheet. Regardless of how many times I tear down a camera I always use this "Run Sheet" to manage the parts and steps. The removed components are kept in a sealed bag until needed again.

More to come.
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Last edited by glend; 22-10-2015 at 09:57 AM.
  #2  
Old 22-10-2015, 08:09 PM
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Try, try, try again ....
Thanx for posting the pix, I can have a think about my cold finger idea for the 450D.
  #3  
Old 23-10-2015, 09:38 AM
glend (Glen)
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So just been researching potential dry chamber designs and solutions and ran across some information on dessicant paper products which seem to be a very good solution to getting a rechargable dessicant inside the camera near the sensor. There is this company in California that makes strips of rechargable dessicant paper (silica) and special camera anti-fog strips:


https://www.sorbentsystems.com/dessic_paper.html

scroll down to the camera anti-fog strips.

This same sort of product is available locally for GO-Pro cameras here:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12pcs-GoP...-/311402797047

there are a few ebay sellers of this product.

I will be ordering some of these to start testing as internal camera dessciant.
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Old 23-10-2015, 02:00 PM
glend (Glen)
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After further research I have decided to get CentralDS to install the Astronomik MC clear cover glass after they do the sensor debayering. The debayering process yields a highly reflective sensor surface and the original Canon sensor coverglass is too reflective - resulting in bouncing light (apparently). This utube video explains it better than I can:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwYmmNtGTqg

This is not an issue if your leaving the bayer matrix alone (OSC) but for Mono conversions it should be considered. The alternative might be to run an Astronomik Clear Clip-In, or even a Baader Clear or UV/IR screw-on filter on the front of the T-adaptor, but having it down just above the sensor provides a sealed chamber and protective surface above the sensor face (that's my logic anyway). And of course the Anti-Alysing (Low Pass 1) is no longer required.
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Old 30-10-2015, 08:31 AM
glend (Glen)
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Revisting the heat sink/fan components for the Mono version of the 450D, I want to find one that uses heat pipes but with less weight and height of the Deep Cool unit I used on the colour camera. The Coolmaster unit i considered turned out to have bad reviews so i am reviewing that choice now.

This post was edited to remove the unit with the bad review.

Last edited by glend; 01-11-2015 at 09:01 PM.
  #6  
Old 30-10-2015, 11:33 AM
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I have one of those or very similar...?
  #7  
Old 30-10-2015, 09:47 PM
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I bought one of those the other day. It's relatively light and the base fits neatly on a 40mm Peltier.

But the heat sink and fan are huge, and the fan direction isn't reversible.
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Old 30-10-2015, 10:13 PM
glend (Glen)
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Hmm, you can't just turn the fan over? It is held on with locking springs. Which way do you want it to blow?
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Old 30-10-2015, 11:55 PM
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Not without putting risers on the exposed side of the fan - only one side has a spoke structure to support the fan, the other side is open and flush, so if you flip the fan over the fan blades scrape the heat sink fins.

Having customised PCs for years, my preference was to draw air from all directions over the heat sink fins and pushed away by the fan. I suppose it doesn't really make much difference in the end, but as shipped the fan would blow the air over the heat sink fins and towards the TEC.
  #10  
Old 31-10-2015, 12:34 AM
glend (Glen)
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I have other fans I can put on it if needed. A proper heatsink configuration is harder to find than a fan. I may do some testing on TEC efficency with the fan blowing both ways. I don't really think it makes much difference as my TEC and coldfinger are insulated on the cold side with closed cell foam.

Last edited by glend; 01-11-2015 at 09:03 PM.
  #11  
Old 31-10-2015, 08:29 AM
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Yeah that'd be interesting. I was just surprised that the fan wasn't reversible, they usually are.
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:08 PM
glend (Glen)
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I have given up on the proposed fan/heatsink - found a review of its performance and it was pretty bad compared to competitors. So search is back on. I can always go with my Deep Cool max.
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Old 01-11-2015, 10:23 PM
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I'll persevere with it and see how it goes, but I also dug out a few of my old PCs today which have extra units I can scavenge. CPUs from that era commonly output >130W and I never had a problem over clocking them
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:20 AM
glend (Glen)
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The Cool Master Geminii Low Profile M4 cooler arrived today so despite the bad reviews (which I found after I bought it) I have done some testing with it. The heat sink itself is pretty good, and cools off very quickly with the fan at top speed. The fan however, it rubbish, it vibrates badly (transmitting to the TEC mount and ulimately to the camera sensor), even with rubber feet on the heatsink. The fan feels like it has an eccentric wobble somewhere.
I did a side by side comparison test with my old Deep Cool Gammaxx 200 on the colour camera and the Deep Cool produces no vibration through to the cold finger (due in part to the great bearing on the fan and some to the silicon mounting pads). Hard to believe there was only a couple of dollars difference in price, but I guess if its inside a Computer case people don't care to much about vibration. In a year of shooting with the colour camera at sub lengths up to ten minutes there has been no sign of vibration 'fuzziness' getting to the image - its that good.
So the Cool Master heat sink might be usable but the fan is going to be replaced if I use the heat sink on this or some other project.
A couple of photos attached, the side by side profile shows what I was trying to achieve with a low profile heat pipe - reduce the mass and bring it closer to the camera centreline.
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Old 02-11-2015, 02:56 PM
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My fan doesn't seem to suffer that ailment, but having dug up my older custom PCs I have other fans I can try now, so I will be investigating that also.

Heat pipes seem to be all the rage now, but I'm not convinced...I think I'd prefer a large heatsink with lots of thin fins radiating from the CPU foot print, but I guess that's a sign of the times with coolers needing to be elevated above the increasingly crowded motherboard.
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Old 02-11-2015, 03:21 PM
glend (Glen)
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Dunk, all heat pipes are not created equal, especially for astro camera use. There are three types of heat pipes, all determined by the internal pipe design: grooved internal walls, wicking in the pipes, and sintered pipe walls. Of the three types only sintered perform at all attitudes, the other depend on gravity for flow back. Since an astro camera may assume different attitudes to the ground in use, only the sintered pipes will give consistent cooling results at all attitudes. There is a research paper that I saw on this subject and I think I linked it in to Rowland's thread last year. I will try to locate it again, it's an interesting read. The thing is, not many suppliers mention what kind of heat pipe architecture thry use. Deep Cool do mention that theirs are sintered which is why I went with them on the colour camera. I have no idea what Cool Master pipes use.
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:19 PM
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Ah that's interesting Glen. We should be able to put this to the test by orienting the heat pipes in different directions and watching if the effectiveness changes.
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:48 PM
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Dunk, found that link; here is the link to the IEEE Paper that compared the performance of the various heat pipe capiliary architecture types in different orientations. It's full of wonderful graphs and as you'd expect they explain the test rig setup and procedures. After reading the Conclusions I was convinced that only sintered heat pipes should be used in our cameras.

https://www.enertron-inc.com/pdf/res...ientations.pdf
  #19  
Old 06-11-2015, 12:14 PM
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Have started thermal testing of the new heatsink/fan combo for the mono camera. Heatsink is the Coolmaster Geminii M4 Low Profile but I ditched the awful fan it came with and stuck on a Noctua NF-F12 Industrial fan which will run at 2000rpm. The fan is setup to push air through the heatsink, so it's pushing towards the TEC but this is probably optimal for this fan, which has great push but would not be as good as a pull type. In the final config on the camera the TEC is backed with the carbon fibre bracket so pushed air will deflect off that much like it did off the counter in the photo.

The test jig was put together with a Jaycar 51W/6amp TEC (same one used on the colour camera), and a single 40x40mmx1.2mm copper backing plate on the TEC cold side to simulate a cold finger. This arrangment was sandwiched together with Coolmaster thermal paste and clamped with cable ties. A temperature sensor was taped to the rear of the copper plate and a piece of insulation foam placed over that. Photos of the test rig are attached below.

It was all wired up to my temperature and PWM control box that I use for the colour camera. Room temperature was 24C during the test. On power up the test plate temperature dived quickly to below 0C and stopped at my normal setpoint of -5C. I reset the setpoint for -10C and it moved down to that and stopped. I reset the setpoint again to -15C and it took abit longer but eventually (within three minutes) reached it and held steady. The hysterisis around the setpoint was greater than normal but there was less copper mass attached as a finger, and less insulation.
So that's a Delta T of -39C not bad at all, however, measuring directly on a the small copper plate behind the TEC cold plate is always going to show a good result. I won't know definitively until the cold finger is tested in the camera.
Photos attached.
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:44 PM
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Geez, Frostbite is likely to set in ....
Good work..
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