Upgrades to do

[PeterEde (Peter)]

Ok I have my nice new Skywatcher ED80. Already plan on goto drive at some point.
What else if anything is worth upgrading? As a newbie am I just better off learning with what I have and if necessary buying better in future. Obviously the upgrade path is the dearer option in the long run.
I have the std 25 and 100 mm eye pieces. To max out I need 5mm but that's probably going to cause more trouble than it's worth so I was thinking of just going to 6 or 8? Thoughts?

cheers
Peter

[omegacrux (David)]

Hi Peter
If your scope came with a single speed focuser its worth changing over to a dual speed 10/1 GSO make a reasonably cheap one .
Mine works well
And yes an ed80 can handle a 5mm
I have used a 3mm in mine but (a big BUT) only in very steady conditions 5-6mm easy and work well

David

[dannat (Daniel)]

a 560mm f/l you prob want to use close to 150x on planets & the moon, which is roughly a 4mm ep -hard to get a decent 4mm ep which you don't have your eye stuck against -maybe buy a quality barlow & purchase an 8 or 9mm -the stock 10mm ep is usually not much good -though the 25mm should be quite usable as a finder ep

[PeterEde (Peter)]

Originally Posted by omegacrux

Hi Peter
If your scope came with a single speed focuser its worth changing over to a dual speed 10/1 GSO make a reasonably cheap one .
Mine works well
And yes an ed80 can handle a 5mm
I have used a 3mm in mine but (a big BUT) only in very steady conditions 5-6mm easy and work well

David

Thanks David
Yes I only have single speed focuser. Does the dual also have better control over creep with the weight of a camera attached?

Originally Posted by dannat

a 560mm f/l you prob want to use close to 150x on planets & the moon, which is roughly a 4mm ep -hard to get a decent 4mm ep which you don't have your eye stuck against -maybe buy a quality barlow & purchase an 8 or 9mm -the stock 10mm ep is usually not much good -though the 25mm should be quite usable as a finder ep

Since this is my first scope and my baseline for good is the eyepieces that came with. Which I think give very sharp clear images. What brand eyepieces would be normal to purchase for a scope such as my Skywatcher?
I'll check out the local stores tomorrow and see what I can find.
Thanks Daniel

I am impressed I must say with the clarity of images I see. So far though my views have only been of the Sun and Moon.

Cheers
Peter

[omegacrux (David)]

Your single speed should have a lock screw underneath to stop creep .
The dual speed has much better focus control especially with the camera
Even with the 10/1 it is very small movements , the difference between a good photo and an ok pic

Ps they also take great wildlife pictures

David

[astro744]

A Nagler 3-6mm Zoom eyepiece (or 6-3mm as Tele Vue now call it) works very well with my ED80 and will work well on any ED or APO of around 600mm focal length. You get 100x to 200x magnification with the ED80 with click stops at 1mm increments and variable magnification in between. Focus and apparent field remain unchanged when zooming.

Yes it costs as much as the telescope but it may just be what the OP wants. If you can get one used even better but join the queue. I personally think at $489.00 (current price) it's an absolute bargain for what is in essence multiple eyepieces.

[PeterEde (Peter)]

Originally Posted by omegacrux

Your single speed should have a lock screw underneath to stop creep .
The dual speed has much better focus control especially with the camera
Even with the 10/1 it is very small movements , the difference between a good photo and an ok pic

Ps they also take great wildlife pictures

David

I found the lock screw but using it often means slight change in focus. I think a dual focuser is in order. I do hate out of focus shots.

Originally Posted by astro744

A Nagler 3-6mm Zoom eyepiece (or 6-3mm as Tele Vue now call it) works very well with my ED80 and will work well on any ED or APO of around 600mm focal length. You get 100x to 200x magnification with the ED80 with click stops at 1mm increments and variable magnification in between. Focus and apparent field remain unchanged when zooming.

Yes it costs as much as the telescope but it may just be what the OP wants. If you can get one used even better but join the queue. I personally think at $489.00 (current price) it's an absolute bargain for what is in essence multiple eyepieces.

$500 is a little out of my price range atm. But it does sound like a worthwhile investment. I've read that anything beyong 120X is over doing the ED80?
I guess that's up to the individual to determine.

Thanks for the input Astro

[astro744]

Originally Posted by PeterEde

I've read that anything beyond 120X is over doing the ED80?
I guess that's up to the individual to determine.

Thanks for the input Astro

Your exit pupil at 120x with 80mm telescope is 80/120 = 0.667mm (Or to get 120x you need 5mm eyepiece; exit pupil = 5/7.5 = 0.667 (7.5=f/ratio)).

The image starts getting a bit dim below 0.5mm exit pupil and/or floaters in your eye become visible. Some people have no problem with 0.35-0.4mm exit pupil. With an 80mm/f7.5 telescope you get the following:

6mm eyepiece = 0.80mm exit pupil and 100x mag.
5mm eyepiece = 0.67mm exit pupil and 120x mag.
4mm eyepiece = 0.53mm exit pupil and 150x mag.
3mm eyepiece = 0.40mm exit pupil and 200x mag.

Given you have a refractor with unobstructed view, 200x with a 3mm eyepiece would be achievable readily albeit the image may be a little on the dim side but it does depend on the object as to whether that is a problem or not.

An alternative to the zoom would be say a 5mm T6 Nagler giving you 120x and 0.67 deg. true field. This will give you the full lunar disk with a nice amount of room to spare at 120x. Wow! The Type 6 Naglers do come up used on this site often at good prices.

I find 120x only just enough for planets like Jupiter & Saturn and often crave for more power although the image at 120x always looks sharper and that depends a lot on seeing.

Just some suggestions and yes expensive but with eyepieces, if you buy quality, you can use them on any telescope and they will always perform well.

Whatever you choose, enjoy!

[PeterEde (Peter)]

Well I'll head into town early and see what I can find.
Thanks I want more X
Saturn at a photographable size would be nice

[PeterEde (Peter)]

I'm thinking a dual speed focuser will be my 1st upgrade
Looking at the GSO I would loose my finder scope?
No biggie that too is on the cards to replace with an autogider and suitable scope when I get my goto setup.
I think I need another income stream

[omegacrux (David)]

There's screw holes in the gso focuser and a base screws to it then finder slides in
I don't like that setup
So I got an 90' bracket bolted that to the vixen rail and mounted the finder there
You will like the 2speed they are much better

David

[omegacrux (David)]

Here's a pic

David

[PeterEde (Peter)]

Ah that'll work
What size GSO would I need. 86mm hmmm but the OTA is 80mm?

[PeterEde (Peter)]

Ok 96mm
Does anyone sell these in Aus. $200 delivered from US on Fleece bay

[astro744]

You can buy locally here http://www.bintel.com.au/Accessories...oductview.aspx

[PeterEde (Peter)]

Thanks

[raymo]

I have never found the slightest need for a dual speed focuser. My
electric focuser is capable of the tiniest adjustments; cost a fraction of the price, and I don't have to touch the O.T.A. at all, so no vibrations. I did
have to put an on/off switch into the circuit to stop battery drain. [$5.00].
It's one drawback is that you can override it when using a Crayford style
focuser by manually pushing or pulling the focuser, but you can't do it
with a rack and pinion one.
raymo

[PeterEde (Peter)]

Raymo I may just give that a go first

[raymo]

Bintel sell them for about $90. They come with mounting brackets
for both SW Newts and refractors. Some, including mine, drain their
batteries when not in use. I fixed that problem by putting a small
on/off switch into the circuit, and mounting it next to one of the focusing buttons.[ total $5.00]
raymo

[PeterEde (Peter)]

ok, 2nd upgrade. Just bought drive motors so I can at least start imaging more than the sun and moon