As you can tell I don't. I used to arrange them in a staight pattern and square them up as to get proper diffractions line but then figured out that if you curve them in the dewshield rather than running them straight they won't show up. So just make sure none of them runs in a straight line between the camera and the dewshield then run them straight out from there and you'll be good to go. Just make sure they're long enough and you have enough slack inside to curve them. Just push them in.
As you can tell I don't. I used to arrange them in a staight pattern and square them up as to get proper diffractions line but then figured out that if you curve them in the dewshield rather than running them straight they won't show up. So just make sure none of them runs in a straight line between the camera and the dewshield then run them straight out from there and you'll be good to go. Just make sure they're long enough and you have enough slack inside to curve them. Just push them in.
ok so I have the starzona hyperstar dew shield which means i can poke out the cords so internally if I make an oval shape and exit the cords out the gap I should be ok?
ok so I have the starzona hyperstar dew shield which means i can poke out the cords so internally if I make an oval shape and exit the cords out the gap I should be ok?
Yeah perfect. Just tape the cables outside the dewshield when done so they don't slide inside or pull on anything.
My very low tech solution has the cables in a gentle arc, and similarly means that there are no difraction spikes visible. One day I may even get around to painting the camera black, but for video use its not a big deal...
I may do the job a bit better with a piece of hanger wire in the middle of the cable run, but like the paint job, it hasn't got up there on my priority list yet.
My very low tech solution has the cables in a gentle arc, and similarly means that there are no difraction spikes visible. One day I may even get around to painting the camera black, but for video use its not a big deal...
I may do the job a bit better with a piece of hanger wire in the middle of the cable run, but like the paint job, it hasn't got up there on my priority list yet.
Looks like it would physically fit, but I'ts not figured for the ACF/R optics, so I wouldn't know what sort of aberations you might have to struggle with.
I've attached my only astrophoto with it - I think the max exposure was either 60 of 90 seconds using an DSLR with an APS-c chip. Moster fov!!! In the right hands, the hyperstar would be dangerous
Was doing some re-wiring whilst adding a Mount Hub Pro to the OTA and neatened up the hyperstar wiring with some fencing wire and a couple of strategic drill holes!
I'll give it a whirl later and see if I can see any spikes on a bright star.
And I'd just like to say thank you to the insect that has vomited all over my corrector plate One of the issues of operating a remote observatory is having to leave the optics uncovered...
Was doing some re-wiring whilst adding a Mount Hub Pro to the OTA and neatened up the hyperstar wiring with some fencing wire and a couple of strategic drill holes!
I'll give it a whirl later and see if I can see any spikes on a bright star.
And I'd just like to say thank you to the insect that has vomited all over my corrector plate One of the issues of operating a remote observatory is having to leave the optics uncovered...
i see the Velcro is essential - was it electrical tape binding the wires together?
I used to arrange them in a staight pattern and square them up as to get proper diffractions line but then figured out that if you curve them in the dewshield rather than running them straight they won't show up. So just make sure none of them runs in a straight line between the camera and the dewshield then run them straight out from there and you'll be good to go. Just make sure they're long enough and you have enough slack inside to curve them. Just push them in. 
One of the issues of operating a remote observatory is having to leave the optics uncovered...
