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Old 26-06-2013, 04:25 PM
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Spookyer (Brett)
Brett P

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Advice on equipment please

Hi all, I am a newbie.
I am interested in visual observing and learning a lot more about astronomy however because of my interest in photography I will probably focus more on astrophotography. I currently own some good general photography gear with lenses up to 600mm.

One option I therefore am considering is buying a decent EQ tracking mount and loading the mount with my DSLR/lens combinations to suit the target. I realise I am restricted with what I can image with focal lengths of up to 600mm but I understand there is still a good range of “large” targets up to this focal length. I believe a lot of folks use refractors for this sort of work anyway in similar sorts of focal lengths.

Looking more ahead I was thinking later if the objects I want to look at and image warrant it I could purchase a longer focal length scope like a Celestron edge HD or similar SC type scope and attack a different class of Deep sky objects or even planetary stuff. My idea would be to use the same mount and just put on either my Nikon lenses or the telescope depending on what I am imaging or observing.

My question is therefore am I on the right track here?
If so what are the list of things I need to purchase to make it happen?

thanks
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Old 26-06-2013, 05:21 PM
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alistairsam
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Hi Brett,

Welcome to IIS.
you'll get a number of various suggestions, but I'd suggest the following.

For widefields, look at the Vixen Polarie. Many use it here, I'm not sure till what focal length it can be used.
http://www.vixenoptics.com/mounts/polarie.html

I'd suggest against getting long focal length scopes for imaging when you're starting. guiding can be a big challenge and most long FL's use OAG's for guiding.
Look at semi APO's like the 80ED. They're excellent value for money and can be used with an OAG or a guidescope.
Else an 8inch F5 reflector is a good start although it'll need a robust mount to carry the weight. that's where the 80ED has its advantages as its small and light.
with reflectors, you'll also need your collimation to be close enough, a cheshire is great for this. don't depend on just the laser.
I'd advise against an F4 if you're starting as the tolerances are a lot narrower.
For mounts, depends on your budget and payload.
the HEQ5Pro is an excellent start especially for the 80ED or even an 8inch F5. But an 8inch would be on the edge of its capacity.
Next up with the NEQ6pro, reliable and affordable. but quite heavy.

keep the Focal ratio in mind. anything higher than an F5 or F6 will extend your integration time, especially RC's at F9. many use a reducer with it. but they're good for close up of galaxies.

for camera's, a dslr is a good start. doesn't need to be modded when you're starting. I'm referring to removal of the factory IR filter that blocks a significant part of the Ha and red.
you do have to be aware of noise though. anything over 7 minutes and 800 iso will tend to be noisy.

A cooled CCD is the way to go but can be expensive. but they give the best dynamic range with 16bit images and cooling.
There are the mono and OSC CCD's. OSC's are fine for most purposes, if you need fine detail, then mono is the way to go, but it can quickly add up with filters and filter wheel. you'll also have to have 4 sets of exposures for one image with L,R,G,B.

whatever scope you get, make sure the focuser is decent. makes a difference.

for guiding, I've now switched to an off axis guider from teleskop express and the guiding is amazing. but it can be a challenge to match the spacing and distance to ccd for both cameras.
many use the finder guider package, but it won't be that effective with long FL's. it needs to be atleast 1/3rd FL of your main scope and software will take care of the rest.
differential flexure is the biggest issue here, hence the OAG.

guide cameras, lodestar is by far the most popular and sensitive affordable option, but there are other alternatives like the qhy5 or orion ssag. but they're not usually suitable for OAG's.
I went with the QHY5L-2 which works well.

light pollution filters are a big plus. I use the Astronomik UHC-S and its brilliant. major difference.

will add more if i can think of anything else.

Cheers
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Old 28-06-2013, 05:43 PM
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Spookyer (Brett)
Brett P

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thanks for the input.

Does anyone have experience with using camera lenses for astrophotography on a mount.

thanks
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Old 29-06-2013, 02:49 PM
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rcheshire (Rowland)
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Lenses are perfectly OK for AP

Hi Brett. The gear you have is an ideal place to start. I use a Canon 200mm f/2.8L USM II (a prime lens, as you know) on a 1000D or 5D MKII for wide field - 600mm is plenty enough for close work, for the time being.

Your regular DSLR is not going to give you the deep reds that you see (Ha). If you can live with that for the time being until you have learned the craft, you can delve into modded DSLRs or dedicated CCDs at a later date.

A mount is not entirely necessary at shorter focal lengths. A visit to the night scapes image section should convince you of that. There is some outstanding work there. Otherwise a good solid equatorial mount is advisable and there are plenty to choose from. There are lots of astrophotographers using unguided and guided set ups on equatorial mounts.

The differences that you may encounter comparing lenses with refractors will be seen in image flatness and chromatic aberration, basically speaking. If you can live with the limitations of your lenses or learn how to work around them, all is well.

For example. The best theoretical stop for my 200mm is f5.7, but I notice eggy stars in the corners - f6.3 is much improved for full frame. If I wanted only the center section and using an APS-C, F4, f3.2 is probably OK and much faster. Experientially, I get satisfying results at f6.3 iso400 - 800 with 210 or 180 second exposures - exposure time also depends on the sky - light polluted or dark site.

I would also take time to read up on dithering. It will make a huge difference to your image quality from the outset. A good habit to adopt, particularly with DSLRs.

Hope that's along the lines you intend to pursue.

Last edited by rcheshire; 29-06-2013 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 29-06-2013, 08:09 PM
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Spookyer (Brett)
Brett P

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Thanks Rowland. Any ideas on the best method of mounting the lens, I currently have an arca swiss plate on the lens foot of my big lenses. I need to find a way to connect them in a stable but removable way to the mount I might purchase (an EQ6 for example) which would use say a losmandy style connection.
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Old 29-06-2013, 08:37 PM
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rcheshire (Rowland)
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Brett. I'm using a tripod mount ring attached to an aluminium bar/dovetail plate. A riser may be necessary to permit rotation of the camera for framing. Particularly, if the camera sits over the dovetail clamp, which is likely with camera/lens combination, to balance the DEC axis. This is OK with a small lens, but you may need to obtain a custom dovetail or drill and tap the holes yourself. Some dovetail bars come with numerous mounting options/attachment points/holes.

EDIT: OK. I don't know the ARCA, but I believe it's a dovetail. There are several dovetail clamps available. Just need to be sure it has the mounting holes for your EQ. Losmandy, Vixen, http://www.robincasady.com/Astro/ http://admaccessories.com/D_Series_Saddles.htm

Last edited by rcheshire; 29-06-2013 at 08:55 PM.
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