Hi I've been slowly getting bits and pieces together to mod my 600d, and one of the tutorials I've come across says I need to silicone the new filter in place after taking the old out. Haven't been able to find hobby silicone as yet, but I did find this at Jaycar http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NM2834
Would this "liquid tape" be fine to use? Or should I keep looking for silicone?
Thanks!
Chris
I have done a few Canon's and I got a tube of black silicone (small tube the size of a toothpaste tube). I either got it at Bunnings or a car parts place (it may have been suitable for touching up windscreen joints).
Of course you could simply use roof/gutter black silicone - its the same stuff. The problem is the nozzle would be too open. The small tube had a tiny nozzle.
Be careful with the silicone. I am in the roofing/cladding industry and I can tell you silicone has this amazing ability to get on everything. So be careful, be slow and very very clean.
The trouble can be little strings of silicone that pull off as you take the tube away. They then can fall onto the sensor glass. I had that happen once but I handled it quickly by using Bintel lens cleaning solution and q-tips. It wiped off whilst it was fresh.
Make sure the opening you cut in the tube is quite fine. Angle the tube away from the sensor when you are applying the silicone gasket. Pull away from the sensor onces done so any strings fall away from the sensor.
If you smooth the silicone with something, then make sure you throw it out into a bag or rubbish bin immmediately after using it. Water with a bit of detergent on silicone makes it a lot easier to smooth out. As I recall I didn't smooth mine, I simply squeezed a fine bead on the gap between the new Baader UV/IR filter and the frame. I may've smoothed it now, it was a while ago. Later models don't always have this silicone gasket.
Greg.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris85
Hi I've been slowly getting bits and pieces together to mod my 600d, and one of the tutorials I've come across says I need to silicone the new filter in place after taking the old out. Haven't been able to find hobby silicone as yet, but I did find this at Jaycar http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NM2834
Would this "liquid tape" be fine to use? Or should I keep looking for silicone?
Thanks!
Chris
Yes, some silicone sealants have acetic acid cure which can out-gass a little. However, this makes this type good for etching to the surfaces to adhere to.
But, in this application best to use non-acetic acid cure something like Loctite 5145 tempflex. This is natural cure and is pretty much the same as the RTV 3145 military grade silicon rubber non-acetic.
This can be found RS components, element 14 and fleabay price can vary by RS ~$27 fleabay I saw for $9 USD.
Ok it's a little more expensive but very similar to stuff we used on F111 recon cameras depot repair level.
Thanks Greg, I appreciate your long and detailed response. I myself fit kitchens for a living so I can relate to silicones ability to get EVERYWHERE. We have crates of the stuff at work, but as you said the nozzles are far to big so I steered clear. Will defiantly be taking your advice on how to apply.
And cheers bojan and Brendan, will try bunnings and see if they have any.
I just used some cheap translucent and a pin head to apply, then let it cure for 48hrs and there hasn't being an issue. You don't go nuts with it, you only want enough to fill the little wells a bit to secure the filter. The tube i got cost less then $10 and have never had an issue with off gassing, personally if it let cure fully and in such small amounts i don't see how it could effect such a large area unless heated above 60cel. I think most people tend to put it in write ups just to cover all bases, lol now if was something like super glue that would be a different story. If you arn't in a rush get the right stuff for the job though, the hardest part is dust between the sensor and filter on reassembly.
Better solution if you have it at your work and don't want to use a pin head then goto a chemist and ask for a syringe and or needle to go with it to suit your need. They have different sized needles so grab one which will suit your need and not be to hard to push out due to the viscosity of the silicon. Remove the plunger and load that way, its also what everyone does TIM and greases
Thanks Jay, I actually tried a similar idea as you suggested today when trying to do the mod. I just used a tooth pick instead of a pin.
Either way though, the ******* camera didn't turn back on.. Talk about bummed out
Try again next weekend I suppose or start looking at camera repairers..
Chris
Bunnings have a very pliable soft natural cure silicon that should work well with Jay's hypodermic - comes in a small white tube. Check the ribbon connectors again. Remove the battery and the small clock battery, if it is easily removed. Reinstall and try again. Alternatively, with the battery removed, switch the camera on and press the shutter - not sure of the technical reason, but it works, sometimes.
There's a bad ribbon cable with the 1100D consult my thread, lol its the hardest dam thing to get into place i've ever came across( 30mins and alot of words that start with f and c hahaha). +1 on the battery door switch hahaha also consult my thread. Please keep your thread full of progress and problems so it becomes a useful rescource as well.
Cheers for the encouragement lads, I'll have another tackle at it this weekend..
To be honest I was probably rushing it, with only one day off and having a crying 11 week old, I wasn't' as focused as I should've been!
Will defiantly take a closer look at your thread Jay, and see if I missed anything with along the way.
Cheers for the encouragement lads, I'll have another tackle at it this weekend..
To be honest I was probably rushing it, with only one day off and having a crying 11 week old, I wasn't' as focused as I should've been!
Will defiantly take a closer look at your thread Jay, and see if I missed anything with along the way.
Npz, for me it was cable H (1100D)but for you it will be cable K(600D). It kidia latches in, its best to get a magnifying glass to see. Ill draw a quick diagram and post back, though i'am only assuming its the same type as my cable H (1100D). The problem is you can push it up to the notches, but if its doesn't go over them and interlock , and when close the connector it will hold in place but electrically its not connected. So its looks fine and connected but its not fully inserted and making a connection with the contacts.
Cheers for that Jay. Yeah wow, cable K was mind numbingly difficult to get back in. Definitely got the heart racing and the temptation to smash it with a hammer. I'm going to try and pick up some finer tipped tweasers to make it easier - my fingers are just too fat!
Hmm tried again at getting the 600D to work, but still no-go. I didn't go and disassemble the camera all the way until taking the sensor out, I just removed all the ribbon cables and cleaned them with a isopropyl wipe and reinserted. Also had a look at the battery switch but I didn't see anything wrong with it.
One issue I might've caused was I stripped one of the grounding screws for the sensor the first time around, and I had to drill it out to remove it. I managed to save the thread and replaced the busted screw with a small one from the outside casing. I can't see it being to much of a problem as the strap is fully seated.
Not really sure what more I can do, any ideas??
Below is a pic taken from ghonis showing the screw I buggered.
Cheers
Hi Chris..ok I have to ask...you didn't drill too far thru the damaged screw and hit something? Is the replacement screw you used too long or too short...is it touching a ribbon cable? I have to ask.
Next thing is to inspect the ribbon cables for nicks. Very easy to nick one or put a small tear in one. If this happens the usual repair procedure is to jumper the damaged traces...but we'll get to that later if needed.
Inspect all connectors and ribbon cables (with some magnification glasses or eye magnifier loup), inspect that they are all seating maybe even try some pressure with your finger on the cables to see if this gives and extra re-seat push while powering it up.
Test the door switch ...manually operate it. Sometimes these ribbons look seated but they are not...this I have experienced more than once.
Chris. Check the battery door switch as well, if it has one. I blew the power supply board fuse on one camera, which is another avenue to consider, if things are not working out. This was the result of a third party battery that was faulty...
I dont mean to teach you to suck eggs, but some ribbon connectors clip in reverse - are they fully open and is the ribbon going all the way in.
I still think its a ribbon cable not being fully inserted, look at the pics on garry honis's site and make sure there all the way in. The grounding screw does nothing, lol iv'e torn out all mine for my mod. These ribbon cabels and latches are very deceitful, they often look fully inserted but are not. Give them a small jiggle with a tooth pick on insertion, i use the pointed head jewlers driver as i can get a fair bit of force to make certain, just don't go nuts though and end up damaging cables.
Thanks guys. I pulled it all apart again today, aaaaand still nothing..
Jay I payed special attention to making sure all the ribbons were seated properly, giving each one a jiggle to see if it was right. Double checked with ghonis as well.
Brandon the screw I replayed matched the length of the broken one, and when drilling it out I didn't have any follow through so I doubt I did any damage there. However I haven't pulled the camera fully apart to see what's on the other side of that screw, so I could be wrong.
I tried manually triggering the door switch Rowland, and I am using the factory battery so I'm sure it hasn't fried anything.
My only guess is that even after inspecting all the cables there must be a busted one somewhere, and I really don't think it's wise of me to keep pulling it apart and putting it back together.. Talk about over estimating my abilities!
I appreciate all your help, guys.
Cheers
Did you take any precautions to prevent damage by static discharge?
By this I mean conductive sheet on the working bench, wrist strap, avoiding wearing synthetic clothing during that work?
Chris. Inspect the ribbon ends with a jewellers glass or similar. If you have had trouble fitting the ribbon back in place or the end of the ribbon was bent , check for damage to the gold connectors. I replaced a ribbon that lost a contact - being careless.
There is probably a ribbon, very short that connects the power board to the main board, this is easily tucked away and may appear as though connected behind the board.
What else can I think of...?
Is one of the ribbon connector clips unseated. This can happen if you push the wrong way by mistake. The little pivot points are designed to slide out and may sit slightly off on one side. Gently push the connector pivot end back in place.
If you are still not getting any spark, check the battery for condition. I know that the answer is probably, its OK, but it's suprising the little things that get missed.
Bojan is right. At the very least, surgical type gloves.
