disassembly of a vintage binocular

[orlandog (Howard)]

A vintage binocular was disassembled and a pictorial record was made.
This record can be shared on:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/11912773/B...r-Disassembly1

[bojan]

Hi Howard,
Very good job on documenting and detailed description, thanks..
Now, a question: If you re-greased your binos, where did you find a suitable grease? I am in a search for adequate damping grease (as I need to re-grease one of my lenses) but I can not find anything that will work both on warm and low temperatures, at roughly the same viscosity..

[orlandog (Howard)]

Hello,
This tube of grease

http://picasaweb.google.com/hrrrose/Bojan#

- has been in use for the past 20 years. (I do not know if it is still available)

When used in conjunction with the originally applied stiff/tacky binocular grease it imparts a smooth feel and, depending on the proportions used, greatly extends the usable low temperature range. It seems that perhaps a trial and error mixture of compatible greases, each imparting their desirable characteristics, might prove to be the answer - more of an art than a science.

[Clarry (Clayton)]

Try here.
http://www.super-lube.com/

Aussie distributor here
http://www.mektronics.com.au/?pi=29&menid=5

[bojan]

Thank you both for this tip, I will talk certainly to Mektronics asap :-)

[mercedes_sl1970]

Hi there

Firstly, "orlandog", thanks for the excellent information on bino repair. Wished I'd had this a few years ago. Well done.

On the grease issue... Good to know about the Superlube. Another one I've very recently discovered is Lanotec Type A grease: http://www.lanotec.com.au/?link=3

I've just cleaned/repaired a WWII Bausch & Lomb 8x56 bino (fabulous bino by the way). Needed to repair a separated eyepiece lens and had to heat the housing to release the lens, hence no grease left. Anyway, I was unhappy with greases/lubes I've used on other binos so I spoke to several bearing and machinery firms who couldn't help me with damping grease but eventually pointed me to Lanotec.

The Lanotec grease has seemed to have done the trick - it's quite viscous, sticky and seems to hold its shape. It's not as viscous as the gunk I removed, but I'm pleased with the result so far and it's much better than other greases I've tried.

I must say that the Lanotec people were very helpful too. And, what's more, as the name suggests, it comes from Australian merinos!

Andrew

[bojan]

Andrew,
Any idea how stable it is over time?
Also, how it behaves on colder/warmer temperatures (say, 0° - 40°)?
Anyway, supplier is very close to my work so I will get some small quantity and try it. I am also looking into application for gears (for my EQ6).

OK, I've got it, $10 for ~200g.. greenish-brownish dense stuff, smells like sheep :-)

[mercedes_sl1970]

Sorry Bojan - have only had it for a week and a bit! The spec sheet doesn't give temperature range, only that it boils at 120-140 deg and the flashpoint is 158deg...

However, the binos sat outside on a supposed "41 deg" day last week (around 45 in the shade) for a couple of hours, were hot to touch but I did not detect any change in the grease - still maintained its shape, no running, etc. So, will persist for the time being.

Good luck

Andrew

[bojan]

I tried Lanotec A (on a bolt and screw) and mechanically, it seems it is the right stuff
Right viscosity, right stickiness, does not flow out, but it is not solid either.. all this on room temperature.
Now, it remains to be seen how it behaves in the fridge (Andrew already checked on warm temperatures, was OK right?)

And, if it is chemically stable (that means, if it won't oxidise), we have an ideal lubricant for lenses and slow moving gears and bearings, cheap, local product from Oz. The smell is not strong at all, it is even quite nice (to me that is... like new unwashed wool - not surprising, the stuff comes from wool. However I can imagine that some small number of people may find it un-acceptable).

[Roger Davis]

Try a Losoid grease. Three grades, heavy, medium and light. Not cheap though!
The collimation described is what is known as a CONDITIONAL Collimation. It is only for the eyes of the user.
The proper collimation technique is to ensure that one side of the binocular optics is parallel to the central hinge and then collimate the second barrel parallel to the first. You will need some form of collimating device.

[supernova1965 (Warren)]

Originally Posted by orlandog

A vintage binocular was disassembled and a pictorial record was made.
This record can be shared on:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/11912773/B...r-Disassembly1

Hi Orlandog

Could you please post this tutorial on IIS as an Article well done on the tutorial by the way.