Quote:
Originally Posted by multiweb
Here's a quick run down that works for me:
1_ get the scope out and decouple the motor (oldham coupling) so you can turn the worm by hand.
2_ Take the worm cover off and loosen the two hex screws holding the end blocks so they can move/rotate.
3_ Squeeze both end blocks together (against the worm ends) so there's no play, and use the worm cover as atraverse to make sure the blocks are square and in-line.
4_ Mesh the worm against the gear and tighten up the end block on the gear box side. Then tighten the other one.
5_ Turn the wom by end feeling any hard spots across the whole circumference of the gear and note for tight spots. Release the meshing by moving the end block so it runs smoothly. Whenever you do that use the worm cover to square the end block before tightening it and make sure you also squeeze it against the worm.
That should get you in the ball park.
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Marc has described pretty well what i do as well. The only other thing you need apart from feeler gauges, worm cover, and allen key is about 2 other pairs of hands. You can do it on your own but a couple of extra hands to hold feeler gauge and worm cover goes a long way to making the adjustments less....... challenging
The only thing I do a bit different is I use a battery drill set to the lowest torque setting (or close to it). You need to be able to stop the chuck turning with a couple of fingers. I then put the coupler from the motor on the end of a reversed bit (or piece of rod if you have one the correct size) and use the drill to drive the worm. Works a treat and saves on the finger tips. You could do a way with the drill and turn it by hand but i prefer the precision of the torque setting on the drill. If you are going to try it by hand only use thumb and forefinger to turn the bit shaft.