Hi, I was wondering if there is any trick on how to stop screw on adapters getting too tight over time!
Some of the adapters are often too big in diameter or too small to have a good grip on and is a constant problem for me when ever I need to take down my assembly for maintenance.
I can relate to this Raki. When I'm getting my position angle correct for astrophotography I tend to always gently rotate the whole lightpath clockwise to avoid any one adapter unscrewing. Eventually I always end up with one that binds quite tightly over time.
In the past I've resorted to a monkey wrench on soft cloth sometimes to get things apart again
keeping threads clean is the best way, but even then, aluminium will sometimes bind. Then use a jar top remover (Google it). there are many inventive devices available, but I use a two jaw device with a ratchet clamp that my wife got at BigW. This couples the rotation and clamping actions and exerts the minimum possible clamping force needed to unscrew. Will auto adjust to any astro adapter.
A tiny bit of 'Chap Stick ' lip balm on the threads will stop them sticking ,its natural bees wax and wont hurt and optics or electronics if you do get a bit on them .
Just a tiny amount tho , and I have also heard here in IIS that shoe polish works as well .
Brian.
I have several thin rings that love to jam tight , I have to prevent the whole mess from rotating at the worst moment by making sure everything is firm. I found by drilling two small holes opposite each other the ring can be easily removed by using the pointy ends on a set of calipers.
Clear skies Ken.
Yes it is a common problem and Takahashi gear in particular seems prone to it.
I got a tube of teflon grease from Auper Cheap Auto. I put a small amount on a tissue and wipe the threads with it, not too much but it stops that dry black coating Tak uses from binding.
I also got a handy tool from Bunnings. Its a rubber strap with a plastic handle. You thread the rubber strap around the object that is stuck and through the handle of the tool. As you lever it tightens itself around the object and is non marring.
It cost about $15 and was in the tool section. Very handy and it has gotten me out of trouble a few times.
Yes it is a common problem and Takahashi gear in particular seems prone to it.
I got a tube of teflon grease from Auper Cheap Auto. I put a small amount on a tissue and wipe the threads with it, not too much but it stops that dry black coating Tak uses from binding.
Hi Greg, do you have a link for that teflon grease. Is it a spray or just a tube? Years ago I read about a marine grade spray that supposedly applied once would resist wear and tear and stop binding in very corrosive environment. I think it was advertised for the winches they use on sail boats. Was out of the US. Shipping was a killer and the product was very expensive too. Will have to dig out what it was called.
Bought 2 of those Bunnings strap tools last Sunday Greg, after this thread got me thinking. I like the fact it will be a rubber strap doing the gripping on my adapters.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley
Yes it is a common problem and Takahashi gear in particular seems prone to it.
I got a tube of teflon grease from Auper Cheap Auto. I put a small amount on a tissue and wipe the threads with it, not too much but it stops that dry black coating Tak uses from binding.
I also got a handy tool from Bunnings. Its a rubber strap with a plastic handle. You thread the rubber strap around the object that is stuck and through the handle of the tool. As you lever it tightens itself around the object and is non marring.
It cost about $15 and was in the tool section. Very handy and it has gotten me out of trouble a few times.
A wide rubber band around the outside can help you get a grip. Also a thin rubber band on the threaded portion lets you screw it in place without it going in fully and sticking but also helps stop it from unwinding too (like would occur if you normally just don't screw it in fully).
Also I've found a tip for people using a SA100 or similar spectrum filter for imaging where its important but often difficult to get the spectrum horizontal on an imaging sensor. Using a small rubber band or O ring on the thread lets you screw it onto the imager and line up its reflections horizontally and the give in the rubber means it will compress enough for you to get the alignment and it will then hold its position when you slot it back into your focuser.
Hi Greg, do you have a link for that teflon grease. Is it a spray or just a tube? Years ago I read about a marine grade spray that supposedly applied once would resist wear and tear and stop binding in very corrosive environment. I think it was advertised for the winches they use on sail boats. Was out of the US. Shipping was a killer and the product was very expensive too. Will have to dig out what it was called.
Its a white tube like the size of a large toothpaste tube and its made by Nulon. Teflon grease additive for gearboxes. Its at my dark site so next time I am there I will take a photo of it and post it back here. Its a white paste. I would limit the amount I put on threads because it does have a slight smell so I didn't want any outgasing. It works well and has saved me from some stuck adapters. At one point I thought I had written off a Tak reducer because it was so jammed on. WD40 didn't seem to work well either but it probably helped a bit.
A tiny bit of 'Chap Stick ' lip balm on the threads will stop them sticking ,its natural bees wax and wont hurt and optics or electronics if you do get a bit on them .
