Even though the world ends today, I'm still going to make sure I get a few jobs done for a clear conscience.
I'm making a timber chopping block out of an Aussie hardwood. What would be a good oil to dress it. I've heard of grape seed oil being used, but what might be some other options? Rice bran oil any good?
I used extra virgin olive oil on mine. I coated it quite thickly and let it soak for some time then buffed it with nylon cloth.
These days after washing it I spray a bit of canola or olive oil spray to keep it looking nice.
Woodworker here.. buy some Liquid Parrafin Oil from any chemist. It's 100% safe for human consumption and won't go rancid like olive/grapseed oils etc.
This isn't to be confused with the parrafin oil that can be bought from hardware stores that isn't medicinal grade quality.
The board I'm making will be a gift, so I can't be sure that it will be used nothing more than as a serving platter, being stored for most of the time. Olive oil here isn't a good option as it does go rancid too soon if the board isn't used and washed regularly. It's terrible stuff once rancid.
Shane, thanks for your suggestion. I did happen to see liquid liquid parafin, but at the hardware store, and I thought was "I wonder...". I rembered that liquid parafin is used as a laxative (from personal experience too!), but I'm glad you mentioned the stuff from the chemist, not the hardware store.
Tung Oil is poisonous. I wouldn't. I have used Tung Oil for years on some rifle stocks, but I don't think I'd eat off it.
How about medicinal raw linseed oil (or flax seed oil as it is called for human use usually). You can buy cold pressed linseed at natural food stores. I'd rub it in well and try.
I have also stopped rancification of walnut oil using natural gum turpentine - but that's got to dry a pretty long time!
As Shane suggested medicinal grade parafin is a good choice. As Greg suggested it's best to oil the board when it is "warm", as this opens the grain of the timber and allows the oil to penetrate better. Put it in the sun for a couple of hours before oiling or warm it in the oven on about 50 degrees for 30 minutes.
What timber species are you planning to use? This is fairly important as some Australian hardwoods are not suitable to use for cutting boards as they will leach tanins and resins that will contaminate the food.
I use Tung Oil on wooden trays that I export to China. But those trays are not used for food. (if you do use Tung oil for other non food contact woodwork, dilute it with Citrus Terpene which is made from citrus peel. Allows better penetration of the oil into the timber.)
I would avoid the Tung Oil due to it being pressed from the nut of the Tung tree. Hence the chance of the Tung Oil transferring to the food that is prepared onto the board and an allergic reaction happening. It's only a very slight chance, but better safe than sorry when it comes to nut allergies.
Tung Oil is poisonous. I wouldn't. I have used Tung Oil for years on some rifle stocks, but I don't think I'd eat off it.
How about medicinal raw linseed oil (or flax seed oil as it is called for human use usually). You can buy cold pressed linseed at natural food stores. I'd rub it in well and try.
I have also stopped rancification of walnut oil using natural gum turpentine - but that's got to dry a pretty long time!
Natural gum turpentine is a good way to kill brain cells.... Quote from a woodwork forum owner..
Quote:
Pure (gum, wood) Turpentine is derived by destructive distillation of wood and contains mainly pinene and dipentene. It is a known sensitiser (not a good thing) and may manifest itself as a skin rash or inflammation or as an asthmatic condition, and in some individuals this reaction can be extremely severe. It is also thought to be a cause kidney failure if abrorbed through the pores of the skin. It can cause many mental problems and is one of the reasons why so many of the great artists were certifiable nut cases. Don't be fooled into thinking that natural is always better. Often times is definitely is not.
The timber is Red Mahogany, also called Red Stringybark. So bloody hard! My belt sander is getting one hell of a work out to cut back the mill's saw marks. It was also the thinnest slab that the timber yard had at 30mm. All the others were 50mm or thicker.
Linseed oil has a strong smell, though I don't know about the medical grade stuff. As it's a gift I want to control strong oders.
Well you can use that but it wouldn't have been close to my first choice.
It has a couple of disadvantages particularly if it is going to be used as a cuttting board as opposed to a serving board. The main one being it's reasonably hard and will blunt even the highest quality knives in a matter of minutes. It isn't anywhere near as hard or heavy as something like Ironbark but it will dull the knives fairly fast. It's also reasonably heavy which if it is a large board makes it difficult for women to handle in the kitchen.
Australian Camphor Laurel is unquestionably one of the best timbers available anywhere in the world for making cutting boards, for the following reasons.
1) It usually has a really decorative dark grain through lighter timber which makes it very attractive.
2) It isn't all that hard and will not blunt the knives anywhere near as fast as harder timbers.
3) It has a really nice refreshing camphor smell which serves two purposes. Insects like cockroaches and silverfish etc hate it so it is a natural pest control system in the kitchen and most importantly the camphor is a natural anti bacterial agent which will minimise the risk of cross contamination of the food chopped on the cutting board.
The board I'm making will be a gift, so I can't be sure that it will be used nothing more than as a serving platter, being stored for most of the time. Olive oil here isn't a good option as it does go rancid too soon if the board isn't used and washed regularly. It's terrible stuff once rancid.
Shane, thanks for your suggestion. I did happen to see liquid liquid parafin, but at the hardware store, and I thought was "I wonder...". I rembered that liquid parafin is used as a laxative (from personal experience too!), but I'm glad you mentioned the stuff from the chemist, not the hardware store.
Have you any idea on Tung oil?
Way back in the dim distant days of youre when I did a bit of wood turning, I found that beeswax melted and mixed in with some citus oil - lemon is fine - makes a great finisher for a long-lasting surface. Warm the wood and beeswax in the sun and lay it on thick and buff with cloth them a buffing pad on your drill.
Peter
As John mentioned that Camphor L' has a natural pesticide, but so have many other timbers.
Regarding the heating the timber in the sun or oven, use care as it can split or crack.
I don't know what facet will be presented to be cut on. However the end grain face is best. the knife will cut in between the grain. Its age old technique, preserves the fine cutting edge of the knife longer.
Natural gum turpentine is a good way to kill brain cells.... Quote from a woodwork forum owner..
Regards,
Shane.
That explains a few things about me
I thought most of the issues with the artists was lead poisoning from licking their brushes etc with oil paint lead residue etc especially the white paint (titanium plus lead).
Been hand rubbing with linseed and turps for nigh on 20 years now... no known medical issues YET. They also claim linseed is carcinogenic, yet sprout off about how good flaxseed and LSA etc is for you in your diet - they never seem to be able to make up their minds and keep constant!
Then again, soy has been proven to cause emasculation of men, yet they keep telling us to eat and drink soy product...
Linseed oil has a strong smell, though I don't know about the medical grade stuff. As it's a gift I want to control strong oders.
I love the smell of linseed oil, reminds me of new cricket bats, when I was much younger, particularly at this time of year. Anyone who can wrap a cricket bat so it doesn't look like a wrapped up cricket bat is a magician.
I have nothing serious to add to the conversation as I know SFA about wood, woodworking etc. I've tried all sorts of building with wood and I suck at it.
I love the smell of linseed oil, reminds me of new cricket bats, when I was much younger, particularly at this time of year. Anyone who can wrap a cricket bat so it doesn't look like a wrapped up cricket bat is a magician.
I have nothing serious to add to the conversation as I know SFA about wood, woodworking etc. I've tried all sorts of building with wood and I suck at it.
Cheers
Stuart
Linseed reminds me always of the beautiful aroma of the old wood putties, that were predominately linseed! YUM! I find raw linseed a lovely smell, but boiled linseed (commercial stuff) is objectionable.
I make my own boiled linseed, and it does not have near the same odour (and dries better than the commercial crap!)
If I were making a food service bowl, I would look in Organoil's line of products (their Scandinavian Oil in superb!). They do do a fine food grade rubbing oil.
I picked up some ecowoodoil at the wood show in Sydney (Trend Timbers stand) and it seems to work well. I mainly use it on our wooden food platters and chopping boards.
