Camera Advice for 8inch LX200R OTA

Adrian-H · #1 14-05-2006, 12:43 AM

Hello Readers!

I would love some advice on a great camera for deep space exposure astrophotography For a 8inch LX200R OTA i have not bought yet, as i would like a camera first, i am willing to spend up to 2.5k,

i dont know much about Camera's for Astrophotography But i have some Amateur Photography Knowledge, and Knowledge With Photo Editing, Photoshop etc, i Have Seen alot of great astrophotography, and from what i have seen i am fond of the people that do astrophotography with HA RGB color Filter Exposure and stack, it would be great if i could use this camera for regular photography too but the main use of the camera will be for astrophotography, it would be allso great if i could use this camera for future photography in different scopes.

Gama · #2 14-05-2006, 01:17 AM

Well, after ringing the bells for Nikon recently, i have to say get a Canon 300 or 350. The reason i say this is that the Canon has a better (Wider) CCD filter bandwidth than the Nikon series. So your images will show reds much better than most DSLR's. Plus they are cheap, and so easily available.
As the LX200R has similar optics to the RCX (I have the 14" RCX), you will be getting some huge FOV's and stars will be pinpoints from edge to edge of the image. You can use a f6.3 reducer, but it will induce some distortion at the edge of view. Once your familiar with the camera and used to handling it, and taking pretty decent shots, the next step is to get it modified, or get a modified DSLR from the start if you could afford it.
Here is where i will blow the Nikon Horn, as once the filter is removed, it really shines, as do the Canons as well. But with the Nikon's you may need to fiddle with the older models (D100, D70, D50 etc) to bypass a sometimes annoying Dark subtraction filtering issue, for some users it donst bother them. The Modified Nikons produce stunning images, look around for some of these. OK, before someone gripes, the Canons also produce stunning images too.
Nikons D200 model does have control on Dark Sub issue, and has 10.2 Mpixels and also produces better images than the Canons up to the 5D, but the D200 costs around $2800 currently, so id leave this one alone for now.
Buy a swag of spare batteries (About 8 bucks each on ebay), a modifed shutter realease cable so your computer can control the shutter release and some software, like Maxim DSLR, or others.
Oh yeah, and get a $200 or $300 100-300mm zoom lens for it for wide field piggyback photos.

Adrian-H · #3 14-05-2006, 02:08 AM

how do i go about mods? i have had my eye on the Canon 30D but i have never went about buying because i want to be sure of what i am doing first and be rock soild that it is what i want, i am not totaly certain of what i want, i have allso thought that maybe the 20Da however i have not seen one around anywhere that has the mods allready? from what i have read it has some mod to the filter and it processes red's and the pinks better then an unmoded?

Gama · #4 14-05-2006, 02:49 AM

Dont bother with the 30D, its a touched up 20D. The same sensor and imaging circuitry (Digic II) is in the 30D as the 20D. Its not worth the extra money.Either is the 20Da if your going to modify the 20D.
My recommendation is a 20D or the 350, buy it modified already or get it modified (Check the internet for shops that do it) but after you get used to playing with it first.
Buy an Eye opener and the 2" adapter for the telescope, as this will help reduce Vignetting.
Buy a T mount for the camera.
Buy either some spare (Cheap) batteries or an AC plugin Battery eliminator.
Buy a 2" nose piece to fit your T mount, make sure its threaded for filters.
Buy a 2" H.a filter, plus a 2" pollution filter if your in suburban areas.
Buy a ready made cable for the Canon for the modified shutter release cable.
Buy or find some software like Maxim DSLR or similar camera control software.
Buy or make a Hartmann mask so you can focus properly.

I think ive just blown all your money.....
You should be ready to start doing some work after all this.

Striker (Tony) · #5 14-05-2006, 08:04 AM

Adrian.

I too have ordered a 10" LX200R OTA and have gone for the Modified Hutech Canon 350D....they shoould be a good match.

The Moded 350D will need an external filter to use for day shots but when I looked at the cost of getting lenses and more filters I decided to get a nice compact canon for family shots and leave the moded camera for astro work only.

This is the camera I just purchased http://www.optcorp.com/product.aspx?pid=4-7-6892 and you can get them direct from Hutech.
http://sciencecenter.net/hutech/canon/index.htm

h0ughy (David) · #6 14-05-2006, 08:51 AM

get what striker said! I will be later.(maybe his LOL)

[1ponders] (Paul) · #7 14-05-2006, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gama

Buy an Eye opener and the 2" adapter for the telescope, as this will help reduce Vignetting

Unless meade have changed the visual backs of the 8" Rs from the standard LX200 these can't be used. I know as I wanted to get one

The smallest scope the Peterson Eyeopener will work on is the 10" as the 8" doesn't have a removable visual back.

Also if you want to do separate "HA RGB color Filter Exposure" (I am reading this as individual red exposures, green exposures and blue exposures) you won't be able to do it with a DSLR unless you get one with a monocrhrome chip in it. I don't think they are available unfortunately. In this case you will be restricted to dedicated astronomical CCD cameras with filters. Still there are some very good ones available in your price range. You just won't be able to use it for "normal" photography"

Can you clarify if by "HA RGB color Filter Exposure" you meant the separate exposures I mentioned above?

Adrian-H · #8 14-05-2006, 10:13 PM

yeah thats what i meant 1ponders, Monochrome, now i know what they call it!, whats this about the 8 and the 10? i dont understand it at all to be honest, heh, do you mean that you cannot fix the vignetting in a 8 with a eye opener?

Will ccd's produce much more outstanding photos then a EoS at my price range? should i go there? cause it is not necessary for me to use it for non-astrophotography, personally, id rather spend it all astro-photography wise, because this step im taking i want it to be my starting point where i really start my legacies! for my passion of astronomy!, know of any good options?

Regards
Adrian.

[1ponders] (Paul) · #9 14-05-2006, 10:32 PM

Ok Adrian, when you look at the back end of a Meade SCT you will see where the different accessories screw onto the telescope. On 10" and bigger scope that screw bit or visual back can be screwed off to leave a larger "hole" in the back, where you can attach a Peterson Eyeopener (do a google search). The 8" visual back can't be removed.

You can certainly get fantastic images with DSLRs and they are great to learn on, but high end CCD cameras will produce the better image in the long run in accomplished hands. However there is a considerable cost involved in high end CCDs as well as a much steeper learning curve. You may be better off initially looking at a Hutech modified 350D and then move up at a later date.

There is a lot to consider, that is for sure. Check around and see what sort of dedicated CCD cameras are available in your price range. Also remember if you are going to image through an 8" even with a focal reducer you will need someway to guide and if you are looking at a small sized ccd then you will almost be required to autoguide. So a dual chip self guiding ccd may be the go. Have a look around and see what is available.

Adrian-H · #10 15-05-2006, 05:04 AM

i think im gonna go for the 350D or 20D hutech, ive been reading up alot of stuff, and looking at alot of astrophotography, seems the price for the imaging quality is great compared to of other imaging devices up to the same standard, this will allso leave me with some left over money. then i could probly afford a Lx200R 10" OTA, think its worth going up a level?

where do i find the man that sells me a hutech?

[1ponders] (Paul) · #11 15-05-2006, 08:14 AM

Stiker is the one to ask about that as he seems to be the one buying all the different sorts of cameras

Striker (Tony) · #12 15-05-2006, 03:35 PM

Adrian....my above links have the sites to purchase the camera's from including the hutech site which you can order directly if you choose.

I purchased mine from the OPT site because of 2 reasons...they had 1 in stock and could send immediately and secondly I have dealt with OPT on tens of occassions.

I have a question...would the peterson be of any benifit for astrophotography as you dont use the whole field of view anyway...please correct me someone.

Gama · #13 16-05-2006, 02:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [1ponders]

Unless meade have changed the visual backs of the 8" Rs from the standard LX200 these can't be used. I know as I wanted to get one

The smallest scope the Peterson Eyeopener will work on is the 10" as the 8" doesn't have a removable visual back.

Also if you want to do separate "HA RGB color Filter Exposure" (I am reading this as individual red exposures, green exposures and blue exposures) you won't be able to do it with a DSLR unless you get one with a monocrhrome chip in it.

Can you clarify if by "HA RGB color Filter Exposure" you meant the separate exposures I mentioned above?

You would think Meade would have changed the Rear cell design for the 8" LX200R, so i hope they did.

For H.a, what you can do here is to just place the filter in front of a modified camera. It will produce an image that will emphasise the H.a lines and shapes much better while darkening the other colors. You will loose signal, but you can combine it after with a full color one shot to get some details to stand out.
It should be possible to do LRGB if you download the images as Monochrome thru filters, then combine them later. MaximDL 4.5 allows to download Monochrome RAW files with NO color encoding.
If the weather ever shapes up here in Melbourne i'll do it and post the results. Ever since i returned that D200, the weathers been crapola city!.