Trench Art Restoration

[Shark Bait (Stu)]

Recently I received some items from my Grandparent's estate. I am grateful to have some of my Grandfather's WWII items left in my care. Among the items was some of his trench art. He was a Gunner during WWII.

One of the cigarette holders is lost and needs to be replaced. I have some old .303 brass and will cut it down to suit. I don't know what he used to join the .303 cases to the cut down 25pr base. For those in the know, can I get away with using solder to make the joint or should I use something else to make it authentic?


Polishing the smooth surfaces will be easy but it is going to be difficult to polish in and around the symbols and badges on the outside of the case. Are there any products that the base could soak in that will not eat away the brass or the material used to join the badges to the case?


Thanks for reading.

[LewisM]

Mate, being a military collector for most of my life, my advice is DO NOT POLISH IT! Leave it be - patina is value, and every micron you rub off polishing devalues and destroys it.

As to the holder, yes, I imagine regular solder would suffice. Probably lead solder of course for period correct.

If you don't have any 303 brass, give me a holler - I have a couple kg's of it - most WW2 Aussie manufacture (yes, I shoot it to be even more historically correct)

[mithrandir (Andrew)]

Stu, the first rule of restoration is don't.
What are you trying to achieve? A like new appearance or one appropriate for its provenance?
Assuming you don't want it to be in "barn find" condition giving it a wash with a mild detergent and non-scratch cloth is OK.
Polishing removes the history. If you want to maximise the authenticity, a replacement cigarette rest should be distinguishable from the original and not be permanently attached. He probably used soft solder.

[Shark Bait (Stu)]

Originally Posted by LewisM

Mate, being a military collector for most of my life, my advice is DO NOT POLISH IT! Leave it be - patina is value, and every micron you rub off polishing devalues and destroys it.

As to the holder, yes, I imagine regular solder would suffice. Probably lead solder of course for period correct.

If you don't have any 303 brass, give me a holler - I have a couple kg's of it - most WW2 Aussie manufacture (yes, I shoot it to be even more historically correct)

Thanks for the advice and the offer Lewis. I have sourced a few old WWII .303 brass cases. I should be right but I will let you know if I riun them and need some more.

Originally Posted by mithrandir

Stu, the first rule of restoration is don't.
What are you trying to achieve? A like new appearance or one appropriate for its provenance?
Assuming you don't want it to be in "barn find" condition giving it a wash with a mild detergent and non-scratch cloth is OK.
Polishing removes the history. If you want to maximise the authenticity, a replacement cigarette rest should be distinguishable from the original and not be permanently attached. He probably used soft solder.

My leaning towards brass polishing probably comes from my time with the Reserves. If it was made of brass it was meant to shine and Artillery like their brass. I take your point though. I will just remove the built up dust from it years in storage and give it a gentle bath.

The old .303 WWII brass cases that I have are just as tarnished as the rest of the piece. It should end up being a close match. I will take your advice and leave it loose.

My Grandfather was like many of the Soldiers from his generation. He would not talk about the War unless he was with his neighbour who was a POW of the Japanese. When they did talk about the War, it was always stories of the funny times, not the bad. If only these items could speak....