Hi Veejo,
before you go for the eyepiece adaptor consider a barlow lens. The thing with this adaptor is that you need a lot of back focus and also the image quality getīs down, depending on the eyepiece of course, but in general the standard eypieces arenīt free of field curvature and all other sorts of distortions.
What sort of scope are you actaully using? If it is a newton with a standard rack and pinion focuser 1/4" be carefull, the eyepiece projection adaptor+T ring+SLR puts a heavy weight on the side of the tube - balancing the tube can be hard.
A barlow doesnīt make it much better but the imagequality improves as the minus element in the barlow corrects some field curvature of the prime mirror and does not introduce chromatic abberation (purple fringes around contrast rich edges). A good choice would be the televue powermate series as they allow to unscrew the eyepiece holder and attach an adaptor that connetcs straight to the t-ring. Imagewise they are pretty much top of the class.
If you are just after some decent crater images on the moon - donīt use the slr. go for a modded webcam instead. the atmosphere is always turbulent and blurs yours images but the webcam takes around 30 images per second and a few of a 100 shots are always crystal clear. stack them afterwards and make a mosaic out of a few different locations on the moon. The last issue of Australian Sky and Telescope presented a new freeware tool to do that and the results look pretty much like taken from orbit. The tool is here available:
http://www.avistack.de/
The other advantages of the webcam are: bigger craters in the first place due to a smaller sensor (acts a little like zoom but is a total different concept); weight is usually not an issue; and you see what you do as the movie you take shows on your notebook screen. Downside is: you need a notebook at the scope. You can modify a webcam of your choice (there are few articles in this forum on how to) but I wouldnīt do it again. The reason is I did it with a Microsoft VX3000 that I had 2 of anyways by removing the optics painting over anoying ledīs and making an eyepiece like adaptor to fit in the focuser from a black film container (where photo film is packed in). Later I asked a colleague to make me a proper adaptor with a thread to use filters from scap aluminium. it works but these days you can pick up a ready made device with a better sensor and variable exposure time (like Celestron NexImgage - which is a Phillips ToUcam modded) for under 200AUD. This can later be used for guiding if you want to go for deepspace photography - where the slr excells.
Let me know how you go.
Clear skies!