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Old 28-12-2009, 10:40 AM
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supernova1965 (Warren)
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Clayton's Macro

All your macro's have got me interested which is a problem as I don't have decent camera gear let alone a macro lens so I thought I would try the macro you have when you don't have a macro so here it is taken with a Fuji Film FinePiz A500 5.1MP 1/25 s F5.5 ISO: 100 f=19.20mm Flash: No

Comments gratefully accepted
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Old 28-12-2009, 02:20 PM
dpastern (Dave Pastern)
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Good attempt, flash would have probably helped. 1/25s is a bit slow when trying to avoid camera shake. If you can bump the ISO up to say, ISO 400, you'd get 2 stops there, so the shutter speed would have been 1/100 in that instance. Flash would also have been a good idea. Most macro imagers use flash, at least, most of the time. The reason for this is that natural light simply forces you to use a shallow depth of field (DOF) and a high ISO (usually noisy). The result is an image that's not really too desirable. The latest DSLRs are far better noise performance wise and you can shoot at high ISOs like 3200 or even 6400 with good performance, something that would have only been dreamed about a few years back!

Dave
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Old 28-12-2009, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpastern View Post
The reason for this is that natural light simply forces you to use a shallow depth of field (DOF)

Dave
Thanks David for your input could you explain this part for a Newbie I am not sure what you mean by shallow depth of field

Thanks
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Old 29-12-2009, 03:06 AM
dpastern (Dave Pastern)
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OK - I'll try and explain DOF by 2 images. Note that these are just quick 'n' dirty images - a bit of camera shake, dust spots, White Balance (WB) not done, etc. I just grabbed the camera and set it to ISO 3200, natural light. The first shot was at f1.4 (I was using Canon's 50mm f1.4 lens for this test). Note the blurred background. The 2nd shot was taken at f11 and you can see details in the background now (i.e. it's not as blurred anymore). By using f11, rather than f1.4, I was able to gain more DOF. Think of depth of field as the zone of acceptable sharpness both in front, and behind, the subject that you have focused on. Does that make sense?

In my examples, the object of focus was the plastic container. Even though you can't notice it, since nothing was in front of the container, there was a certain amount of space in front of the container that would have been sharp, both at f1.4 and f11. For 1.4, that zone of acceptable sharpness is far less, perhaps a few cm in front and behind the container. At f11, that distance grows to probably around 10cm off the top of my head. If I'd shot at f22, the writing on the Blue boxes in the background would have been readable due to the greater zone of acceptable sharpness that f22 delivers.

Using the zone of sharpness, aka hyperfocal distance, is quite a common tactic when doing landscapes. There is a mathemtical formula for calcualating the correct f stop and focus distance to use etc for maximum sharpness. A few pages of interest:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...l-distance.htm

http://www.dofmaster.com/

Hope this helps.

Dave
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  #5  
Old 29-12-2009, 03:10 AM
dpastern (Dave Pastern)
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As a side note, when using a true macro lens (one capable of doing 1:1, or life size), the DOF is probably around 5mm at most. Anything not within the 5mm zone of acceptable sharpness is out of focus (OOF).

Dave

PS life size means that the subject being imaged will appear the same size as in real life on the image frame. So, if the object was 5mm long in real life, it'll appear 5mm on the image frame (roughly 1/7 of the width of the typical 35mm frame).
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Old 29-12-2009, 06:47 AM
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Thanks for that I will go through the links provided but I think I am getting what you are getting at

Happy NYE
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Old 29-12-2009, 02:15 PM
dpastern (Dave Pastern)
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Happy NY!

Dave
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