Last night was amazingly clear and dew free here in brisbane. I took advantage of this situation and invited Robin (Tandum) over for a night of imaging...
I managed to get these four images which are a damn sight better than last weeks efforts with this scope.. Collimation looks a lot better, as does the focus.. I definitely think there is more in it however!
M8 - 60x1min @ 13nm Ha
M16 - 80x1min @ 13nm Ha
M20 - 40x1min
M83 - 33x1min
The M83 image looks a little strange, It was the first image for the night and it was after this image that I pulled my desicant cap out and stuck it in the oven, and replaced it with my refillable unit from PWT. After this the resulting images were a lot sharper...
One thing is for sure, I need a bahtinov mask for my RC.. After using Robin's one I realised that my initial focus was always out by a whisker or two.. So I think fixing that is the way to go!!
Thanks for looking... Oh, the other pics are shots of our setups all ready for the night...
With regards to focusing if you are using a ST-9, I assume you have CCDops software. Try using planet mode on a roughly focused star between 200-250 counts.
I find this far more accurate than any form of diffraction focusing.
Looking good Alex - agree about the focus, but still, very nice. I'd love to see what this setup can do under dark skies and with perfect focus and really long exposures and lots of subs.
Where abouts in Brissie are you? Wouldn't mind catching up one day.
Last night was amazingly clear and dew free here in brisbane. I took advantage of this situation and invited Robin (Tandum) over for a night of imaging...
I managed to get these four images which are a damn sight better than last weeks efforts with this scope.. Collimation looks a lot better, as does the focus.. I definitely think there is more in it however!
M8 - 60x1min @ 13nm Ha
M16 - 80x1min @ 13nm Ha
M20 - 40x1min
M83 - 33x1min
The M83 image looks a little strange, It was the first image for the night and it was after this image that I pulled my desicant cap out and stuck it in the oven, and replaced it with my refillable unit from PWT. After this the resulting images were a lot sharper...
One thing is for sure, I need a bahtinov mask for my RC.. After using Robin's one I realised that my initial focus was always out by a whisker or two.. So I think fixing that is the way to go!!
Thanks for looking... Oh, the other pics are shots of our setups all ready for the night...
Great shots Alex, I am with you on the bahtinov mask, mine is in the post from England. With it and more care on setting up my mount I hope to improve my images.
Great start with the new gear Alex - its been a long time coming but I agree the conditions last night were the best for a while. The setup looks nice and neat - what's in the box below the mount?
Peter - the box below the mount houses 240v AC to 13.8v DC transformer for powering the mount, dew control gear etc. sitting atop the box is the power box for the SBIG and the SBIG guiding relay..
David - Yeah, Laziness is the reason for buying one when you can make them yourself
Good shots Alex. The stars could use slight tightening I think. It looks just oof to me..
The use of such numerous short exposures has delivered very smooth graduations though, excellent work.
I noticed your power cable is running parallel to your signal cable on your CCD camera. Has this ever posed a problem for you and created artifacts in your subs? I found that sometimes mine came out with diagonal banding and all-sorts until I separated the two and put an end to that problem.
Thanks Baz, I've never had a problem with the DC power lead running parallel with the signal lead on either this camera, nor my old QHY8.. I have read before that some people have those sorts of problems, however I guess I've just been lucky..
I'll have a go at reprocessing these shots with fresh eyes in a couple of days to see what I can do with regards to tightening the stars a little.. Although I do think its more an affect of poor focus than processing downfall... Time will tell..
My focuser flexture problems are less than most people with this scope.. Mostly due to the fact that my focuser is only racked out 14mm to reach focus.. Also, the effect of the focuser slop is lessened by the fairly small sensor in my ST9E... Yes, it does droop a little bit, although I've found having the focuser positioned upside down as seen in the pics with the locking screw tightly secured, it can be minimised to a useable level... A feathertouch motorised focuser is on its way from the states to rectify the problem completely...
Thanks for your comment Marc, I agree, M16 is the best of the bunch, Although I do really think the M8 image has potential to with some time spent reprocessing it..