1st guided DSLR pic (Carina) reprocessed

[Robert_T]

I tried re-processing my first guided DSLR pic from Sat night, this time using IP's auto processing routine and cropped to zoom in a little on the "action" ..s brings our the main objects, but bloats a little too that detracts. Anyway I'm at least getting a feel for what the different operations in IP actually do

At left my original simply stacked. AT right autoprocess and cropped.

This was with light and dark frames only, I haven't really worked out what "flats" are yet or bias frames

BTW I think I have a "hot pixel" as there is a bright red dot comes up on all the exposures... I assume this is fairly common and corrected by the darks?

Piggy backed the Canon 40D with Sigma 17-70 lens set at 70mm and F5.6 with 200ISO and 6 x 100s guided exposures. I used curves and brightness/contrast in Pixel Studio 2.0 to stretch the image.

[leon]

Rob, we all have to start some where, and you have taken the first step with you first attempt, and a good effort it is, keep at it and learn from all the good people here, (I did) and you will be on track for some serious imaging, well done for your first attempt.

leon

[Zuts]

Hi,

Good first attempt. If you want to also try a very interesting colouful target try the Rho Opiuchus Nebula complex around Antares. That would suit your focal length to a T.

You just need more or longer subs to strengthen the nebulosity detail and yes the darks should remove the hot pixel as long as they were taken at roughly the same temp. Check the dark, if it contains the hot pixel then you are good to go.

See this thread for Rho Opiuchus http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...ad.php?t=31656

Cheers Paul

[Robert_T]

Thanks for the encouragement guys, and thanks for the tip Paul on Rho Orphiucus neb complex... hmm that will be high in the sky when I'm next imaging jupiter. With Phd and Image Plus control on the camera, I can set it up on one scope and tunr my attention to joop on the other ... greed is starting to set in

cheers,

Rob

[Alchemy (Clive)]

Any first attempt is a good one, nice to break the ice.

Try upping your ISO to 800 the 40d is a good camera and will easily handle the speed..... as a matter of interest the 350d actually had its sweet spot at 800 for astro imaging, other cannon cameras are very similar (theres a small disertion on this in the help file in Deep sky Stacker).

Flats are a description of how the light falls on the chip through your scope, simply done by placing a good quality white T shirt over the main lens and exposing til you get a mid grey background..... you will notice a gradient or Vignetting at the corners. put into the stacking program it ...Flattens ..out the image so the corners get a bit more exposure applied.

cheers Clive

[Robert_T]

Thanks Clive, I really need this sort of advice. I didn't have a clue where to go with ISO so I will give 800 a go. I'm pretty light-polluted where I am... mag 3.

With the flat would I expose using the same settings as for the lights/darks, or is it more a feel thing to get the grey?

ta,

Rob

Originally Posted by Alchemy

Any first attempt is a good one, nice to break the ice.

Try upping your ISO to 800 the 40d is a good camera and will easily handle the speed..... as a matter of interest the 350d actually had its sweet spot at 800 for astro imaging, other cannon cameras are very similar (theres a small disertion on this in the help file in Deep sky Stacker).

Flats are a description of how the light falls on the chip through your scope, simply done by placing a good quality white T shirt over the main lens and exposing til you get a mid grey background..... you will notice a gradient or Vignetting at the corners. put into the stacking program it ...Flattens ..out the image so the corners get a bit more exposure applied.

cheers Clive