3D-print: EQ6 Pad

[Astrofriend (Lars)]

If you have a EQ6 mount as I do you maybe noticed that the bottom of it is not flat. If you want to install it on a pier you must have something between the EQ6 mount and the pier. I started with one made of wood and planned to replace it with one made of aluminum. But now when I have a 3D-printer, can it be made of plastic and still be stiff enough ?

Curious as I'm I have to do a test:
http://www.astrofriend.eu/3d-printin...1-eq6-pad.html

Still printing.

Lars

[Saturnine (Jeff)]

Hi Lars

I understand the benefits of having a 3D printer and the versatility they bring to designing bits and pieces but in the case of the spacer between the EQ mount and the plate , wouldn't it be just as practicable to find a local machine shop and have them machine one on a lathe or milling machine from either steel or aluminium or Delrin.
But I have to admit that being a tinkerer and having made lots of bits and pieces that there is some satisfaction to doing the work yourself.

[TrevorW]

Don't overestimate the rigidity of 3d printed plastic

[Astrofriend (Lars)]

In this case the pad is squized between to metal plates. It's not rubber, maybe work. Interesting to know for the future were the limit is for what plastic can be used for.

It cost me 4 Euro in material to print it, if I had let a workshop make the pad in metal it had cost at least 40 Euro, and it had been of much simpler shape. The weight of plastic material is much lower and it don't rust either :-)

Some updates:
http://www.astrofriend.eu/3d-printin...1-eq6-pad.html

/Lars

[TrevorW]

This may be of interest


https://www.researchgate.net/publica...in_FDM_Process

[Astroman (Andrew Wall)]

Although it might initially work, I think over time and various atmospheric conditions the plastic (depending on what you use) may deteriorate and possibly delaminate. You may be better off getting someone with a lathe to turn one up for you. I did that for my HEQ5Pro, just turned up some scrap mild steel billet, 10 years strong and still going.

Having said that it's an interesting project and I would recommend you giving it a go, but check it carefully. Maybe I can be proven wrong In that design there are many holes in it, I would remove them and increase the layer thickness to about 5mm or so with as much infill as you can. Experiment on different layer thicknesses and infill.

Please keep us informed of your progress. I have been thinking about getting a 3d printer for a while now. What Printer do you have?

[Astrofriend (Lars)]

Hallo Astroman, this is Astrofriend talking to you!

I bought the Kossel delta linear plus. I had a lot of problem to understand how to set it up. Now with the new software it should be a lot easier.

Here are some details how I did it:
http://www.astrofriend.eu/3d-printin...ter-setup.html

Now I can't live without my 3D-printer. Not only astronomy, my car also needs spare parts.

I don't think a massive without holes will be better. Only plastic where it's needed, the outer rim. I noticed that the bottom got warped, mostly because I changed material, with PLA it never behaive liked that.

I will be back with a report when I have used it for a couple of months, but summer now and can't do any more astronomy until the winter is back.

/Lars

[Astrofriend (Lars)]

Now I have designe a second pad, this one is for my HEQ5 mount. I changed some details to get it more stable.

Here it is (page 3):
http://www.astrofriend.eu/3d-printin...-heq5-pad.html

It's a seven hours print. Late in the night I can see if it succeed.

/Lars

[Astrofriend (Lars)]

Hi Rick,

I'm not sure if I understand your question. Do you mean who designed the pad ? Sorry to say it's me :-)

Hi have made a new design for the EQ6 pad:
http://www.astrofriend.eu/3d-printin...2-eq6-pad.html

/Lars

[Astrofriend (Lars)]

Maybe you have got problem as I did with the temperature regulation of the 3D-printer. In my case I got this problem when I changed from PLA to ABS pro filament. When I set the nozzle temperature to what's needed for ABS it didn't stabilize enough. It oschilated around the set temperature and the 3D-printer refused to start printing.

It was the P.I.D. parameters that was wrong. After some research I found how to solve this problem. I have write it down how I did it. Maybe interesting for other users of 3D-printers.

http://www.astrofriend.eu/3d-printin...ter-setup.html

/Lars