DC to DC step up converter v inverter

[traveller (Bo)]

Not sure if this has already been discussed, but I am looking at the relative merits of a DC step up converter v an inverter to power my laptop from a battery.
Has anyone done anything similar or know enough to comment?
My laptop power supply is 20V 150W.
Thanks
Bo

[Merlin66 (Ken)]

Bo,
I’ve been using voltage converters 12v to 15v, 120w for the past ten years on my HEQ5 and NEQ6- no issues no drama.
I also used a 12v to 19v to power my laptop for a while. Worked well, and more efficient than using an invertor.

[traveller (Bo)]

Thanks Ken,
Is there a specific model/make for the 12v - 19v booster for the laptop?
Bo

[Merlin66 (Ken)]

Bo,
I got mine in the UK, but I’m sure you’ll find something suitable at JayCar..

[The_bluester (Paul)]

In reality, using a battery, an inverter and then the normal laptop power supply IS using a DC to DC converter, it is just one in two boxes made by different manufacturers.



Doing it in a dedicated DC-DC converter would be more efficient as Ken said. They can pick an intermediate voltage and frequency based on what is most efficient rather than being bound to 240VAC 50hz.

[traveller (Bo)]

So I done a bit more search, I can get something like this ready made
https://www.jaycar.com.au/150w-car-l...upply/p/MP3472
Or,
I can get one of these and wire it up to a ciggie adapter one end and laptop plug adapter the other https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150W-DC-...QAAOSwPgxVMMMj
I also need a 7amp fuse.
Anything I missed?
Bo

[RobF (Rob)]

Originally Posted by Merlin66

Bo,
I’ve been using voltage converters 12v to 15v, 120w for the past ten years on my HEQ5 and NEQ6- no issues no drama.
I also used a 12v to 19v to power my laptop for a while. Worked well, and more efficient than using an invertor.

I wouldn't have thought to do that Ken. So you boost the voltage a bit off the 12V battery to avoid stalling or low voltage problems during slews or as battery drains?

[The_bluester (Paul)]

Can I suggest if you can do it on both sides of the connector, using something like a DT connector instead of a cigarette lighter adapter, the ONLY advantages to those things is having an inline fuse and being common.

The DT connectors have a specific crimp tool but you can get cheap ones that work pretty well for about $50. I have done most of my racecar with a cheapie, though after a couple of hundred crimps my knuckles wish I bought an expensive one.

[Merlin66 (Ken)]

Bo, et al,
The one I'm using looks almost identical to the MP 3472, as I said it's worked well for ten years!

Powering the SW mounts at 15V stops any low voltage issues...

(I also had it powering my LX200 at 18V at one time....)

[traveller (Bo)]

Originally Posted by The_bluester

Can I suggest if you can do it on both sides of the connector, using something like a DT connector instead of a cigarette lighter adapter, the ONLY advantages to those things is having an inline fuse and being common.

The DT connectors have a specific crimp tool but you can get cheap ones that work pretty well for about $50. I have done most of my racecar with a cheapie, though after a couple of hundred crimps my knuckles wish I bought an expensive one.

Thanks Paul. Yes, ciggie connectors are not ideal. I can always to Anderson plugs and an in line blade fuse.

Originally Posted by Merlin66

Bo, et al,
The one I'm using looks almost identical to the MP 3472, as I said it's worked well for ten years!

Powering the SW mounts at 15V stops any low voltage issues...

(I also had it powering my LX200 at 18V at one time....)

Thanks Ken,
I was looking at powering my laptop from a battery. My mount power is not really an issue.

[Merlin66 (Ken)]

Bo,
The MP 3472 will do that job for you....
Ken