Hi Robin,
I have travelled extensively through India, Bangladesh, Nepal and Pakistan.
What I like about the sub-continent is that all five senses work overtime.
For example, when you wait on a railway station say here or in Europe
the wait is usually dull.
By contrast, in India or Pakistan on a railway platform, everything is
happening. Porters with colourful turbans, dudes carrying impossible
numbers of cardboard boxes/tifins/suitcases/bales, dudes climbing up
on the roof of the train, dudes hanging outside the doors of moving
trains, the sight of an otherwise tough looking conductor and guard
standing on the platform holding pinkies (why do they do that?
).
Not to mention the smells or the cacophony of sounds.
In all that chaos with all your senses on overload and your wits about
you, you feel alive.
But it is not for everyone. In fact it is not for most people I know.
Some family and friends I think would just die.
India can be a frustrating, bureaucratic, place. You need to stay calm
but improvise so that your journey may progress. Expect illogical
Pythonesque arguments. If you get on the airport bus, have waited
half an hour with no driver in sight, go sit in the driver's seat and
look as if you might be about to drive it yourself. The driver
suddenly materialises in a panic and you are on your way.
You are obviously travelling on a bigger budget than I ever did.
The curious thing about India is that you can go from the poorest of
the poor to the richest of the rich. I mean eye-watering rich where
there are more billionaires (some 151 of them) in Mumbai than there
are in New York city.
So you can find yourself in exclusive clubs with servants and uniformed
toilet attendants that go through the motion of brushing dandruff
from the collar of your casual shirt with a camel hair brush.
Or you can find yourself in slums.
I would never have spent more than a few dollars on accommodation.
At a Salvation Army hostel in Calcutta, I was directed to my small room
which contained one large bed which for a few nights I shared with
six young American and European woman who were also backpacking
and who had been assigned the same room and bed.
What do you expect for only two dollars a night?
Always be careful around Amritsar and the palace.
If there are elections or political rallies on, stay clear.
Watch yourself in large crowds at festivals. I've nearly been crushed
to death in the enthusiasm of a crowd. Once your feet no longer are making
contact with the ground and you are being swept forth like in a strong surf
you are no longer in control. In my instance police beating at the
crowd with fold-up wooden chairs quelled their enthusiasm.
Chai is just mixed up in one big pot with milk and sugar and that's
how it comes. The sweetness helps when it is hot and you are sweating.
Never eat salads or fruit you did not peel yourself.
Always agree on a price of a fare before you travel. If the driver
says "as you wish" and waggles his head, offer some nominal amount
and if he repeats "as you wish", it generally means he is in agreement
and trusting your generosity.
If you are game and it is not hot, I always like to ride on the roof of
the bus, but wear a long sleeved jacket for the times when draping
power lines brush over you. Thankfully the power is so unreliable that
they are not live most of the time.
I hired a jeep with a driver once to take me from New Siliguri
to a border town on the Indian side of the Nepalese border
and along the way a whole village had turned out on the highway
to stone the vehicle. Even grandmothers were throwing rocks.
I told the driver "drive!" as rocks pounded us. I don't think
it was anything personal. I had never been on that stretch of
highway my entire life. But I am not about to pass through there again.
You will see more amazing things in an hour than you would staying
at home for a year. At times you will be in awe and amazement.
At other times frustrated and angry. But keep your emotions in check.
Remember, you are simply passing through.
Best Regards
Gary
