I finally made the jump to install a pier in my backyard, got sick of setting up and aligning everytime. So dug a hole, poured some concrete, embedded M20 x 300mm bolts and fixed a pier onto it.
I plan to leave the mount outside covered with a Large plastic Compost Bin that I saw in bunnings with the mount covered in tarp. So will keep just the OTA and camera indoors.
This is more of a temporary installation and I know it doesn't have the gussets like many do and its not as much concrete as others, but i'm not too fussed with how rigid it is, its temporary and my payload is only 11Kg on an NEQ6. so total about 30Kg max.
I ended up using about 5 1/2 bags of pre-mix, and kept it below ground level so it can be covered. I couldn't dig too deep so dug a bit wide, hole was 50cmx40cmx50cm deep.
I could break down the concrete if I have to. so kept it at the minimum.
I saw an ad in gumtree for some security Bollards, and thought that would suit perfectly. so contacted this company in south dandenong and he had a huge array of various sizes. I picked one that was 160mm in dia and had the foot plate already welded on. its made from 10mm Steel.
since I didn't have access to a lathe for an adaptor plate and neither did he, I sent him some drawings of a plate and adaptor plate with holes and a small pipe underneath that did not require a lathe. just welding.
so he did the whole thing with zinc plating for a very decent price and is happy to do similar ones if anyone's interested.
I used an M12 bolt to secure the mount from underneath and the knurled knob from the eyepiece holder of the mount to counter tighten it. works very well.
I just need to drill a hole and fix a bolt for the azimuth adjustment.
Fixed it up last night and its very sturdy.
can't wait to get the polar alignment done and start some imaging.
Great looking pier Alistair. I take it that the top plate is able to be levelled using the four bolts. not sure about stability with ony 50cm deep concrete, you might find some movement over a period of time, depending on your soil.
Yep Sarge, it might move, but I thought having the concrete wide might help.
there's about 0.1 cubic metre of concrete.
I used a 5/8" threaded rod for the top plates and I levelled the jig at the base while laying the bolts so I didn't have to adjust the pier plates too much.
I'd also thought of placing a layer of stones before pouring the concrete, but then just went with it.
I might have an issue if I leave the counter weights on but remove the ota as that could tend to tilt the pier over time. but we'll see as its only 10kg.
Cheers
Last edited by alistairsam; 17-06-2013 at 03:50 PM.
Thanks Chris,
I stayed back so got the chance to mark a solar noon shadow on the pier.
I'll drill a hole, fix a bolt for the azimuth adjustment and it should get me a good starting point.
planning to do a polar alignment run tonight with an RC-6 and the ccd method. once I get no drift over atleast 10mins, I can make make some permanent marks on the mount base and pier plate so if I do remove the mount, i'll be very close.
also rigging up a webcam for the polar scope. unfortunately the scp is blocked by the house, but should help at dark sites.
need to dab some paint on the threaded rods where i've cut as the exposed area is rusting quick.
finally planning to get that compost bin installed as a form of an igloo for basic protection from the elements. might line it with some bubble wrap for insulation.
finally completed installing the mount and scope today.
It was nice to see that the levelling was correct from the start, cause I just placed the neq6 on the pier and the spirit level was right in the centre.
started with the polar alignment routine, now there's no looking back.
wish I could build an Obs around this.
Cheers
Alistair
Alistair, could you tell me how your plate adapter works? What is the welded on plate on the top for (the bit the EQ6 sits on)? Also, what is the short 30mm ID pipe for?
I'm trying to work out a minimalist approach to making one of these, including avoiding the rat cage approach and bolting the top plate directly to the bottom, after attaching the EQ6 (or in my case the AZ-EQ6). I think I'd need to have a hole drilled in the plate welded to the bollard so the bolt holding the mount to the top plate has somewhere to go, but otherwise I can't see why your design wouldn't work.
Ha! I actually just saw some bollards on ebay and was thinking of using these myself. I could potentially be interested in one to suit an NEQ6 as well. Any idea if they'll freight, and what the cost of the pier might be?
Edit: Just realised this is an old, resurrected thread and you probably aren't even in contact with the company anymore.
I've actually gotten in email contact with the company and will probably speak with them tomorrow. I'm just trying to work out what sort of metalwork I'll need to get made if they can still do that.
I was going for a walk along Waverley road today and FOUND a bollard very similar to yours. Needless to say it ended up in my boot and is now sitting in the garage waiting to be fixed up.
I've gotten to speak with the guy that made this for Alistair. He seems pretty keen to make these and he also thinks freighting them around shouldn't be too expensive. They manufacture bollards so he can customise the whole thing to how you want. I'll make sure I post up what he makes for me (probably later in June).
Still working out the exact details of what he'll make, so no price at this point. It'll probably be similar to Alistair's in design but with a few modifications (such as gussets). But my feeling is it won't be too expensive, but it will really depend on design.
I'm considering just getting one of the portable ones Andrew's is selling for $349. At a glance I might be able to remove the wheels and bolt it to the footing through the holes meant for the levelling screws. No photos on their site but I'm assuming it's the same as this.
Yeah it is a shame. I'll have to think of alternatives. I'd like to sketch up a blueprint for what I want, but haven't gotten around to it. I've done a fair bit of research and rough design on what would work.