Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain_Wanderer
So I should be aiming for a focal ratio around f6.3 ?
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I'll see if I can find the reference to f6.3 in some of my old books. I remember reading about it 25 years ago and I then started a 10.1" f6.3 project. 10.1" was the Pyrex blanks a company called Coulter used to sell at the time. The discussion that resulted in f6.3 was based around rich field telescopes. I seem to have a bit of deja vu here as I now remember looking for this reference once before and I think it's now not in the Ingalls ATM books but in another source I had borrowed from a public library once.
The f6.3 on a 10.1" also suited me in a Dob configuration as the height of the eyepiece off the ground was eye level at zenith for me meaning no step ladder. This was with the eyepiece at 90 deg to the side of the tube. I have since rotated the eyepiece 30 deg. so that lower viewing positions are more comfortable.
I also had my mirror professionally figured as I was never really happy with my own results due to rushing the project during figuring (a big no no in mirror making). After being corrected my 10.1" is now f6.4 and gives remarkable images of the highest contrast.
You wont get f6.3 commercially but can get f6 in an 8" Dob. However if you want 10" for brighter images, I wouldn't let f ratio be the deciding factor since a 10" f5 will perform very well and with good eyepieces even the extra coma will not likely bother you at all and unless you do use high quality eyepieces you're likely to see other aberration first at f5 or f6.
The difference in brightness is a function of surface area. Just square the radius or diameters as its the ratio your are after. e.g. an 8" is 8x8/6x6=64/36=1.78 times brighter than a 6". A 10" is 10x10/8x8=100/64=1.56 times brighter than an 8". A 10" is 100/36=2.78 times brighter than a 6".
Choose f5 or f6 and you will be happy. Best advice is to buy the biggest mirror you can afford to purchase and also afford to move around physically.