Not yet, but more close: ngc3247 - R+RGB / updated with ngc3324
Well, I was betrayed by focus, but the seeing was good, and I could shot the region.
I haven't, yet, a defined procedure to HaRGB, I am trying and experiencing. And the files Halfa are coming with appearence of too much noise. Perhaps I need much more number os files to get a good and clear one. Really, I don't know.
The red channel always is the worse in noise.
a) my coma corrector is prouducing reflex because of use of OAG and Filter Wheel. As you can see in the photo 3 it is with more 13 mm than the recommended. And I can not reduce this distance without cut the body of Canon.
Ok, I can process the round black reflex, but it will reduce the details inside the area if they exists.
photo 2: the reflex
photo 3: my set of equipment
b) the file Halfa is with much granulation. Binned or not binned is the same. I can process and smooth, but with this I loose details. If the nebula hasn't details... no problem, but if there are some one they loose the sharp appearance.
I am using dark file in DSS, and the granulation isn't from noise sensor. They are many white dot.
I will try with minor ISO, since the experience with 3200 didn't result bether and smooth images.
My last try was with Gabriela Mistral nebula. And there was benefits. The nebula was very faint in normal RGB images. The file with alfa information helped to show the nebula.
No, Kevin. I can't. To get focus with Canon I needed to cut 35 mm of the OTA.
Today, with the configuration that you saw, the focuser is away about 20 mm. This is only the wheel.
And, warnning, my coma corrector is a GSO and it has a barlow behavior of 1.14x. I don't get focus with only Canon and OAG. Because of the OAG and adaptors.
I tryed to put only the OAG in front of Coma corrector, but with the adaptors needed, is the same. I have more than 20 mm. I don't get focus.
The solution is very easy: cut more 10 mm of the OTA. This issue is new to me. Using only the skyglow filter, I put it before the coma corrector. So, the reflex doesn't occurs.
And, attention, I changed the adaptor Canon-T2 (10 mm) by Canon-M42 (1 mm).
With the Canon-T2 the reflex is very worse and different. The total distance was 93 mm. See the photos. The star is Cannopus. Photo 1 with skyglow filter. Photo 2 with Halfa filter.
The great problem is only one: Canon ! His sensor is very deep, inside the body of the camera.
The fatal problem is only one: money ! I haven't money to buy a good mono camera.
That's one of the reasons I went for the Baader MKIII coma corrector instead of the GSO version. I've read the GSO CC needs 17mm of extra back focus where the Baader one actually gives you a few mm so the difference between the two coma correctors could be as much as 20mm.
Don't worry, I'm in the same boat money wise. A decent mono camera is out of my price range, but I'm still having fun with my DSLR. At the rate I'm firing the shutter though, it will wear out soon lol.
Kevin, about MPCC Baader... I don't know. The GSO has 70 mm maximum. The Baader has 50 mm maximum. With my set: filter wheel and OAG ... It seems that Baader will be worse.
Did you use wheel and OAG ? If you did, how did you solve the problem of distance to coma corrector ?
For me, up to now, I didn't find any solution if you are using a Canon. At least with the body of Canon T3 or 350D. Perhaps with others DSLR with a body more thin ... maybe.
note: I forgot. With a newtonian telescope like GSO, with focus very inner to focuser.
No I don't use an OAG or filter wheel. To change filters I just screw them into the coma corrector thread. Camera alignment between filters has to be readjusted and won't be exactly the same, but this is actually good because it acts like dithering and reduces noise. Final alignment is done in photoshop.
Jorge - the coma corrector distance to the camera sensor must be exact to get the proper effect. I looked up the MPCC mk3 (not sure if this is your version or not) and the distance from the corrector to the sensor must be 55m:
-- camera side connection: M48 and T2
-- Focus distance from the T2 thread: 55 mm
-- Focus distance from the M48 thread: 57,5mm (with the optional Adapter BA2458405 the distance turns to 55mm) http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/...-5-to-f-6.html
The off-axis guider takes up 13mm, the Canon takes 44mm (from memory), so that may work but better if you had a dedicated spacer.
You'll then have to make adjustments to your scope to get enough back-focus so that the whole image train can get to focus.
-Cam
yes, Cam. You were more precise than me about the Baader distance. I had intention to buy this Baader corrector. It works well with my OAG. I changed the idea because of 20 mm of filter wheel. My filter wheel has remote control, a good resource. And because Baader hasn't barlow behavior.
I don't want to cut more the OTA. I can manage the "black hole" reflex in Photoshop with clone stamp tool. Normally we publish photos with 1200 up to 2400 pixels. Canon has 4272 x 2848 pixels. So, the reduction reduces the perception of this "black hole".
Today I can't buy a mono camera... but future is future ... Maybe an old camera from a mate, doing an upgrade... less expensive.
Quote:
Kevin, wrote: it acts like dithering and reduces noise
Wow ! I never thought to use this ressource. I can forge this little unalignment; a good idea to test.
When it is raining the whole day... What we can do is to reprocess.
This time I used two times the Halfa file. One on the red channel, and other as layer with color blending mode with mininum filter and much noise reduction to create a faint red texture to the clouds.
I didn't use a intense HDR convertion of DSS 32 bits to Photoshop 16 bits, since it would be applyed twice. And the final result was a more smoth and better stars colors. Mainly the stars inside the region of nebula.
I didn't use stars mask, yet.
photo 1: new result
photo 2: detail of stars color
