That looks very nice. I presume you haven't had time to test it under the sky, but have you noticed any difference (ie. noise, smoothness of drive etc?).
Do you have a before and after PE curve?
Have you considered adding belt tensioners? That will reduce backlash and tighter guiding response even further.
That looks very nice. I presume you haven't had time to test it under the sky, but have you noticed any difference (ie. noise, smoothness of drive etc?).
Do you have a before and after PE curve?
Have you considered adding belt tensioners? That will reduce backlash and tighter guiding response even further.
I like my ieq45 Well done!
cheers,
Bram
Sorry for not replying earlier, no I don't have a PE curve unfortunately, do you reckon belt tensioners would add much improvement?
I would say the motors run slightly quieter, am yet to do a serious test with the tracking.
Sorry for not replying earlier, no I don't have a PE curve unfortunately, do you reckon belt tensioners would add much improvement?
Hi Jo,
No worries. Yes, I found my guiding was improved, it was more responsive with reduced backlash. No real numbers unfortunately.
But then maybe with your new worm upgrade, a smaller pitch in the belt will be more of an improvement. I have been looking for pullies and belts with a 2mm pitch, but have not found any.
No worries. Yes, I found my guiding was improved, it was more responsive with reduced backlash. No real numbers unfortunately.
But then maybe with your new worm upgrade, a smaller pitch in the belt will be more of an improvement. I have been looking for pullies and belts with a 2mm pitch, but have not found any.
I haven't got any real PE curves either ...
cheers,
Bram
Well, you must have been convincing because I made some belt tensioners today
Wasn't sure exactly how you made yours but do ya think these will work? I just drilled and tapped a hole in the side of the casing and screwed in a brass bolt holding a hard drive bearing for the roller. It's not adjustable but keeps the belt nice a firm. (see the pics)
I have also got a new counter weight shaft made in at Greys in Dalby, it is a bit longer so I can balance the scope without any extra counter weights, and also it's solid stainless so a bit more classy than the original chromed steel one.
That's a neat idea for the Tensioner But you might want to add one on each side of the belt for both directions, that way the number of tooth engaged would be more than without the temsioner, in both directions, depending on how much slack there is in the belt.
Too tight is when the motors require more than ~600mA (if my memory serve me right), as then the controller will give you an 'over current' error. If you keep it around 400mA when slewing at max speed you should be fine.
That's a neat idea for the Tensioner But you might want to add one on each side of the belt for both directions, that way the number of tooth engaged would be more than without the temsioner, in both directions, depending on how much slack there is in the belt.
Cheers
Alistair
Thanks Alistair, I'm not really concerned in engaging any more teeth, just getting rid of any potential belt slop, but thank for the input. So far it looks like it's working well.
Too tight is when the motors require more than ~600mA (if my memory serve me right), as then the controller will give you an 'over current' error. If you keep it around 400mA when slewing at max speed you should be fine.
cheers,
Bram
Thanks for the pics Bram, looks pretty much what I did (great minds think alike )
No worries. Yes, I found my guiding was improved, it was more responsive with reduced backlash. No real numbers unfortunately.
But then maybe with your new worm upgrade, a smaller pitch in the belt will be more of an improvement. I have been looking for pullies and belts with a 2mm pitch, but have not found any.
Thanks Rowland. Had a quick look and indeed promising. I need a 6mm bore I think and as you can see the space is minimal (if you want to keep the original cover on it). Most of the pulleys are quite wide, made some re-machining (e.g. fit the grub screw inline with were the belts runs and remove the 'side' bit) and they will fit.
Well done!
so a bit more classy than the original chromed steel one.
