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Old 25-05-2013, 08:01 PM
U.K.Cowboy (Stuart)
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Windy Saturn May 22nd

Despite the wind i got a reasonable image or 2 after having some hardware issues with the cameras losing contact with my netbook not sure if this was a driver or cable issue but need to do some tests. Anyhow after 45 mins of frustration got some avis using colour and IR.
This was first light with my new 3x tv barlow and 6" primary fan (cheapo laptop usb fan).

Below are a colour and colour/IR image using both QHY cams. Transparency was excellent making 50fps possible with 100% gain.
Elevation 24 degrees.
Edit: Added IR 742 image.
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Click for full-size image (Drizzle15_23-49-52-578-Part0000_pipp_g4_b3_ap9 guess CROP.png)
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Click for full-size image (2013-05-22-2252.5 IR COLOUR COMBO.png)
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Click for full-size image (Drizzle15_23-13-7-640-Part0000_pipp_g4_b3_ap8 guess.png)
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Last edited by U.K.Cowboy; 25-05-2013 at 08:29 PM.
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  #2  
Old 25-05-2013, 08:48 PM
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asimov (John)
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You had the fan running for these, Stuart? They look ok & not really vibration effected if you were..

Nice job!
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Old 25-05-2013, 09:01 PM
U.K.Cowboy (Stuart)
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Thanks John yes the fan was running all the way through. I could not detect vibration but with the wind also blowing it was hard to tell properly. Looks good for tonight with calm air so should be a proper test.
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Old 25-05-2013, 09:39 PM
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asimov (John)
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Ok good stuff. What is a 'flexdob' anyway - Is that like a collapsible? Any indication of this 'cyclonic' effect that I was raving about recently? Easiest way to see if it's effecting anything is point the scope at a bright star or even Saturn perhaps, bung in a 20mm EP & heavily defocus.
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Old 25-05-2013, 09:49 PM
U.K.Cowboy (Stuart)
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Yes the flextube collapses Mr. Cyclonic Raver. I shall try the star test thanks John unless I see clouds on the horizon and rush for the camera lol.

The fan is very quiet and pretty slow which I figured would be better than a smaller faster one.
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Old 26-05-2013, 11:48 AM
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Quark (Trevor)
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Impressive result for the alt Stuart, might be worth a try running the fan for 2 or 3 hours prior to imaging and then turning it off about 5 minutes prior to capturing data as a comparison to capturing data with it running.

Of course, just using a fan to circulate ambient air over your primary, will never result in your mirror achieving ambient temperature. Your mirror is a quite large heat sink and its temperature will always lag behind ambient as the ambient drops through the night. The only way around that is to use an active cooling system that will circulate air at below ambient over your mirror.

When I first was made aware of this by Bird, initially I had doubts but having built my own peltier cooler and seen the difference it can make, particularly in good seeing, I have become a convert.

Have attached a link to Birds original work on this subject, note that from the bottom of his first page is a link to his ongoing testing.

http://www.acquerra.com.au/astro/cooling/

Regards
Trevor
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Old 27-05-2013, 07:02 AM
U.K.Cowboy (Stuart)
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Thanks for the link Trevor! I guess my idea with the fan is to close the temp gap more than what it will be without a fan running during imaging. I've had some good shots from last night so it does seem to be working.
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