Gso rc10 ota

[DannyV (Danny)]

Hi Folks,
I'm looking to upgrade to a CGEM-DX mount and a different main OTA.
Can you please give me your opinion of the GSO RC10 carbon fibre version?

Reading around, I suppose it needs to be modified with a MoonLite focuser, re-flocked and re collimated ?
(Have I missed anything)?

It is to be used for mainly wide field astro photography with an EOS 60Da, in a permanent location (protected and air conditioned) on a mini pier - remote controlled and supported by a W.O. GT 81 and GSTAR-EX CLR video cameras.



Many thanks

[E_ri_k (Erik)]

Before I bought my RC10 CF I ordered a Moonlite focuser for it, as I had read that that was a must do upgrade. When the scope arrived I understood why! The Moonlit is VERY solid and I have had no problems with it.

As for collimation, I struggled a bit to get it perfect, but that was mainly due to the centre spot on the secondary not being properly positioned, and I was getting conflicting results when star testing and using my collimation scope. I only needed to adjust the secondary, and haven't touched the primary.

I have had no issues to make me consider re-flocking the scope.

That being said, I am very happy with my scope, the built in fans are great, solid build, nice thick spider veins. Visually it produces clear, sharp views. I only managed to get one image out of it last year, but that was only because of running out of time, and my camera breaking......

For the price, I think it's a great buy.

Erik

[allan gould]

+1 for me too, however I really wonder about the CF tube as I have an aluminium tube with a moonlight focuser with stepper motor. Using SGPro the scope refocuses for every degree drop in temperature and when changing filters. Personally I've seen no advantage except for weight.
It's a great scope and had no problem with collimation.
Hope that helps. If you have more questions just ask.Remember for the price of the CF vs Al tube you can get the moonlight with stepper motor.
Allan

[cybereye (Mario)]

I have the CF RC8 and it's a good scope. However at F/8 and a FL of 2000mm I'm not sure you'd really use the RC10 for wide-field imaging...

Cheers,
Mario

[DannyV (Danny)]

Thanks Guys for all your help.
Allan I'm going for CF because weight is a factor for me but thanks anyway.
Mario, how would the following go in that scope:
Baader Alan Gee Mark II Telecompressor (Flattener / Reducer)
http://tinyurl.com/d8quw55 ,
or:Antares 2" 0.7x Focal Reducer
http://tinyurl.com/clr7dhm
In Photographing a wider field?

Cheers!
Danny

[allan gould]

The usual FR for this scope is the AP CCD67 or it's larger brother. I have the former and it's faultless.

[dannat (Daniel)]

Danny depending on what you image with the Antares unit may be too small

[DannyV (Danny)]

At the moment all I have is a EOS 60Da camera which has a APS-C (22.3 x 14.9mm) sensor so this stage the AP CCD67 would be over the top but I suppose that wouldn't matter would it but would the ones I mentioned still be too small?

[cybereye (Mario)]

Danny,

I don't use a reducer as I'm more interested in the smaller objects of the night sky. However I'd go with what Allan suggested...

Cheers,
Mario

[Manav (Yugant)]

I have this setup and only used it once too! I dont know why you are worried about flocking and collimation. The scope is pretty well built; my only recommendation would be to get a good focuser.

[DannyV (Danny)]

Yes, The flocking was based on a report I read from a few years ago on a smaller tube, and several reports I've read about them needing re-collimation, obviously (thankfully) the standards have improved since then. Yes I'm getting a Moonlight focuser.
Cheers and thanks,
Danny

[DannyV (Danny)]

By the way guys,
The reason I mentioned those two focal reducers is because I already own them, I should have mentioned that, sorry.

Cheers,
Danny

[Star Catcher (Ted Dobosz)]

Originally Posted by DannyV

Yes, The flocking was based on a report I read from a few years ago on a smaller tube, and several reports I've read about them needing re-collimation, obviously (thankfully) the standards have improved since then. Yes I'm getting a Moonlight focuser.
Cheers and thanks,
Danny

Hi Danny

I have a RC10 and it is capable of great results, but can also be a pain if you have a tendency to chasing perfection. I think the flocking issue was sorted out early on by GSO in their RC8 models, others can confirm.

The collimation issue is something that there is always a potential for, either because of factory setup or shipping. The extent to which this makes you unhappy will be a function of the size of non collimation, the size of the chip you are using, the focal length, the accuracy of tracking (can mask issues), your eyesight and how much you tend to pixel peep.

There is a high probability that somewhere along the line you'll be chasing collimation issues and muttering under your breadth. A Tak collimator is a solution that many recommend, particularly if you don't want to spend hours eyeballing the star donut symmetry across the CCD field

Ted

[allan gould]

My advice is don't over think the collimation issue as it is essentially the same as any other scope. I had a VC200L that was badly out of collimation with every component played with. Using Vixens eyeball procedure and then a star test all was perfect with round stars across the field ( not the usual triangular stars). The same with the GSO RC scopes. Can all be done with the eyeball and then when close just use Al's collimation aid to get those stars absolutely round and it will be perfect. A mythology builds up about these scopes and collimation due to people posting that havnt spent the time to learn how to do it properly. A Tak scope will get you very close but it still needs a final touch up with a star test. It isn't an overly difficult task, just use the front collimation screws and you really won't have to play with anything else.
Allan

[Paul Haese]

Hi Danny,

no doubt you read my review of the need to flock the RC8 that I have. It was the second batch of RC scopes made by GSO and since my review the baffle tube has been redesigned to eliminate the need for further flocking.

I have an RC12 now and that produces very good results. The RC10 has many good images taken with them and you can find quite a few of those published right here.

The focusor is really a must if you want to do a lot of imaging with the scope. Base model focusor is just not up to scratch for imaging. It produces inconsistent results and flexes quite a lot.

As to collimation this is a given with any reflecting telescope. I suggest you take a look at a few sites on how to collimate an RC telescope so that you can undertake the task properly. It is quite easy when you follow the instruction. Ken Crawford has a video for collimating the rear cell but most times you don't need to worry about adjusting the rear assembly.

Let us know if you have any further queries.

[DannyV (Danny)]

Thanks Guys,
Yes Paul, That's the review I had read, thanks for the update. I've ordered a MoonLite and Hopefully the RC10 and mount will be organised shortly.
Cheers all!
Danny.

[DannyV (Danny)]

Paul & co, I notice the latest RC10 Focuser has 2" travel, but I've only ordered 1 1/2 " on the MoonLite - it hasn't shipped yet - do you think I should try and change it to 2" travel?
I expect to have an OAG and sooner or later a filter wheel then the camera or an eyepiece projection and camera.

Thanks,
Danny

[Star Catcher (Ted Dobosz)]

Originally Posted by DannyV

Paul & co, I notice the latest RC10 Focuser has 2" travel, but I've only ordered 1 1/2 " on the MoonLite - it hasn't shipped yet - do you think I should try and change it to 2" travel?
I expect to have an OAG and sooner or later a filter wheel then the camera or an eyepiece projection and camera.

Thanks,
Danny

Hi Danny

I have the 1.5 inch travel and it works fine on both my rc8 and rc10. The RC10 will come with extension rings that you can mix and match to minimise any focuser drawtube over hang.

Ted

[allan gould]

You won't need the 2" of travel. The 10" works fine with two spacers.
Allan

[Paul Haese]

If you need anything Danny it will be an extension which threads on the back of the scope. You can get them from Bintel.