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Old 08-11-2010, 01:19 AM
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Ivyking (Boff)
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Scope and mount advice

Hi again people

I would like some advice on some scopes and mounts that some people use or have used.

I was considering getting a manual 8" or 10" Dobsonian scope but after looking OS at prices i have decided that a computerized goto mount is not out of the question for me. I was looking at a few Cassegrain scopes such as the Nexstar SE series but found that a wedge would be needed to take photos without motion blur on the edges of the picture. I think only the SE 4" has a built in wedge but that is to small in my op. So I have been looking at the computerized EQ mounts that are around and a couple of scopes that are taking my fancy so far are the MEADE LXD-75 10" Schmidt-Newtonian and the Celestron Advanced Series C8-SGT Schmidt-Cassegrain Telescope (on a CG-5 GT mount) Are there any members that use either of these? or something similar?

Size and transportation is an issue for me and as i would like to dabble or at least attempt to take some DSO images i have decided to get a goto mount. Both these scopes are at the very limit of what I am prepared to pay for my first telescope. I am not at all worried about the learning curve of using these as my first scope as I am by no means stephen hawking but i am fairly mechanically minded and good with my hands, I am also an engineering student :-)

Getting a cheap Dob would be great but i am worried i will outgrow it to quick and i only have access to a small car. A cass is ideal for me and if anyone knows of a great scope and mount that provides the power of say an 8" dob i would welcome the recommendation. I do plan on attending the local meeting tomorrow night if the weather is clear just to speak to some people.

but advice on those scopes i have suggested ie strengths weaknesses would be welcomed.

If you need me to clarify anything just let me know.

Cheers people


Ps i should note i am interested in observing deep sky mostly and some solar system observing as well. Also I am looking at getting the Orion ED80 80mm f/7.5 Apo Refractor Telescope as my next purchase for solar system viewing and imaging, would this be a complimentary scope for viewing the solar system?
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:13 AM
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NorthernLight (Max)
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Hi Boff,

welcome to IIS!
you have probably heard it before but there is no perfect scope for everything.
But if I get you right then a C8 on an EQ6 pro GOTO mount with a ED80 as guidescope is a pretty advanced "beginners" setup for both visual and photographic ambitions-given that you have at least a DSLR.
I have looked through a C8 on a starparty and found it very nice - much higher resolving power than my OmniXLT. Itīs not ideal for very large nebulae but for that you have the ED80-with which I am very happy.
Make no mistake: the solar system is the place where you need the big guns with several meter focal lenght (C8), deepspace objects are usually so huge that a smaller focal lenght scope shows them better-more complete.
Donīt forget to budget for good eyepieces (good=expensive) and a barlow.

Cheers
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Old 08-11-2010, 02:33 PM
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Ivyking (Boff)
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Thanks for the reply max

the ED80 is down the track...but before the transit of venus ;-)

Max you mentioned a little about focal ratios and i have been doing my research and that is why i suggested those two scopes in comparison they are similar price but the 10" MAEDE LXD75 has a focal ratio of f/4 and the 8" C8 f/10. im sorry to say im a little bit confused as to what is better for observing. Now i know a f/5 is quicker (and easier to take pics with) and a f/10 is slower requiring more time for image collection and exposures, also that a quicker scope will show darker blacks and brighter brights BUT that is just because the image is smaller in the eye piece yes? I also know that different targets will benefit from different focal lengths whether they be stars nebula galaxies or planets. So my next question is this given that i would like to buy an ED80 next to do more serious AP which scope would be better to use so that the targets it is not great with the ED80 will be more suited? A 10" f/4 Schmidt Newtonian or a 8" f/10 Schmidt-Cassegrain?

I know aperture rules so i am leaning toward the 10" but conversely would the 8" f/10 be a better choice as it has the longer Focal length and any short comings from that can be corrected with a barlow lens? ot is that not logical?

Ps the Maede comes with a bonus eye peice pack valued at $249 ATM so thats why I am considering that model but that isnt really an influencing factor over the C/8 as Maede make an identical model that comes with the same bonus.

PPS i do have a DSLR but i am not expecting to get anything close to the images on ISS with that and my first scope :-)

Once again thank you for your time and if reply thanks for the input.
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Old 09-11-2010, 01:04 PM
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NorthernLight (Max)
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Hey Boff,

let me answer your questions a bit more selective without touching the physics and in plain english (be careful with the used term "magnification" - a galaxy is in fact several light years large, to speak of magnification if we view it in an eyepiece is technically wrong):

focal lenght; focal ratio and what follows from it:

-the focal lenght (fl) is the distance from the objective to the occular it is usually expressed in mm. The fl determines the native magnification of a telescope - the longer the fl the higher the native magnification
The light path in an SCT is folded so the tube is only half a meter whilst the actual fl is 2m

-the focal ratio (F/.. - e.g. F/5) is the result of the following calculation:
focal lenght in mm divided by objective diameter (aperture) in mm (e.g. 1000mm(fl)/200mm(aperture)=F5
!!! camera lenses are different, their f-ratios mean something else !!!

What follows:

a telescope at F10 spreads the light of a nebula e.g. over a wider area at the occular (or camera) resulting in higher maginification than a telescope of same aperture at F5 - hence a brighter image results with less magnificiation BUT: the light gathering power of a telescope depends on itīs objective diameter and nothing else! (a 2" F3 is easily outperformed by a 6" F6)

To view a small object like a planet a long focal lenght is desireble, to view an extended object like a nebula a shorter focal lenght is desireble because a longer focal lenght would only reveal parts of that object (the horsehead with flame nebula -picture attached- just fit on a APS-C sensor -Canon 450D- with 750mm fl; at 1,5m fl only one of them would fit on the sensor).

The focal lenght of a telescope can be adjusted to a certain extend with focal reducers or tele extenders/barlow lenses.

A telescope with a longer fl will give a darker sky background and a smaller field of view. The opposite is true for shorter flīs.

When it comes to imaging it is a bit like daytime photography - for architecture shots get a widefield lens, for distant animals get a telezoom - aperture rules but a minute longer exposure compensates that.

For astrophotography a good equatorial (eq) tracking mount and a rigid tripod are absolutely necessary. All eq mounts have imperfections that need to be compensated by guiding (manual, auto).
Imperfections will result in trailing stars. These are much more evident in pictures taken at long fl than at short fl as the higher magnification makes it faster visible.
It is not that easy to succesfully guide at long flīs such as the 2m of the F10 cassegrain scopes. But below 1m it is pretty easy.

YOUR TELESCOPE question:

-for observing, the best scope is what use the most: it can be a pain to set up a heavy EQ mount, pol align, get power to it and lift the scope on top and balance it. A DOB with 8" or 10" aperture is much easier to set up and use, it gives bright images and the fl can be adjusted with barlows. Second best comes the SCT as it needs no collimation and has the focuser always at the same spot. The LXD75 wouldnīt be my favourite for visual as it requires collimation and the eypiece always at another position depending on the object your are observing. I have a newton myself and wouldnīt go for another eq mounted one for visual.
-if you want to become serious about astrophotography (AP) make sure you get a decent EQ mount (like the EQ6 or NEQ6) and not one of those alt/az-fork mounts as the meade SCTīs usually have, these produce field rotation.
--If you want to shoot bright extended objects - start with the ED80 and as guidescope with an autoguider and get the LXD 75.
---if you want to shoot planets go for the 10" SCT and get an off axis guider and an autoguider (and a planetary camera as a DSLR isnīt good at shooting 30-60 frames per second).

The quality of your images depends on the conditions under which you shoot (seeing, temperature, light polution), your gear and the processing skills you can apply. But the first and the last mentioned are the most important.

So, now I have written a novel and probably didnīt answer any of your questions....

Cheers
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