Astro photography software...HELP

[Carl]

Hi Folks
Just bought a Canon350 EOS DSLR and need advise re software for piggy back astro pics. My mount is not a go to so i cannot use any guiding software that links the scope and the computer, I have a good micro guiding eyepeice, do I need to get a web cam and linkk that to the computer and use Guide Dog?
I'm looking at DSLR focuser and need to get software to stack my images without breaking the bank. I will have a mid range computer in the observatory to run the software but plan to transfer images via memory stick to my main computer in the house where it's warmer to do all the stacking and processing. I have the latest version of Photoshop.

Any suggestions Please

[Striker]

Has your mount got a guide port,

You will need some kind of connection from your PC to the mount to control the correction.

If not I think all you will be bale to do is manualy guide while looking through the eyepiece Like Scott (Tornado) does.

What mount have you got.....????

[Striker]

Oh another thing.....even though you want a cheap software you cant go past Imagesplus...it will control your exposures, focus the camera, and will be used for all stacking and calibration.....it's a all in one program and really easy to use....best program I have.

This program in conjunction with photoshop is all you will ever need.
http://www.mlunsold.com/

[h0ughy]

On that note Mr Striker, what cables are required;) ?

[[1ponders]]

We all know Striker loves his ImagesPlus :poke: :P but if finances are stretched then consider IRIS (free) with Jim Solomon's how to "cookbook" for processing.

What sort of scope/mount are you using?

[JohnG]

ImagesPlus is now in a Beta 3 testing stage for the new version, Beta 4 is apparently due out next week, one of the improvements is a similar type live focusing to DSLRFocus.

As far as cables are concerned, have a look here:

http://www.store.shoestringastronomy.com/index.htm

I use the DSUSB with the following cables DSCBL-01 and 03, I also have a longer standard USB cable as well, available from Hap Griffith. This is for a 350D only, the 20Da has a different adapter.

JohnG :thumbsup:

[Striker]

I am using the same as JohnG....copycat...lol

Works perfectly.

Even though you can focus in Imagesplus like John has mentioned I still do use DSLR Focus for both Focusing and controlling all my exposures.

hahaha Paul yes I do love the automatic feature in Imagesplus2.75...come on you cant get any easier then that...you dont even have to convert the raws...just throw all your images, Darks, Flats and bias frames into the auto calibration feature and push process....shazam......ready to be aligned and stacked.

IRIS is said to be a great freeware program I just cant work it out....I like to keep things simple.

I should be on commission with Imagesplus...lol

Good luck....

[Carl]

THanks guys
In reply to Tony's question I have a cg5 mount (very Smooth) and the scope is a Celestron 8"CST.
On the subject of software I'm dragging out my old computer from the shed to use in the observatory. It will of coure need to be rebuilt to handle the software. What specs are needed for something like image plus as i cant find anything on the website. Do I need some huge grunt of a machine or will the average cpu handle it. remembering that i will do all the processing on my main computer in the house.

Carl

[Striker]

Carl it's on Imagesplus web site: but these requirements are for processing....just basic functions would not need a powerful machine.

System Requirements for processing a group of 50 or more 4064 x 2704 16-bit color TIFF, FITS, or larger images.
Any 32 bit Windows operating system. Windows 2000 or XP Professional preferred.
Screen resolution of at least 1024x768 is recommended
Minimum of 256-512 MB of RAM
Pentium 4 processor
Mouse is required
True color (24 bit) or better

[JohnG]

The only thing I would add to what Tony said is that if you can get a USB 2.0 PCI card and add it to your old computer it will make downloading the Focus and RAW images a lot quicker. The 350D thrives on USB 2.0.

JohnG

[JohnG]

Just in case you haven't done it, make sure your 350D is set to PC in Communication in Menu 3, it won't talk to your computer if it isn't. :D

JohnG

[Carl]

Thanks folks
I'm on to it. On another question Is there anywher I might find some exposure guides for shooting the moon on my Canon eos DSLR
Regards Carl

[JohnG]

Try here:

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/astro/astrosoft.html

http://www.newastro.com/newastro/book_new/camera_app.asp

It is for CCD camera's but there is also a 35mm option, use that and bracket your shots.

Cheers

JohnG

[Striker]

Just trial and error...shooting the moon being so bright will mean your exposures will be very short...just try them and if it's to bright drop down the exposure length....but start with very short exposures...at a guess 1/500th sec.

[Carl]

Question Regarding DSLRfocus
I know it sounds dumb but I cant get a reply from the DSLRfocus site.
I know the software dos'nt stack and process but does it capture the exposures so you can transfer to another program for processing.
Also has anyone used photoshop for stacking astro images. I'm a graphic Designer and can use photoshop well, someone mentioned that Photoshop wasnt a bad option.

Carl

[Striker]

Dont know about stacking with photoshop but I dont have a clue...maybe.

DSLR focus just controls your exposures...you select where the image goes to on your hard drive...it does not stay in the program itself....so yes you nominate a directory.

[[1ponders]]

Hi Carl. I don't know where Chris Venter is. There have been a few comments onsite over the past couple of months about him not being around and tied up with other projects. Not a good way to run a business though.

DSLR can do all your capturing automatically for you, np.

You can stack using Photoshop. My old technique used to be open all the images to be stacked, using one as the background, using each of the other images as seperate layers. Layer 1 set to 50% opacity, layer 2 to 33% opacity, Layer 3 to 25%, layer 4 to 20% etc.

As each layer is added set you blending to "difference" to help line the images up. Once the new layer is lined up set it back to "normal". When you add subsequent layers make sure you turn off the layers underneath so you are only aligning new layers with the original background image.

Once you have finished stacking (and made all the layer visible again), save the stacked image as a PSD file. I then normally flatten the image, save as TIFF/bmps as you want (tiffs if the originals are 16 bit) and level and curves to your hearts content then. (You can muck around a bit with the curves and levels before flattening if you want, but I normally wait until I've flattened the image. Depend on what look you are trying to achieve I guess.)

It does a reasonable job, you can even subtract darks using the same processes. Just apply your master dark (created using the above processes) to each light frame before stacking. If that doesn't look any good after stacking, stack your images first and then apply the master dark. There can be a bit of mucking around to find the technique that works for you.

PS will never be able to do the job dedicated astroprocessing programs (imagesplus, iris etc) will do, but it can certainly do the job if you have nothing else.