How To : Making a firmware update cable for your SynScan the easy way

[AlexP]

Hi guys,

I recently bought a second hand EQ6 Pro which came with a SynScan Handset but not with the RJ11 firmware update cable. Being the computer nerd I am, I wanted to upgrade the synscan to the latest firmware version.

It wasn't as straightforward as I hoped, so I made this little guide because I know other people have SynScan Handsets also and might run into the same problems as I did.

Problems I encountered :
1) How do I upgrade the firmware ?
Answer : Upgrade process explained below
2) I read the firmware upgrade manual, it says I need a powersupply of 7~15v and 100mA of DC current to power my handset while I upgrade it. My power supply for my EQ6 Pro mount is 12V 2A. So, will I need a new powersupply just to upgrade my firmware ? I looked on google, and couldn't find it, eventually I just plugged the 12V 2A into the handset, hoping it wouldn't blow up.
Answer : You can simply use the 12V 2A power supply that normally would power your mount and directly plug that adapted into your Hand Controller.
3) Ok, the Hand Controller started up, it beeped, how do I connect it to my computer to upgrade the firmware ?
Answer : You need a USB to COM port cable ( most modern computer don't come with COM ports anymore ) or a very old computer with COM port ( labelled COM1 or COM2 ).
4) Ok, I have a USB to COM port cable, but it doesn't fit my Hand Controller ?
Answer : No, you need yet another cable for this. If it's not included with the SynScan, you will need to manually create it. It's a RJ11 to RS323 cable. I will explain below how to make one.

How to upgrade the firmware :
===================
Ok, so , first we need a USB to COM port cable. I have tried many different USB to COM port cables over the last few years, and only one works reliably all the time. Trust me on this one, spend the extra 10 dollars and get a GOOD cable. The one you want should use the FTDI chip. ( http://www.ftdichip.com/ ). Here is an example of the cable I use : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/USB4RADIOS-USB-Serial-RS232-Adaptor-FTDI-US232R-10-/280739634961?pt=AU_Components&hash=item415d62df11
The FTDI cable should be mostly white, with a blue part. This cable works reliably, always works, and will always work. Don't get cheap stuff.

When you receive your FTDI adapter, you will realize that you only solved half the problem. You still need another cable : The RJ11-DB9 cable which you can make yourself quite easily.

While you're buying your FTDI cable on ebay, you should also buy a Cisco Rollover cable. They're cheap, only a few dollars on ebay. This is an example : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-5FT-Cisco-Blue-Console-Rollover-Cable-DB9-RJ45-/130573227721?pt=UK_Computing_Laptop _Accessories_LaptopCables_Connector s&hash=item1e66c556c9 It's 3 dollars, free shipping :) Get the CABLE, not the short thing, you will need the cable.

You also need an RJ11 crimping tool : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RJ45-RJ11-NETWORK-CABLE-CRIMP-CRIMPER-CRIMPING-TOOL-/270581791542?pt=UK_Computing_Networ kingTools_Accessories_SM&hash=item3effee7b36

And some RJ11 phone plugs. You can get those from your local jaycar, they're really cheap. You can also get your RJ11 crimping tool from them if you want.

So, when you have all that , it's time to start. Cut the 8-pin plug from the cable with some side cutters. Now, cut a millimeter off the WIDTH of each cable for about 1 CM in LENGTH of the cable. This will allow you to strip the blue plastic off the cable and expose the internal wires. You want to cut all the cables EXCEPT red, green and yellow. The rest of the internal cables should all be shortened so that they almost disappear into the blue sheath cable.

Now get the RJ11 modular plug, and face the flat side towards you. You should see the flat side of the little copper pins now. The opening should face downwards, and you should have a little clip on the back of the plug.

Now comes the tricky bit. You might need a magnifying glass for this part if your eyes aren't very good. Push the cable into the modular plug so that :
red = pin 2
yellow = pin 3
green = pin 5

pin 2 is the second pin from the left, as you are holding the plus upright. pin 5 is obviously the 5th pin.

The little internal wires should only be about 7mm long and the blue sheath should go as far into ( inside ) the plug as possible.

This is a good moment to check the picture attached below. Make sure it looks the same !

When you're sure it's fitted in right, put the plug in the crimping tool, and crimp it a few times. Just hammer it until you're sure the plug understood you meant business when you crimped it.

Now, read the firmware upgrade manual, and follow the instructions. Your COM port is probably COM3, but just use Auto-detect. Make sure you installed the drivers for your FTDI chip, you can download them here : http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm

You need the VCP drivers.

Good luck !

[GeoffW1]

Hi,

The latest version is worth having too, as it fixes the bug where the 4 slewing buttons stop responding after you have used the SAO catalogue.

Cheers

[g__day]

The other thing you need is a multi-meter. Once you've crimpted your ends - check their resistance. If it isn't right (way too high) - your fancy cable won't give you any joy!

I like two other pieces of gear too - the first is a serial to parallel overcharge (earthed) connector and the second is a breakout box.

You use the first if your gear is set up in regions where you might get near lightning strikes or big current spikes. Service stations often use them between the petrol pumps and cash registers - they cost around $40.

http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=ps9-dce&tab=features

A breakout box is very handy if any of your gear requires non standard cabling. For example my SS2K doesn't support ST4 auto guiding pin outs. So I wire a normal 6 pin cable for its full length per ST4 design and plug it into a breaout box. The breakout box *around $8) allows me to rewite cables any way I like simply, then I connect a normal 6 pin cable from the breakout box to the hand controller.

As a last hint - if you ever have to wire anything - up to 8 wires - where you need a lonng, tough yet flexible cable - simply use old network cable. CAT 5 (blu network cable) is amazingly resilent. Simply cut each end off and re-connect it to the cable connectors you require at each end. Dirt cheap and super resilent.

Oh another hint - many modern motherboards do in fact have a COM1 (or 2) port on the motherboard itself - if not the backpane. You simply need a IDC 10 to DB9 connector to present a standard serial connector on the back of your PC. An PC shop may have one of these in their dis-used parts bin, else buy them from the US for around $2 e.g.

http://www.amazon.com/Male-Motherboard-Serial-Connector-cable/dp/B000JC31L4

[AdrianF]

AlexP
Ooooops!
The cable is sitting on my pc desk. PM your postal address and I will send cable to you.

Adrian

[DENMONKEY]

it's been a while since this was posted but I decided to DIY one of these cables before I discovered alignmaster due to limited available stars for a PA.
I figure I'll still so this just to keep the HC up to date anyway.
Point is, I believe a 6 pin rj11 is actually designated as an rj12 plug.
rj11s are 4 pin and rj12s are the 6 pin equivalent.

Just in case anyone is following this write up (excellent by the way) and grabs a bunch of rj11s and cant make 6 go into 4 :)