LMC colour (is it an issue)

mswhin63 (Malcolm) · #1 10-02-2011, 12:17 PM

Managed to get LMC on 02-02-2011 but can't seem to get the colour right. Is there something I am doing here wrong? or do I really need to mod the camera?

http://waelect.com.au/mswhin63/Malco...y/index.html#4 - 5.23MB

renormalised (Carl) · #2 10-02-2011, 01:56 PM

If you have a stock standard camera, that's where the "problem" lies. You need to mod the camera to make it more sensitive to the red part of the spectrum. Usually means removing the IR blocking filter.

mswhin63 (Malcolm) · #3 10-02-2011, 04:33 PM

Thanks Carl, had a feeling that was my cause, it is one of my near future project but gonna have to wait till after my surgery now.

tlgerdes (Trevor) · #4 10-02-2011, 06:53 PM

You dont have problem, you are seeing just as nature intended us to see it.

mswhin63 (Malcolm) · #5 10-02-2011, 07:36 PM

Yes Trevor I suppose you are correct in that, although realistically it should be Black and White.

I am amazed though how our eyes pick up low level gas structures in real time. Wouldn't it be nice if we could switch on and off our eyes for long exposure, I am sure we would see some really fantastic images even if the exposure was for only 1 second. Most probably be less AP'ers out there.

Hagar (Doug) · #6 10-02-2011, 07:41 PM

The colour balance is not correct as you are aware of but unfortunately there isn't much you can do about the colour while using a standard DSLR. The DSLR has a slip filter in front of the CCD which does not allow much if any Ha through to the CCD. What it does allow through is a blue colour for the Hathat it manages to pass plus a lot of OIII which is often described as a teal colour (blue green). It still allows detail to be captured and while there has been a lot of discussion about correct colour it is largely irrelevant if you are happy with the detail etc you have captured.
The only real fix is to modify the camera but this renders it largely only suitable for astro work. It can still be used for normal photography but the process is dificult.

Nice image, you should be happy with that.

[1ponders] (Paul) · #7 10-02-2011, 07:44 PM

Its poor processing Malcolm but this is what you can get with a modded camera http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/a...se.php?a=89211 . Its worth doing

mswhin63 (Malcolm) · #8 10-02-2011, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hagar

The colour balance is not correct as you are aware of but unfortunately there isn't much you can do about the colour while using a standard DSLR. The DSLR has a slip filter in front of the CCD which does not allow much if any Ha through to the CCD. What it does allow through is a blue colour for the Hathat it manages to pass plus a lot of OIII which is often described as a teal colour (blue green). It still allows detail to be captured and while there has been a lot of discussion about correct colour it is largely irrelevant if you are happy with the detail etc you have captured.
The only real fix is to modify the camera but this renders it largely only suitable for astro work. It can still be used for normal photography but the process is dificult.

Nice image, you should be happy with that.

Thanks Doug, that would explain why I was having trouble processing out the excessive green. Well I am happy with the detail especially for a dull DSO and with a primitive EQ2 the stability is improving.

Quote:

Originally Posted by [1ponders]

Its poor processing Malcolm but this is what you can get with a modded camera http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/a...se.php?a=89211 . Its worth doing

I can see Red yes Ha. Fortunately I can mod the camera myself quite easily and will get around to it one day. I will most probably use the external filter for Daytime photography after modding.

In the mean time i may continue to re-process these to get some improvement.