After a very frustating early end to my imaging last night, thanks to both batteries running flat (combination of cold weather and not fully charging them before heading out), I've decided I definitely won't let that happen again.
So what do I need to get to be able to power the camera from 12v and/or 240v?
I know there's some sort of battery housing that has a wire coming out of it?? Is that for 12 or 240v?
I have the 240V adapter for the 300D and I wish I had bought it when I first bought the camera. No more flat batteries. I just wish the cable from the adapter to the camera was another 2ft longer.
I've been thinking about the 12V one Mike. It probably makes more sense seeing that we will often have numerous 240-12V adapters around that can be plugged into.
Mike I wouldn't use anything else at the scope but my trusty AC adapter with the 5D, just plug it into the 240 and it stays on permanently,
Its a pretty niffty device, and looks like a normal battery with a wire coming out of it, just put that in the camera instead of the battery and plug the other end into a little box thingy, and then straight into the power, never lets me down.
note they are not cheap but they are excellent products, i have the turbo 2x2 running a Quantum Q-flash and my 1D's off of it and am getting 350-400 shots at least..
Open your old battery up, remove the cells.
Put a small hole in the bottom of the shell for the cable.
Solder the wires in, + and - to the terminals (Use a multimeter to check which is + and - before you remove the cells) and a plug on the other end. Glue the shell together again.
Get a small metal jiffy box and mount a LM7808 regulator inside.
Run a 9V 1.5 A plugpack into it via a socket, run the LM7808 output to another socket (Both fitted on the jiffy box).
Add a fuse, couple of 4000uf caps inside the jiffy box, and thats that.
I have been using this adapter for 2 years now, and not one problem.
Cost me $15.00 plus $9.00 for the cost of the battery.
Plugpack i already had.
Original Battery voltage is 7.2 , the 8V regulator less a small drop over the length or wires will be very close if not dead on this voltage.
Of course, if your in the field, then a SLA battery will do in place of the plug pack
Do what Gama said, or if you don't want to/can't make it yourself buy one from these guy's... http://centralds.net/en/
I bought one from there on hOughy's recommendation I think it was, when I asked in the forum a month or 2 ago. It works like a dream, no more battery problems!
I have mine running from my 40 amphr SLA, 240v was no use to me.
Roger.
PS. The bought version is MUCH more expensive than the DIY version, so if you can do it yourself, you'll save yourself a serious packet of money.
Do what Gama said, or if you don't want to/can't make it yourself buy one from these guy's... http://centralds.net/en/
I bought one from there on hOughy's recommendation I think it was, when I asked in the forum a month or 2 ago. It works like a dream, no more battery problems!
I have mine running from my 40 amphr SLA, 240v was no use to me.
Roger.
PS. The bought version is MUCH more expensive than the DIY version, so if you can do it yourself, you'll save yourself a serious packet of money.
That is true Roger, but for a complete git like me who couldnt solder to save his life it was the most ecomonical method of obtaining a result. Saying that I think what we have is a good product, suits me down to the ground.
Get this circuit built into a jiffy box and attach to an old battery's terminals (with cells removed) as Gama suggests. This will power your 350D from a 12V DC source.
Make sure you use a heatsink. The regulator will get quite warm.
That is true Roger, but for a complete git like me who couldnt solder to save his life it was the most ecomonical method of obtaining a result. Saying that I think what we have is a good product, suits me down to the ground.
Agreed, even though I can solder I didn't want to risk my rookie skills with my 350D And yes, what we have is a good professional product - solid build and I have complete confidence in it. For me it was worth the money.
Roger could not find any information on your link about the power pack or any pricing information on it. Could you please link to this or advise what the cost is for there unit.
Also I am guessing by the way these units and the ones people have diy'ed are designed that the power jack on the camera is AC not DC? Is this correct? I assumed the camera accepted DC voltage from the power jack, why design the AC to DC circuit to be inside the camera?
Another solution for powering the Canon is a long life battery. i got a 4800mh battery with my 400D (optionally, while in singapore). it's been ok so far (2 sessions only)
Another solution for powering the Canon is a long life battery. i got a 4800mh battery with my 400D (optionally, while in singapore). it's been ok so far (2 sessions only)
High capacity batteries worked ok for me until they got cold. I found my 1200mAh batteries would last for one shot at best, and after 2 nights of constant drain & recharge like that, half them died permanently.
hmm thanks Fahim. I bet that AC adapter has a US plug though. I contacted the guy at Hutech about the combined 12V/240V AC adapter, and in that case the AC adapter had the US wall outlet. I guess you'd also need to factor in another adapter to convert it to the AU 3-plug.
No it doesn't Davo. Not if it is anything like the 300D. There is a little space under the battery hatch that you can run the lead out and be able to shut the hatch.
Not wanting to highjack Mikes 350D thread, BUT, if anyone comes across a 12V one for a 300D I'd be interested.