I gave the RASA a run last night and still sorting things .but actually got to use the EAF working via the hand controller which suited my lay out..next is to work out computer control but I like to play with things manually to get to know a unit. I had it plugged into the laptop but did not have time to look into nto control via laptop.
I ran 30 sec no gain with Lum filter and it seemed ok.
I also did some 15 second subs at 100 gain as for various reasons I want to go the short exposure route..I find it has many advantages ...like a cloud that you cant see degrading a corner..you notice if you have two thirty sec subs but not in a one minute shot..at 15 seconds the effect will produce sharper subs again...at least that is the trip that I am on....of concern is my stars were a little oval perhaps due to focus or tilt or maybe the filter didnt seat..things to keep you active...and I did flats ..the light tablet was far too bright which I expected but my cut up sheets stuff is still waiting to be washed by my carer/ x and finally I used an old dirty sheet..and darks..but stacked it was terrible but I realised I did not look at the histogram..but it probably is something else..I was holding it by hand which is asking for trouble.
Anyays no fighting Dragons in HA as I still have much to do ..I still need to move the filter draw next to the camera...this scope is not a plug and play and selling it without cable management to the camera is like selling a car without a windscreen.
So this scope is all about testing my skills and patience..and photos??? I am beginning to wonder.
Alex,
Definitely capture your images as fits files
I use the EAF focuser with the handcontrolleron all my set ups , I’ve tried the focus aid tool in APT and so damn time consuming, I just take 15sec exposures in APT and just adjust my focus until the diffraction spikes on my focus Star ( 2.0 to 2.5 magnitude ) are super thin and sharp, never had an out of focus image in years
It’s best to use your capture software with PHD2 ( in my case APT ) takes the guess work away and gives you full control over your dithering.You can set number of pixels , how often to dither , delay time, dither settle time etc…
For Flats using the Huion led light panel you have to use a white T shirt ( white t shirts are the best as they are fine cotton and stretch really smooth over the OTA. Also I bought some black cardboard from Office Works , cut a hole slightly larger than the OTA aperture and taped it to the light panel with duct tape around the frame. This stops any stray light hitting the focuser and camera etc..,
Also I use a shower cap sprayed Matt black to fit over the back end of the newt to stop any stray light as well
My flats with the 2600MC are usually 0.5 sec exposures for broadband RGB and 5 to 7 sec exposures for Narrowband ( L Extreme filter ) My Capture software APT has the Flats Aid which works well and easy to use
Thank you very much gentlemen.
I thought fits were probably the go.
I think my white surface will need to be very dim as there is a great deal of surface to reflect off..the corrector plate, the mirror ...but probably the camera has the greatest potential for mischief.
I had hoped for something simple for dithering like an upgrade of firmware for the hand box that would add a dither feature..
Thanks again I am in a rush but will go thru the materia laterl and work out what to do.
Alex, I have always used SGP for capture workflow managenent, and have No complaints. There are tools that allow you to view Fits files, have a look at Fits Liberator.
FITS Image Grader, is a nice tool for running through and quality ranking of a folder full of FITS files.
I use Astap to review my fits subs manually ( slow but sure )
I usually zoom in 100 to 150% to check Star shape in the corners and central region
Then zoom out to normal frame view to check passing clouds , aircraft trails , satellite trails etc..
The histogram settings are very intuitive and responsive
Alex, I have always used SGP for capture workflow managenent, and have No complaints. There are tools that allow you to view Fits files, have a look at Fits Liberator.
FITS Image Grader, is a nice tool for running through and quality ranking of a folder full of FITS files.
I use Astap to review my fits subs manually ( slow but sure )
I usually zoom in 100 to 150% to check Star shape in the corners and central region
Then zoom out to normal frame view to check passing clouds , aircraft trails , satellite trails etc..
The histogram settings are very intuitive and responsive
Cheers
Martin
Thanks Martin.
I have identified the cause of the oval star shapes..the camera etc was not tightened down..I meant to put some boot polish on the threads and had left it slack...and remembered that after I had tightened everything tonight...I got excited knowing that I had found the problem....there is still something a little off but I wont panic until I fix everything and fixing tilt does not worry me ..I will pull it apart tomorrow and boot polish where appropriate...so a step forward..I took about 100 at 30 seconds at zero gain ( of ETA) and staking them now to see how things look...no flats as I have to get a T shirt or tshirts..all mine are black..'
the batinov mask I have does not work but I can focus by blowing up the field and picking a big star and a little star very close and to see each focus has to be just right..I am getting used to it ..why the mask does not work is beyond me..my mask for the 8 inch seems to work but I was hand holding it so I will make something to hold it and give it a fait trial.
So as usual I get everything running and come up to the van for some coffee etc and of course finish that ready to go down and change the filter and it has clouded over and the dew is horrific...so good because it means I can shut things down and watch youtube...make the best of it...however I am getting things done..baby steps but heck I really did not think I would be around so.....very happy dew and all.
Thank again to everyone...I know that without the help I get here I would not be able to do a thing ...
75 subs 30 sec. zero gain luminance...huge crop so you can see the stars are still oval..however i could live with it if I had to and Startoools could probably cure it.
Well applied the boot polish and bedded everything down but stars are still not as I would like. So I will do a run with high iso and go thru the filters to have subs to look at...before I panic I need a mask that works...however I think my stars in the centre are well focused and on the edges not so good...so I am going to ignore that problem and just have some fun.
Two T shirts have been ordered so when they are here I can see what needs to be done to do flats with this rig.
I may wait until I sort the filter draw position and get it close to the camera before I start trying to adjust tilt...that looks like fun given the placement of the screws...it is a nice night but I bet I only get another half hour as I just made a coffee and thats when the clouds come...
Alex
For examining files the FITS image grader is not a bad start, but I always have a manual look at all images too and often discard more based on my own subjective analysis. I normally do that in Astro Pixel Processor, whatever stacking software you are going to use is probably the ticket as you can generally auto stretch files and get a decent look at them.
How are you controlling the mount and capture? Under EQMOD I think you can make a manual dither request for unguided dithers, you just need to give the mount a time to settle down before taking the next image. If the dither takes the mount east for instance, it is likely to stop moving for a moment before any RA backlash is taken up and the mount starts moving again.
I do have to ask - why do you put boot polish on the screw threads? I can't work out whether it's acting as a thread-lock, a thread anti-seize, or just to blacken any shiny bits...
Bummer about the clouds rolling in and stopping play. Hopefully they will roll away again and we can all get back to imaging and observing.
For examining files the FITS image grader is not a bad start, but I always have a manual look at all images too and often discard more based on my own subjective analysis. I normally do that in Astro Pixel Processor, whatever stacking software you are going to use is probably the ticket as you can generally auto stretch files and get a decent look at them.
How are you controlling the mount and capture? Under EQMOD I think you can make a manual dither request for unguided dithers, you just need to give the mount a time to settle down before taking the next image. If the dither takes the mount east for instance, it is likely to stop moving for a moment before any RA backlash is taken up and the mount starts moving again.
Thanks..nothing is set in cement at the moment..I use sharpcap and just the hand box shortly will control by lap top..thinking about it I will add a auto guide set up, its just that I ordered a camera and it has not arrived yet..I will have two scopes sharing something which I wanted to avoid...
I do have to ask - why do you put boot polish on the screw threads? I can't work out whether it's acting as a thread-lock, a thread anti-seize, or just to blacken any shiny bits...
Bummer about the clouds rolling in and stopping play. Hopefully they will roll away again and we can all get back to imaging and observing.
Cheers,
V
Honestly they must have come over as soon as I came in as I just threw out 70...however its clear again and getting something.
The boot polish is for lubrication... It is a secret so dont tell anyone...a member here shared the idea...I am trying to head off getting two things stuck.
Alex
Well another case of work with what you have..so I have L,ha,s,o ruff as PGN format no darks flats high gain and dubious focusing .... So I will do a really fast process and see how it went..closed up just as the Moon was coming up not that was why I quit...I am old and I figure to try and not over do it....well there was cloud coming in...but the idea getting the RASA was to get to bed earlier.
I will place my result in a new thread fir opinions.
