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Old 19-10-2024, 03:03 PM
Leo.G (Leo)
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A3 Light Boards (Pad)

Aldi currently have the A3 light pads in stock at $40 (near enough).
On smaller telescopes these are great for doing light frames and a lot of people have used them for this purpose. You can tilt the telescope skyward and sit the light board on top and smaller telescopes and camera rigs you can simply stand them directly on the light pad indoors to get good even lighting for light frames. Easier and I've found them to be more uniform lighting than a t-shirt and torch.
The unit comes with a 220V power supply with USB-C cable connected. To use externally a standard portable power bank with a USB-C cable (not supplied) will work fine and the latest iteration appears to be better made than the much older identical branded item I already own. The unit has no internal batteries.



I did see mention from a fellow member they weren't so good on larger telescopes, maybe faster f units, I don't remember but the things work fine up to my 8" Newt and RC. They may fit on a 10" tube I don't have a 10" telescope to try.


Quote:
The dimensions of A3+ size is 32.9 x 48.3 cm or 329 x 483 mm or 12.9 x 19 inches.

Last edited by Leo.G; 19-10-2024 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 21-10-2024, 07:41 AM
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Crater101 (Warren)
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Great timing! My old pad that I used for this has just about had it. Many thanks for the heads-up mate!
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Old 21-10-2024, 08:28 AM
By.Jove (Jove)
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I bought one from Amazon. I found it was a bit bright, but realized the light through the back of it is dimmer, which worked OK.
Hasn't seen much use with the lousy weather in Sydney. Looking for a job somewhere with better weather.
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Old 21-10-2024, 11:52 AM
Leo.G (Leo)
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I'm still in the process of gathering bits and pieces to build a laser cutter to make light boards to highlight various parts of some of my 16x 20" canvas prints, particularly my fire in a tin shots I've had printed on canvas.
I've only got to get rails and stepper motors and electronics mostly, one day, then to weld a frame up.
My grass is up to my waist in the back yard and I don't get to it....
I will use the light board I just bought with some darkening in patches for the purpose till I get to building the cutter.
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Old 21-10-2024, 12:32 PM
Dave882 (David)
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That’s a pretty good price at Aldi. I needed something bigger and ended up getting a circular one of Amazon a few years back for the c14. Was able to match the internal dimensions of my front scope cap/cover so with some double sided tape it is permanently ready to go. Nice and easy…
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Old 21-10-2024, 12:54 PM
Startrek (Martin)
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Gee that’s really cheap for a dimmable A3 light pad
I’m wondering if it oscillates at very low dimmed light levels like some of the cheaper Chinese ones do
I bought my Huion A3 ( 8” Newt ) and Huion A2 ( 10” Newt ) dimmable light pads years ago for around $100 and $150 respectively.
The Huion light pads work really good but unfortunately have no calibrated steps on the dimmer so it’s a bit of fluffing around finding the most appropriate lumen output when capturing flats. After a while you get the hang of it where the setting should be.
The fancy Astro light pads like Pegasus are ridiculously expensive
Thanks for posting
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Old 21-10-2024, 04:51 PM
Leo.G (Leo)
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I haven't noticed any oscillation Martin but I could hook up a sensor and an oscilloscope later.
Failing that, I'm sure the grandchildren would love it were it not suitable for the purposes.
I've primarily used my old one on a 152mm refractor SkyWatcher Achro and 8" GSO f5 Newt. I've also sat my 14mm Rokinon lens on it with the D810 when I'm doing Milky Way panoramas.


A little tip, I leave the self adhesive plastic covering which came on the item new on it until I want to use the light pad, then I remove only as much as necessary, double check the surface then pull it back over after every use and I've not had problems with dust or cat hairs (I have cats).


I've seen the prices at other artsy type stores and the A3 units are far from cheap (I'm broke not cheap), the Aldi units are great for the money and my old one would have to be over 5 years old and still like new. It goes back in it's original box after every use.
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Old 21-10-2024, 09:09 PM
Startrek (Martin)
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In regards to my Flats and illumination levels , it’s only the Luminance filter and Oiii filter that require 10 to 15% illumination or lowish level illumination. The Red , Green ,Blue , Ha and Sii filters are up around 50% to 75% illumination levels to achieve the target ADU at appropriate exposure times
I’m sure the Aldi Light pad would work out fine if I ever need a new light pad.
With my Huion light pads , I bought a piece of black cardboard from Office works , cut a hole in the centre 10mm wider in diameter than the end of my Newt and taped it on the light pad. That way the light is directed straight into OTA with minimal light spill and the light pad doesn’t annoy the neighbours in the early hours ( even though they annoy me up to midnight with ridiculous exterior backyard lighting leaving my backyard looking like Las Vegas in the suburbs ).

Cheers
Martin
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Old 21-10-2024, 10:11 PM
Leo.G (Leo)
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I've primarily used DSLR's, an old Nikon D80 in the past and my D810 more recently.I have no experience with filters and no knowledge on their use.
Prior to the DSLR's it was my Nikon F601 and Nikon F801.
I now have a Player One Neptune C purchased used from a fellow member but haven't had the health, weather or opportunity to really play with it as of yet. I'm hoping very soon.


The black cardboard sounds like a very good idea, I haven't even considered light leak but I'm sure my imaging is nowhere near as professional quality images others here capture. They are good enough for me to like them, I don't have any high end equipment, no APO. But again, purchased here used, a very nice RC8 GSO carbon for around 1/3rd of new price, used only 3 times with some extras thrown in.
Again, I mention this a lot, not tight, broke, the end result of being forced onto disability at only 31 years of age. Now 64.
How did I not go crazy coming from a high paying managerial position?
I think I did!
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Old 22-10-2024, 04:23 PM
gb44 (Glenn)
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A3

Thanks for the tip Leo. I got one so I can replace the bulky lightbox I,ve made years ago.

It works well for my 12inch Meade. I was easily able to get the right histogram in SharpCap and the APT flat aids routine went smoothly.

I have one area of concern. The white balance is very different from my previous light box where G was dominant. This pad gives a B dominant histogram.

I can adjust the WB balance in SharpCap but not in APT. I dont know if I need to adjust the WB either. WHat do I do?

TIA
GlennB
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Old 22-10-2024, 07:09 PM
Leo.G (Leo)
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I'm sorry Glenn this is beyond my knowledge, I haven't played with APT but I'm sure Martin and others will most likely know the answer and have more experience as they work with higher level equipment and software than I do.
The majority of my stuff in the past has been done with DSLR's and a Philips SPC900 webcam.


When it comes to white balance I mostly leave at as set because I'm colour blind. Mine would always come out blue.
Yet back in 81 at National TV's (Panasonic-Matsush!ta electric copmpany in Penrith (NSW) my primary job when I started there was setting the white balance and convergence on TV sets on a production line and I got it right then (more luck than skill).
Every one of my images ends up with a blue/purple hue after processing till I get my son to go through and check it with his exceptional vision and colour recognition.


EDIT:
Glenn could that be more of a colour temperature thing rather than WB with LED lighting from the board?
I'm unfamiliar with APT and not well enough tonight to have a play but as mentioned, maybe someone with more knowledge can help you sort it out.

Last edited by Leo.G; 22-10-2024 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 23-10-2024, 10:54 AM
Startrek (Martin)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gb44 View Post
Thanks for the tip Leo. I got one so I can replace the bulky lightbox I,ve made years ago.

It works well for my 12inch Meade. I was easily able to get the right histogram in SharpCap and the APT flat aids routine went smoothly.

I have one area of concern. The white balance is very different from my previous light box where G was dominant. This pad gives a B dominant histogram.

I can adjust the WB balance in SharpCap but not in APT. I dont know if I need to adjust the WB either. WHat do I do?

TIA
GlennB
Glenn,
I’m assuming you’re using a OSC camera to take Flats with the new LED light pad ?
Don’t worry too much about colour balance or white balance as all LED panels emit different wavelengths of colour depending on the configuration, the coatings on the RGB leds and the driver that’s controlling them, some more towards the blue spectrum and some more towards the red spectrum.

Ideally you want an LED light panel with a colour temperature around 6500K to 8000K so in essence Daylight. Also a colour rendering index (CRI) of at least 80 to 90 to ensure an even spread of light source.

As long as you expose your Flats long enough so your 3 peaks are off the left side of the Histogram and right side towards 1/2 way then you should be Ok

Also take at least 20 to 40 Flats when using an LED light pad as some do oscillate ( flicker ) at low brightness levels due to Pulse Width Modulation control. When stacked any minor banding will be eliminated even at short exposures of 0.1 sec. This slight flicker or oscillation cannot be picked up by the human eye.

I found that another layer of opal acrylic diffusers taped to the light pad worked much better than a white T shirt for diffusing the light slightly especially at when you require lower brightness levels.

Your stacking software should take care of the background, I know DSS and ASTAP does it automatically for you. I suspect APP , Pi also takes care of your background as well.

I use APT ( CCD Flats Aid ) to take Flats with my ZWO 2600 series cameras
For my OSC 2600MC camera
Broadband ie: only with internal UV/IR cut window my Target ADU is set to say 20,000 which generally gives me a Histogram range ( 3 peaks ) of 8000 to 33,000 at an exposure of between 0.15 sec and 0.9 sec. I just adjust either brightness on the light pad or adjust target ADU or both to achieve this result.

Narrowband ie: L Extreme or Antlia ALPT dualband filter again my Target ADU is set to 20,000 which generally gives me a Histogram range ( 3 peaks ) of 8000 to 33,000 at an exposure of between 2 sec and 5 sec. I adjust either brightness on the light pad or adjust target ADU or both to achieve this result.

For my Mono camera 2600MM I stick to the above scenario but the Target ADU’s and brightness levels on the pad differ greatly from filter to filter to achieve similar results. Target ADU’s can be from say 18,000 to 26,000 depending on filter
I still try to achieve flats exposure times of 0.15 sec to 0.9 sec for Luminance, Red , Green and Blue filters and flats exposure times of 2 sec to 5 sec for Ha , Oiii and Sii filters

ZWOASI2600 series cameras have a 16bit ADU which equates to ( 2 to the power of 16 = 65,536 then divide by 2 or 50% ) = 32,768 ADU which is your maximum ADU range or roughly 1/2 way along the Histogram
NB: I found that if I start with a Target ADU in APT between 20,000 and 22,000 ADU this works best for starting the search for the correct exposure times.

The above settings and results are based on the ZWO 2600 series cameras and my Newts. You have to customise settings for your particular camera.

Also all Flats for all filters have same Gain and Temperature as my Lights.

I calibrate my Flats with Flat Darks ( gold standard ) however Bias work as well and use Darks to calibrate my Lights , so full calibration suite.

I’ve used the A3 Huion and Huion A2 dimmable light pad for over 4 years now and never had an issue with Flats.

Hope the above information helps

Cheers
Martin
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Old 23-10-2024, 05:55 PM
Leo.G (Leo)
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Thanks for the information Martin. I'm unfamiliar with filter use and having to do each set of flats with the corresponding filter though just thinking about it now it makes perfect sense, as I mentioned most of my stuff has been DSLR.
I thought it may have been a colour temp thing but most of my stacking is done with Sequator or Autostakkert, DSS confuses me terribly (so does counting beyond 10 without removing my shoes and socks).
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Old 23-10-2024, 08:40 PM
gb44 (Glenn)
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flats

Yes, thanks Martin, thats reassuring as my process seems to mirror your information.

The perspex idea is useful as it could assist mounting to the scope and as protection.

Thanks
GlennB
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Old 31-10-2024, 03:39 PM
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SimmoW (SIMON)
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Thanks folks, picked one up today!
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